Hack_Fisherman

10 hours ago, Sinker said:

I have all the tools and rivets to fix that, but its a little more than i would attempt personally. That' is a nasty hole in your boat. I hope you are ok after that, and nobody was injured! 

 

S. 

I don’t think it’s a hole, only a separation of the keel. Nasty bump indeed though

If you want to fix yourself I’ve got lots of 5/32” solid aluminum rivets if you need some. You need an air hammer and rivet setting tool (available at aircraft spruce Branford or online or Spaenaur in Kitchener) plus good 5/32” drill bit (rivet removing tool from aircraft spruce also works well)

8 hours ago, Big Cliff said:

More from our Argo adventures: we have been working to make a trail back into what is known locally as the chain of lakes, (I use to fish these lakes 50 years ago)  I don't think they are named on any maps. You can walk in to them, I am guessing it's about 3 miles from the nearest road access but it's a tough walk through some pretty dense bush. You can portage in but again a really rough go through some creaks and swamps. Anyway using a combination of river, swamp, and roughing a trail through the bush we now have access. 

Last weekend we finally had a chance to get back in there fishing, amazing would be an understatement! We typically don't weigh or measure our fish unless there is a slot to worry about but in the picture of my son holding up the stringer of fish, well he has big hands so you can get an idea of the size. I included the other picture so you can see just how comfortable these things are, notice sock feet, clean, dry. We could never do things like this without the Argo. 

GREEN with ENVY

12 hours ago, Garfisher said:

Tie on your most expensive lure without a wire leader on, that'll definitely locate you some pike! (Might get expensive though haha)

Isn’t that the truth!

12 minutes ago, OMCDinosaur said:

enjoy the fresh 70 until the gas engine ban in 2035 something.... 14 years to go LOL.   They'll stop selling tcw-3 in 10 years, btw

Huh? 

11 minutes ago, lew said:

Plus a Class C is a bit more manageable if you need to go into town for whatever reason.

True, but I’ll miss the touring factor. We go to a lot of the provincial parks and often spend a day (or more) road tripping the area. Maybe keep the canoe after all and bring the car (and canoe) on a tow dolly for trips to new areas or “city” based trips etc.

11 minutes ago, lew said:

Years ago my folks had a Class C motorhome and it was darned nice. Wife & I took it on a couple trips to the east coast and it was extremely comfortable. Obviously smaller than a Class A but for a couple it's more than adequate if you won't be spending long periods of time in it.

our tent trailer is so small we’re knees to knees at the dinette, which is the only place to sit. We looked at lots of trailers at the RV show but I want to bring the boat too. buying a 3/4 ton truck daily driver to tow both a 5r and a boat is out of the question. (Nor do I want to tow a train)

So I think C class is the right size fit for us and my thoughts are if we really enjoy it over the next 2 years we would possibly commit to buying newer to go further out. 

1 hour ago, Big Cliff said:

I have a 2004 Winniibago 30' class A and love it. I did tons of research (4 years worth) prior to deciding on the class A but I am really glad I went that route.  There is so much information to share I couldn't possibly put it all on here. Be careful of very low milage units, they have been sitting a long time things tend to be dried out and seized up. Watch for evidence of water damage, make sure propane appliances especially things like the fridge, and air conditioning are in good working condition, they can be very expensive repairs. I  would be happy to try to help if you have any specific questions or if you want to phone me, pm me and I'll send you my phone number. 

Thanks Cliff, I really appreciate that offer. 
I definitely need something that’s running, driving, stopping and looks structurally sound as a starting point. Non running is a dealbreaker. Good point about the sitting forever thing. I hear the domestic 2 way fridges are not cheap (if I can even find matching sizes etc). I’d definitely want one that runs on both propane and 12v

11 hours ago, Fisherman said:

Only going by my 1987 travel trailer and the new 2019 one I have, I can only say that the workmanship of the new ones is like, assembled by a bunch of crackheads.  Windows not sealed, plumbing connections not even remotely tight, when I turned the water on and took the strainers off, wood chips came out with the water.  Couldn't figure out why one of the receptacles inside didn't work, well the wires weren't hooked up.  Unbelievable.  And it's not just the low end models, there's people on the RV forums with complaints all day, all night.  Floors are now no longer 3/4 or 5/8 plywood, it's foam sandwiched  between luan sheets and covered with either sheet vinyl or other junk.  One large lady actually fell through her floor.  So, that said, I'd be looking at some of the older well taken care of models.

Thanks, I’m hearing similar things. Our old, basic Coleman was better built than later years. Roof, canvas etc. 

Geez, is the RV pool just as crazy as the boating situation right now? 

I thought about picking up a cheap 80’s or 90’s C Class (Think cube van chassis) to fix up. Prices are anywhere from ok to right stupid.

But the wife is done with the tent trailer and I’d rather tow the boat now anyway, so now on to something I never considered until now. 

