GYPSY400

A heli-coil would work and you can probably find one with the same thread pitch as the original drain plug. It will actually be stronger than the original threads into aluminum. Try to reduce the amount of shavings that go in the hole, but if a few go in its no big deal as the drain is quite a distance from the oil pump pickup which won't be a concern unless you stand the motor on its head. It will be money well spent to bring this to a small engine shop ( ATV's) as this is a common repair for them. One oil change halfway through a season if you run it every day is plenty.. you can go 200hrs on oil without worry. Marine engines don't see dust and dirt that other engines do.

^^^ you may be right AKRISONER.. My FF off the TM battery is an old 718 Hummingbird with a black and white screen. I have a helix 7 in the back hooked to a fuse panel which is then run from the starting battery

That is very possible, although I've never experienced it.. I also have a fish finder running off my bow mount TM with the transducer mounted on the lower unit and it seems to work fine.

You can run the fish finder off either battery, it draws hardly any power... but id run it off the tractor battery if it were me. I'd keep the tractor battery for this year and buy a 24 or 27 for the TM.. I go all day on a 24, but I rarely go out for 2 days without charging so you might justify the extra capacity of the 27 ( keepnin mind the extra weight). A solar panel will get you a bit of charge but not much ( pretty much an hour on solar will give you maybe 5 minutes of TM) Any chance you can hook to a generator on your trip to charge the battery in the evening? Most generators have a 12v circuit. Worst case ontario if the battery for the gas engine goes flat you still have the pull start.

Ahh ok, so the transom does have a wood core. Chances are you'll be ok , but having a tether doesn't hurt, especially when your not the only one driving the boat.

Yes that is normal, the water coming out with the exhaust is meant the cool the muffler. As long as it's peeing out the side at idle it will be fine for the rest of the year.. if it's intermittent or really weak at idle it needs to be done asap. You can find videos on YouTube on how to do it for that model of motor - the hardest part is disconnecting the shift linkage ( I think there is an oval shaped plate for access) . Learn how to do it yourself and you will gain satisfaction and save money.. or buy a box of beer and invite one of you mechanical inclined friends over. That's a good job for the off season, along with changing the foot oil and maybe a new set of spark plugs. Spend the extra money for OEM water pump and you'll be trouble free for 5 seasons. Also run only Ethanol free fuel ( shell Vpower) to save on fuel system issues down the road

How thick is the transom on the boat? Like 1.5" thick? Or just a thin sheet? Please provide pics if possible.

I run a 55lb trolling motor off 1 group 24 battery. I was going to step up to a 27, but I couldn't justify the weight penalty ( pick up both, you will see what I mean) mind you, my trolling motor and battery are in the bow. It goes all day on a 24. I have an additional cranking battery in the back for the gas motor and fish finder. You can get a starting/deep cycle combination marine battery from CTC ( 010-2499-8).. you will want a deep cycle for the trolling motor, and a starting battery for the gas engine. Each type of battery is meant to discharge and recharge differently. You could keep your tractor battery for starting, and just get a pure deep cycle for the trolling motor (010-2492-2) Don't count on the outboard to charge the trolling motor battery as the charging system is very small ( approximately 4 amps at wide open throttle) so you will have to hook up a battery charger after each fishing trip so the battery is 100% for the next outing.

With small boats, weight placement is a big factor.. if all 3 guests are in the very front , it will just plow. If everyone sits in the back, it will just point at the sky and squat. Even moving the gas tank towards the middle of the boat makes a difference. Try it alone at first and figure out where it needs to be, then add balanced weight ( people) chances are you might have to go up 1 or 2 holes. You will also notice a difference depending on where people sit.

You are currently on the lowest trim setting. Start there and test drive it alone with minimal gear- it will plane quickly ,but probably plow water. Move up one hole at a time until the side spray is about 2/3 from the front of the boat and the bow doesn't porpoise (bounce). If the bow porpoises, you've gone too high. This will be a good setting once you add gear and passengers, if alone go back down one hole. From there you can fine tune by moving weight around.

I'd give this a 5 depending on your wood working abilities ( it's more wood working than mechanical) I just measured my 16ft legend ( which is the same as a Starcraft or Smokercraft) and its 21" from the top of the transom to the bottom of the hull. The motor has a 3/4" gap at the clamp ( dealer installed) and the motor is thru bolted with 2 bolts. Considering there are only about 2 good months of season left , you might want to make this a winter project and take your time.

You'd be happier with a long shaft transom as I said before.. I own both and much prefer the extra 5 inches when reversing or traveling down wind and coming to a troll from speed. Newer Short shaft motors over 20hp are hard to come by.

I did a transom on a smokercraft last year.. it was 1.5" thick.. so 2 x 3/4 plywood and the method you explained.. go all the way across the boat with the grain horizontal, don't try and patch a chunk to the existing piece. The transom will flex under torque so the wood needs to flex and not break. laminated wood would actually be stronger than a solid piece ( if you could ever find one big enough) as it would flex a bit. A solid hardwood piece will snap easier if flexed. My first ever transom I replaced, I used a piece of hardwood ( cherry I think) the last time I had the boat out, the transom had alot of flex, so I think the wood inside is compromised .. You have to ask yourself, why do boats come with plywood core transom rather than hardwood or even just solid aluminum?

That boat was originally a Long shaft boat, and someone has cut the transom to fit a short shaft motor. The second step down and the gusset reaching the edge are 2 giveaways. 3rd giveaway is that no one makes a 40hp short shaft motor, therefore no one will rate a short transom at 40hp I'd rip it all out and replace the transom wood to the original profile ( the pic with the red line on it). It will cost you one sheet of 3/4 plywood, paint ( sealer) and time

That boat was originally a Long shaft boat, and someone has cut the transom to fit a short shaft motor. The second step down and the gusset reaching the edge are 2 giveaways. I'd rip it all out and replace the transom wood to the original profile ( the pic with the red line on it). It will cost you one sheet of 3/4 plywood, paint ( sealer) and time