Tybo

Regular gas and Castrol high performance 2 stroke oil.13 years later I haven't even change the plug.

Only time I ever had a problem,Left the my auger and used someone's else's.Never again.

Out of all Use sled heads here. Who has never rode a Bravo.

In the last 25 years I've owned 3 pick ups for personal use.Put 1.5 million K's combinded,All GM's.

And the HD is running Oh so Fine!

Bad part though, was after they won the loot, they abandoned all their old "poor" friends.

Lew, Alot of the times they don't abandon their friends.What happens is you fall out of the social click.

NO morage.car payment,Education and retirement payed for(nose not being held to the grind stone).You loss the

common bonds between friends.

Traction control,Nice car. With bad fuel mileage.

Wayne. What does your truck get in fuel just running under the rev limiter.

Bought a klim parka last year.It's a great piece of equipment. Did try their glove,but couldn't talk myself into the price.

I need to solve this problem.So I'll try the klim.

Thank you every one for the help.

Paul.

The best way to show drag is a submarine.The bow is much bigger the stern.

Hand warmers paks are to hot also.

My hands can sweat in the nitrile gloves at -20.Wear them at work.

It's like I have too have more insulation in the palm to stop the heat from the warmer.

With the back side being able to breath.

I have try gore-tex in this mater,But the palms of my hand still get to hot.

Paul

 

Are you looking for a winter thin glove,or just something to protect your hands from the elements while sleding?

 

How about those machanic gloves?

Just a glove for sleding.

Have try three different types of mech gloves.Leather,synthetic and impact type.

They all get to hot on the warmer,making my hands sweat.

It's got to be very cold or raining for me to wear a heavy glove.

Eg; 100g of thinsulate or higher.

So what I need is a glove on low setting that will not make my hands sweat.

I have tried alot of different types.But all $50's or less.

I would like too find a pair to solve this problem at no expense.

Get it fixed as soon as possible.Coolent leaks can create vapor lock.

No better way to cause major damage to your engine.(MOTOR )

I stop using all other glues, and now just use gorilla glue for every thing.

I have use this to glue head liners foam to steel.

I have used it to repair a broken transducer.

I have used it to repair broken joy sticks on heavy equipment.

I have used it to repair the plastic tanks on rads.

I used it to repair my favored coffee bucket.Which goes in the dish washer.

Tom Check your Oil Right away for coolant.Very bad if it is.

Salty I Don't know what the solution will be. But I know when it will happen.

When the rich can make a ton of money from use meager peasants.Or our tax dollar pays for it,Then rich buy

it and charges use a insane amount.

Telling me the problem without a solution is stupid.

If thier is no solution, Is their really a problem.

For Any way you look at it.

OK Bernie I think I got this right.

With the E-tec.Since there is no fuel in the crank case,Even if fuel was to get by the rings on the compression stroke there would not be enough

fuel in the crank case to cause crank case detination.You would just have a foul run engine do to the lack of compression..

So the rings never wear on a 2 stroke,Letting fuel into the crank case.

Then combusting ,Blowing up the engine.Or,When the engine sits for a time.The oil decides too run out of components,Like

Wrist pins and rod bearings.

To me,It's about Safety and comfort.

Cavitation is do to physics,Not the prop.Prop design 3 blade or 9 is to help eleminate Cavitation.

When the boat is moving it is no longer in the water.This is do to fiction causing heat,Which in turn make the boat and engine run on air.

Now prop design is to decrease the amount of air that runs around the prop giving more said bite.

This is were the inconsistent torque of a 2 stroke is it's own down fall.It can't keep the said air pocket at a consistent size.Creating more

prop cavition.decreasing lift.

In long runs you will get a more constance forward motion from a 4.which in turn gives more speed.

Now in ruff water their is more air in the water then calm.

IT'S ALL ABOUT THE MATH!!!!

On deep V's is where the 4 strokes out perform 2's,With more consistent torque at high rpm's and all threw the power band.Making the 4 more efficient in ruff water.

Running in waters where the the prop is leaving the water on a consistent bases and have to get off the throttle to keep a high rate of speed and the boat going in the right derection . with the consistent torque of the 4.The prop will grab the next wave harder give more thrust.With a 2 you have to keep a higher rate of rpm's to adcheve the same rate of speed.Making it more difficult in keeping the same rate of consistency as a 4.When the prop re-enter the water.The more snappy torque from a 2 tends to give more prop slip when getting back on the throttle.

Which in turn decreases lift.Dropping the boat farther into the water causing more drag.

Now, If I was going too propelle myself down the lake on calmer water.I would go 2 stroke.

No I wouldn't.I would start burning alchol and see what happens.

200hp at the prop,is 200hp at the prop.

What are you putting it on? Cause if your looking for performance the verado wont touch the etec. Fuel economy is about a wash and the etec uses very little oil. Like guys said you need your dealer close.

I'm not sure what this means.I can't see how a super charged engine will not preform as good or better then a two stroke.

I have a 200,4 cylinder verado on a 19' lund pro V.With 15 gallons of fuel and myself.It will almost launch the boat out of the water.

It is so good on fuel,That I had to keep tapping on the gauge to make sure it was working.

If I went back to a 2 stroke,I stay with a merc.

In the world of outboard drag racing.Merc is still number one.

starter relay.

What I would do,would be to use aluminum round stock for risers cut too length and drill and tap.Using stainless machine screw and washers

for fastening.And just a touch of thread lock.

Great solve on the problem,But not to keen on the way you bolted throw the plastic.

You have taken away the flex points and made them hard point.You need to cover more area around the nuts.

eg: If you drop it you could drive the unit threw the base.

Large flat washer and a plastic flat washer for shock absorbent.

Need to get the ny-loks threw farther.Once the cold gets to them,they will come loss.