Anyone running an older rig with moderate success? I’m not afraid of mechanical repairs or substantial restoration work, but I don’t want a an absolute money pit turd of a project. 

there seems to be some decent, lower mileage picks out there that by mileage, should have substantial life left. (Save for age related things like deteriorated plastics, rubber etc) 

My preferences tend to be by what I can afford out-of-pocket. I don’t have payments and I do not want payments. If anybody out there has run both old and new and the answer is buy new or forget it, I need to know this LOL. (Somehow I think it’s going to be the latter) 
 

Look at it as a new chapter. Book is not over yet. Enjoy the hell out of the new one

Congrats on your purchase. Also on the decision to keep the Yammy. I wouldn’t have traded it for a new merc either. 

Sign up on AOMCI (antique outboard motor club) 

they have a forum called “ask a member” 

you won’t find a better resource forum for old outboard motors than there. 
 

Be careful removing the upper screws until you know which one. IIRC, some old OMC lower units had three screws and one was to position or secure something inside. Removing by mistake made it a real hassle to resemble said item

good luck with your motor, hope it works out

1 hour ago, kickingfrog said:

Supply (down) and demand (up a bunch). I don't wonder if I couldn't sell my rig that I've had for 8 years for the same price I paid for it. 

If not more

6 minutes ago, bigcreekdad said:

Hack....The Crestliner is around 1050lbs. The Lund is 250 lbs less....big difference

Ok, so perhaps just a winching thing...would a bigger winch, electric winch or roller trailer, roller bunks or slicks be enough to offset those concerns? 

I don’t know your needs but I think there’d be enough wiggle room to offset the weight difference depending on your budget?
 

Both are nice. But I much prefer everything offered in the Crestliner. Much better on the compartments and control panel layout.  And while I generally think nautolex is a better overall product long term, the carpet in the Crestliner looks nicer. 
 

is there that much weight difference and where does the heavier weight difference  really impact you? (Launch, towing, roll around dry storage Ie; garage etc)

8 hours ago, phatbassturd said:

We are heading home tomorrow, nearly skunked... 1 10" eye, few perch, buncha smallies, some big cats and a sucker is all we've got so far- friends managed a 24" eye the first day, and only 3 total since sunday... the peace and quiet and serenity is well worth the price of admission tho!!

If you still have a chance, try trolling deep for eyes. Guys were up there last week and did ok downrigging eyes. Ask at the lodge.

Ahh, I’m not the only one!! 
 

place is quiet lately. Any action on here gets pounced on. 

Lol, wow, I never noticed. 

6 hours ago, huzzsaba said:

BTW,how are the older Johnsons, Evinrude, and mercury?  

 

Johnson & Evinrude were both owned by OMC. Lots of them around, but again if you’re looking at 60’s like that Viking or 70’s motors, you are going to see a lot of worn out junk full of obsolete parts. You may find gold (a low hours, pristine motor that’s been properly stored for decades) but you still have age related issues such as brittle and cracked fuel lines, plugged carbs, rotten seals. (All rubber has a shelf life)

I can’t speak for merc or the Japanese brands, but I’ve got a 1990 Evinrude 8hp that I picked up for $450 a few years ago. I rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel lines and did a lower unit service and it purrs like a kitten all day long. But I was willing to take a chance on it and do the work. 

it been MUCH tougher to find good deals due to covid with anything boat/camping related and that surely doesn’t help your case. 
 

can we ask what your budget is? 

I have a squarestern with a 30 lb thrust troller on it. Works great, can troll slow all day on a group 27 if not windy. 
 

what I find to be a PITA is

1) the motor locks down. I’ve hit rock shelf’s twice and it’s not a happy moment. They should swing free like a kicker does in forward gear. I don’t use it enough to look at modifying. 

2) the damn tiller handle is right behind my back. I almost think I’d prefer the motor to be mounted off to one side. Maybe if I lost some of my 24 pack I’d be better off.   EDIT: I just learned that a simple mod is to rotate the control head 90 degrees to one side so it’s easier to use. “Duh, why didn’t I think of that moment!” Since my boat is currently full of holes (rivet replacement) I might actually dig out the canoe and try this mini mod. 
 

Action pics!!! Got any more pics Cliff?

On 10/1/2009 at 8:34 PM, drwxr said:

have you tried NAPA?

FYI to boat diy guys, Napa carries or distributes Sierra OB motor parts. Might be easier or cheaper than your marina

On 10/1/2009 at 8:34 PM, drwxr said:

have you tried NAPA?

Them or Britton auto parts 

On 10/1/2009 at 8:53 PM, danbouck said:

lmctruck.com

If you go OMC truck, look for a Canadian distributor as they used to only ship UPS (ultimate postage scammers) and brokerage fees are stunned. Or check to see if they will ship USPS over the border.