Tybo

This is the problem, They are not custom seals.

This seal is used in all there engine and likely has thousands of

different applications.

It's not cost affective to be using differnt type of seals per engine.

This is totally unacceptable.

I've bought thousands of seals over the years.

If i was working this weak, I would travel near TO bearings and got

both seals for the price of one!

You would think At this price these seals where custom.

I should be glad outboards don't use duo-cone seals.

I would say that the part cost you $10.00 and the information/assurance that it will work was the other $10.00. Would it help if you thought of it as overnight shipping and research and development charge included????

 

Art

Well $10 for the part and $10 for information/assurance on BOTH would have been a bit more acceptable, but for each one, not sure about that.

As for your other question, ummmmmmm NO! ha ha ha.

Oh well, lesson learned. The high price of fishin I spose. At least my spouse understands

Joey

If I Had a dime for every time the weather man was right.

I'd be broke and hungry.

Roy. the name Sanchez sounds pretty well American to me!

Most cotter pin failure is do to the pin was bent to far.

Yes, there is appropriate angle a cotter pin is suppose to be bent.

Ant further and you weaken the cotter pin.

When ever you start too worry over it.

Wow Lew, that's certainly something that makes you think about life and how it goes sometimes.

I had a friend recently contact me who I haven't seen or talked to since I was living on the townsite in Elliot Lake (grade 6 to 10). We were almost joined at the hip there as there weren't that many families on the townsite and then ones your age were even harder to come by. I was tempted to invite her to the BOQ G2G for a day as she lives close to there, and I think you just made up my mind. I'll give her a call this week.

Thanks Lew.

Joey

Edit - Dang, gave Paul another post count

If you are insured, Take it to the local Marina.

Tell him whats going on. Good chance they will condemn the lower unit.

When you twist your prop shaft, most of the time you will lose the sealing around the shaft.

If this happens, there will be oil leakage past the seal.

I have never seen a prop shaft that is bent with out it cracking at the bearing boss.

Most damage that occurs from hitting something happens to the drive shaft(shaft that connects the engine to

lower unit) The oil leakage is harder to see. The oil will leak into the impeller housing.

This is rare, but some times there is twisting without oil leakage. If this occurs their should be wear sighs on the

pinion and bevel gear.

If you are still not sure take it to a machine shop. They will put it in a lathe and check it to see if it is still true.

Dan, I already wear Carhartt

What I'm looking for is a large Hydro parka for when it's raining or wet snow.

I just received the Mark's flyer.

It has outwear with T-max stuff.

Has anyone used this type of insulation.

Is it any good.

I'm a outdoor worker. The warmer the better.

Only if you dont mind riding shot gun in a Dodge

I have a number for a cheap tow truck.

I use a spark tester.

It's a shocking experience to find out it's a bad wire.

At that distance apart, which ever prop churns the water first would win.

The water on the back side of a prop is less dense. Making the other prop slip.

The perfect example of this is running the lower Niagara river and going though a Eddy.

What Doesn't make sense to me. If this is such a great engine, why are they not out sponsoring

F1 or outboard drag racing?

HAA,Ha Roy.

Worlds oldest mouse trap, and you guys are just catching up.

To hang on Marc's boat for a season.

Bring it to my house.

I'll use it all winter, no storage.

Boat winterizing here is putting on another pair of Sox's.

Fix,You have every thing to do the repair!

Repair; you need every thing to make it fixed!

Pull ties of different lengths and size.

A length of wire.

Butt connectors.

Spade connectors.

Medium vise-grips.

6" pipe wrench.

Stripper-crimper pliers.

Length of fuel line and connectors.

Electric tape and duct.

Crazy glue and epoxy.

Hose clamps. From small to big enough to fit over the hub of the trailer.

Multi-meter.

Spare impeller.

A length of hose that fits over the spout of a Jerry can(need to fit snug,so wont fall off) that will reach your tank.

One end on can, one end in tank= no spillage.

Also assortment of fasteners and screws(stainless steel).

And some of the other stuff mention

It seem like a lot, but will fit in a large zip lock bag.

I carry alot in the truck.

You're late!!!

I'm actually surprised how accurate mine is between 30 and 40.

Also run a gps.

My performance boat ran 87mph on the gun in 3 to 4 foot rollers.

the water pick up type of speedo would read any where between 55 and 100,

until the water tore the blade off.It was the stainless steel type.

With most DC electronic built today,If there is a power fluctuation(a change in amperage)

the unit will shut you down.

They still use resisters and capacitors,but also use a micro chip to control amps.

As soon as the amp card start to read a high or low amperage the micro chip reads there is

something wrong and signals to the amp card to shut down or burn out to protect parts that can over heat

causing real damage or fires.

Has anyone bought fish finders/gps units that have been repaired from

the manufacturer.

If so, What kind of warranty do you get and was there any further problems?

When your batt, light comes on . it's your alt. If the car dies it's your batt.

I have driven for over a hour when the alt, has died with the heater and lights on.

When changing your alt, you should change your belt also.

Most of the belts now days will not squeal when it's dry out.

There is only one belt on the market. and that is GATES.

You don't use GATES you deserve what can happen.

I change my belt every 2 years. To much is ride on something so simple.