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jedimaster

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Posts posted by jedimaster

  1. so if you don't think a first round victory over the top seed team is "success", what would you deem a team that hasn't made the playoffs since the lockout?

     

    I don't think any leafs fan is happy with the way things have gone. The leafs have been horrible, and so has the burke rebuild. We don't settle for mediocre like sens fans. Calling for a parade because they squeeked into the playoffs in 8th spot. Success is a cup and nothing short. Progress can be made along the way. But I guess if your team has neve won a cup you need to take any amount of progress and call it success.

  2. Something the laffs will never experience!

     

    Hockey circles are saying the Sens(PRAISE ALFIE) have a very good chance of upsetting the Rangers!

     

    With their head to head record, they just might!

     

    But you'll miss it when watching golf

     

     

    Is that the circular lovin with the 5 seniorita fans in Kanata?

  3. Thats not going to happen. Besides what would that do to improve things? The only appology I need to hear is Schnieder in Blue and White in the fall, along with drafting one of the two top center prospects, and picking up a centerman in the off season. I don't know who though. The UFA list for center's is weak this year. And we know burke won't pick up any offer sheet rfa's...

    Eitherway, its glaringly obvious what the leafs need.

  4. 30-30 was what I was looking at. Will also be picking up a side by side for goose and duck. I've done my homework seems like the right gun for me I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. I have zero interest in bear. Elk and moose in a few years maybe. Will "have" to buy a new gun later aww shucks.

     

    Don't count out being able to afford an over under. I just bought a Stoeger Condor outback, and its very nice for the price, mind you I already have a sxs as well.

  5. I am a 30-06 kinda guy.. but the 270, 30-06, 243, 308, 7mm, 30-30, 32 spec will all take down deer at respectable ranges in ontario. That list probbaly covers 90 percent of the centerfires used in ontario for deer.

    30-30's are fun guns, and if you want one you will nede ber happy until you have one. Get it and don't look back. Plus it can be your "Deer" gun, then you can get a 30-06 "Moose" gun, and a 243 "yote" gun, and a 12 gauge 3.5" pump for turkey, and a 12 gauge semi for goose and a 16 gauge for small birds and a....

  6. It varies between motors, my friends evinrude, runs fine at like 6 psi. Best thing is to look up your motor specs. screamandfly is a great resource as is bassboatcentral. Most guys plug the top hole at least and run the motor up high enough to just barely not lose water presure. I mean your not gonna break and speed records, but you should be able to get into the low 50's. The real serious guys get into streamlining there lower unit with a nose cone and a waterpickup a the bottom of the lower unit instead of on the top.

     

    Losing weight, moving the weight to the back all helps with top end. Moving the oil tank to the back, gas tanks, batteries etc... thats all to squeeze out an extra mph here an extra 1/2 mph there. Just try and follow the basics of boat performance. I'll try and offer whatever info I can but I think I have pretty much exhausted my brain power. :)

    Oh yah, a big piece of advice when tweaking boats. Make one change at a time and test. What works on one boat may not work on another, if you make two changes you could get a 2 percent bonus with one and a 3 percent negative with the other and see a 1 percent loss but you actually could have gone up 2 percent.

  7. Yep, get a water pressure gauge. When tuning a boat you want to run the motor as high as possible so that you don't lose water presure, and can still get out of the hole. Alot of guys will plug the upper water intake holes so they don't lose water presure. This is because you will get less drag from the lower unit being in the water,

    As for wedging the motor, thats more if you need help getting out of the hole. But to wedge it you can just insert some washers between the jack plate and motor mounton the bolts. On the bottom if you need more bow lift, on the top if you need less. You can also buy wedges that do the same thing.

     

    If you are porpoising when your running WOT (WIDE OPEN THROTTLE) then you have too much trim. You can basically run wide open, then trim up til it porpoises, then back it down a bit til it stops and tip up a bit more. Thats as high out of the water your can run.

     

    Try and get the motor up high but DO NOT do it unless you have a water pressure guage. A water pressure gauge is manditory when using jack plates.

    I used to run a 12 inch jack plate on my 15 foot stratus and it made a huge difference in top speed stability.

     

    If you have everything setup as well as you can and you still can't get to top rpms, you can try lowering the prop pitch by a degree. As was mentioned above you want your motor to max out rpm's so your motor isn't lugging. If you go too high in pitch you either won't get out of the water, or you don't have enough hp to push that much water.

     

    There are some little things you can do like, getting a slightly smaller diameter prop, closing the prop vents(top end), adding vents(hole shot), move any weight as low as possible and as far back in the boat as possible. get a lighter trolling motor etc... there are alot of things you can do. It could be you have too much prop or just the wrong prop. Some boats run better with a lower pitch 4 or 5 blade. It depends if you need bow lift or transom lift. The cup a prop has can also make a difference.

  8. Are you ventilating at all? Losing water pressure? Chine walking? Are you even full up on the pad? Need a lot more details to help you out. The only thing about a jackplate on a smaller bass boat is the extra stress it places on the transom from the cantelever effect. Your transom may flex and have issues. Other than that the jack plate will give you a bit more stability and help you bridge waves a bit better.

  9. There are lots of reasons for a jack plate.. Especially on a small boat. Every extra inch makes a difference. When you trim the motor fully do you porpoise at all? I think your going to need to wedge the motor a bit. This is pretty common. I had to do the same with my stratus. I am a little bit confused what the problem is though. Are you saying the bow isn't lifting up high enough, or it won't go down enough? If you are under power and you are unable to trim the motor up up and raise the bow then you have a mechanical issue. I mean you motor should trim up right out of the water.

    If you have too much prop your likely to not even be able to get out of the water. How is it getting up on plane? I would raise the motor. Start with the prop shaft at 2 inches below the pad. When you drop to a 4 or 5 blade prop your doing this to get out of the hole faster not to raise your top end.

     

    What pitch prop were your running on that high 5, what was your top speed and gear ratio?

  10. Your numbers give that a prop slip of 20%, thats pretty high.

    The theoretical speed is 51mph for a 2.07 gear ratio, 22 pitch prop, and 5100 rpms.

     

    If you are not able to trim up enough you can add a wedge on you motor/jackplate. If your boat isn't able to trim up enough that could help you to also increase your rpm's as you will be getting more of the boat out of the water.

     

    With a 22 pitch prop, and 5500 rpms, your theoretical max speed is 55mph. I would think you should be able to get your prop slip down in the 10% range getting you around 50mph...

     

    Just for some info high 50's with a 2.07 gear ratio and a 22 pitch prop, your motor would require around 6000 rpm's. The theoretical max speed at 6000 rpms is 60 mph, add in prop slip your gonna be into you high to mid 50's...

     

    A boat CAN'T go faster than the theoretical max speed. You can't have negative slip. Its not possible. as in PERIOD. End of story. Unless you also have a jet engine pushing you. But at that point your prop would be slowing you down.

     

    A prop is essentially a screw in the water. Given the angle of the screw (pitch) and the speed its spinning, it can only move through the water so fast. There is always some slip, caused by hull drag, wind resistance, water resistance on the prop, prop flex will also have an effect, losing you a few degrees f pitch with an alluminum prop at full speed etc... This is referred to as slip.

     

    For an efficient hull, and setup in a bass boat your looking at around 10% slip. An souper duper Allison might down down into the 5% prop slip range under the right conditions. Anything better than 10 percent is great, less than that and you can usually do some work.

     

    You at 20% prop slip right now so you have some work to do.

     

    And btw do your speeed with a gps. Water based speedo's are crap at best.

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