baironhorse

I checked BP website and can't find,,,if they seel the stuff I can pick up a can..

Ok I read countless posts on the advantages of seafoam...I have 1991 Merc 25hp 2stroke...I have a bad habbit of running her a little rich..lately been finding its a pain to start cold..but when she starts she is ok ...Im guessing choke area.I checked lines, bulb vent etc all good....I want to double check my choke again....CTC has Seafoam on sale pickup a can and I decided I want to give it a run....I have a 25lt tank..should I add the 2oz to a gallon like instructions or use more like I have read in other posts...I have about a 1/2 tank of 3 week old SHell Gold octain gas mixed with Shell Nautilus 2 cycle oil...What do you guys suggest for a first seafoam run (atleast within last two years)?

Im in Caledon...what about Bass pro?

WHere can I get STA-BIL Marine Fuel Stabilizer ? No luck at Can Tire or Walmart

ANy repairs guys here on the board...although my unit is working great the indicator lamp is burnt out...It would be nice to change bulb for night fishin..not necessary but nice to have if it isn;t to much headache to change...anyone change one before?..mine is a MG 56lb

Thanks to you all that helped my out. If you are cruzing thru the board and need to know how to hook up the older 12/24v slector switch TM in a 24V series then see the attached diagram,,,Note in my diagram Im connected for a 24v series only ...if you want the option of 12v & 24v all you do is run the 12v white wire to +ve to battery one. Hope this helps you out! Regards, IH

check this out!

Thanks I will look into choke!

On the above test only ONE 12V BATTERY WAS USED to test- Have to buy another one and Yes i just want 24v system...cause I was startin to worry I would need another wire to be run thru my boat as I currently have two (POS & Neg) for a 12V set up....AS I want to move up to 24v, If I can use the existing wires (4guage marine) and as I have a two feet of wire left over so I can make the jumper cable then all I really need is a second battery..Am I correct?

Hey Terry so everything looks correct to get a 24 v system TM going?

Ok from what you are telling me this is what I came up with...I made a drawing let me know if you think its correct so i can hook up this motor...Hopefully I have it now....thanks

Not to sound like a broken record…I’m a little confused and want to wire this up properly.- sorry If the below sounds silly...from my previous posts I took suggestions from all of you kind folks that took the time to help me out....As I want to upgrade my 36lb 12V to a 56lb 12/24V, I want to connect all up in order....Ok I have the wiring diagram for a 24v series system which I confirmed in previous post is correct…Now I want to confirm the wiring in my 56lb 12/24v system. I have three wires coming out of the unit Black, White and Red. I hooked up the black to –NEG and these are my results (Only ONE 12VBATTERY WAS USED to test- Have to buy another one): With switch in 12 V mode: • Black to NEG • White to POS- motor works • Red to POS- motor does not work With switch in 24 V mode: • Black to Neg • White to POS- motor does not work • Red to POS- motor works Can I assume that white wire is for 12V and red wire is for 24V and obviously Black is Negative? Anyone else with this type of TM? I have a attached a pic for reference. Two guys and loaded gear with a choppy water my 36lb struggles a little to pull 16’. I figure the 56lb should do the trick. Your thoughts! Thanks

not to sound stupid..but what would be the correct starting position for the choke...i.e. should it be turned all the counter clock wise at starting and once started turn clock wise to adjust idle...or is this not necessary with the fast idle lever?

Its been about 2yrs....was all checked before winter and all good then? Doea running mix on the richer side make a diffence?

I got a 1991 25hp Merc. Lately it has been giving me a hard time starting cold. First time I ran it this season it started on second crank. Last couple of outings it has been a pain to start cold and needs a dozen or so trys.....when it is warmed up it starts first shot..It is not a tiller motor and I have choke out and fast idle lever up when starting....Any suggestions? Maybe give me a complete run down of choke positions etc...anyone experience this?

Here a couple of the fish I caught at this yr's opener at Canal....To add to this were a couple of average size large mouth and two nice smallies where I ranout of battery in my camera and coudn't take pics ! errr....didn't hit any pike though.

So you suggest I stay with this wiring diagram? See link from previous post: http://www.ofncommunity.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=54162

any one?

Seems like I am asking the same ole questions....when I think I have all the answers I run into more material and get confused...QUestion is: from reading below I want to run a 24v system only...DO I still have to wire the 12v line evernthough I have no desire of using this feature....I know these 12/14v selector switch systems are different from a stright forward 24v wired series (atleast from what I read)....I just hate the fact of running a third wire in my boat ( and getting a second breaker) and would like to avoid all this and utilize my wiring I have...ANy thoughts or am I $.O.L? ""What the wiring looks like depends on what functionality you want. If you want the option of using either 12V OR 24V operation, then the schematic shown above will not work -- its a 24V only setup. Since you have a 12/24V selector switch on the trolling motor, you can use this schematic and eliminate one of the ground wires, and you can also eliminate the switch panel. The motor also has a speed control on the foot pedal so you can eliminate the speed control box on the boat. With this system however, you will need to charge each battery individually (at the battery) or install a dual bank on-board charger. The reason two sets of wires (one pair from each battery) were routed to the panel was for 12/24 switching and to enable charging both batteries with a single 12V charger through the receptacle. All that switching with more modern motors is not necessary.""" http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=187256&page=1

Cheapest I found is $136.50+ tax from interstate & BPS...anyone else know where I could get better price???

Where could I get a 27class deep cycle interstate for a good price? anyone

right on! thks guys

Ok cool...so Im good to go then with adding same battery?

Yes another battery question: I baught an 27class interstate last Sept 2010 and used it approx 5 times and kept it mainted througjout winter...the battery is stamped Aug 2010 so it was a fresh one when I baught it....as I am upgrading my TM from 12v to 24v I plan to run a 2 battery system wired in a series...My question is as I need another battery, I was going to buy the exact same battery only difference it will be alot newer. Will the age difference in batteries (although minor IMO) affect the series once wired up? Will the weaker battery cause a weak link?

Thx Roy...good to know...I won't burn any thing out in the process will I?