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Syn

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Posts posted by Syn

  3. Gloucester Pool

    in General Discussion

    Posted · Edited by Syn

    and musky too.

     

    Hello and welcome fish d00d

     

    Gpool: I find it harder to fish there compared to other lakes I've been to but when I hook up its likelier to be a bigger fish that at the other lakes. High risk high reward imo. I'm thinking the average size fish there is bigger.

     

    Anglers atlas website has a free map to work from. The first couple of times I went it was easy to get lost if you come up through little lake but then I started using the hydro lines on the East side as point of reference and all was well. Its a good place to troll for pike and musky because there is so much area to fish and the depth is over 30ft and many areas. Going between the islands and finding lilly pads is agreat way to find pike sunning themselves (even saw a brown gar pike 3ft long) and some huge large mouth bass.

     

    I think there's lots of boats traveling through the lake which can give some big waves so its a good idea to use a inflatable vest there, especially when the wind makes the waves even bigger.

     

    Unfortunately I find the best time to fish there is early morning and later in the day after 6pm (when I have to bring the rental boat back :( ). If you search this forum you'll come across a thread of night musky fishing on gpool.

  4. fluorocarbon Vs the rest?

    in General Discussion

    Posted · Edited by Syn

    Hey there guys just a quick question im hoping to get opions on which you think is better fluorocarbon leaders or conventional metal leaders ? Im refering more so to two categories muskie/pike and bass/walleye ( so dont worry about trout or salmon etc). currently i run fluorocarbon leaders on my muskie and pike rods somewhere in the 100- 130 lbs test with appropriate snaps and swivels to correspond. im curious because in all honesty with how much technology in fishing line has evolved over the years with the braids etc im usually direct tying on my bass and walleye setups. This year im thinking of changing that and going with fluoro on the bass and walleye setups. Im wondering which you prefer out of the two for both categories. and with walleye and bass setups to you prefer direct ties to your braid with a double uni, or palmer. or do you prefer a swivel to connect them. and if so when your running say 12 - 15lbs braid what lbs test are you using for your fluorocarbon. Wow this was supposed to be a quick question but i couldnt stop any opions and personal experiences would be welcome. Thanks look forward to reading your replies.

    Matt

     

    When I first started using braid in lighter weights 30 lb or less I thought I would just tie it directly to spinnerbaits and crankbaits when fishing for bass. Little pike 20" in the same area where I was bass fishing just cut right through it like I was using sewing thread, so I switched to using floruo or using the remaining braid with a 20- 25 lb flouro leader. I like using a swivel at one end and a snap at the other for all the leaders just to help reduce line twists.

  5. Portable Fish Finder Reccomendations?

    in General Discussion

    Posted · Edited by Syn

    I like radioworld: http://radioworld.ca...t=&filter_id=37

     

    You can also get one from Bass pro, Lebarons, Canadian tire (likely overpriced), and may other fishing stores.

     

    I got a Eagle 245Ds Portable and some rechargeable AA batteries. I use it 80% of the time in 30ft or less just for finding structure and checking depth, not much for "fish plotting" which I find is so inaccurate especially with weeds suspended at different depths. Ity does an awesome job at plotting the bottom and telling me if the bottom is hard or soft.

     

    Can't really complain much about the unit. I like having 2 different beams. From what I experienced it does pick fish up in deeper water well eg 70+ft in open water. You get what you pay for and mine certainly is not anywhere near top of the line but for me its just right.

  7. Advice needed for crappie fishing

    in General Discussion

    Posted · Edited by Syn

    Crappies are so easy to catch and fun. Thill shybite bobber or mini shybite with split shot and yellow fly or 1/16 jig yellow microtube (no split shot used). 4lb test line on an ultralight rod and 1000 or 500 series reel. Twitching it really makes them go for it by making it seem alive. Another tip is vary the line depth from the bobber to the jig until they keep hitting it over and over. I like to make sure the jig hook is sharpened and I bend it out slightly (open it).

  10. Crappie Bonanza

    in General Discussion

    Posted · Edited by Syn

    oh man, now I'm officially jealous. :thumbsup_anim: Congrats on your crappie haul!

     

     

    So many great threads lately of people having a great day fishing. I'm double checking the regs in my area for crappies. I know where there is a ton of them not far from my home.

  17. Crankbait setup help?

    in General Discussion

    Posted · Edited by Syn

    Cant u also cast a bit further with fluoro than with mono?

     

    I'm no expert, just some guy who likes to fish. Perhaps google might find you some real world numeric test results.

     

    If I were to guess I'd guess that limper mono casts farther than a stiffer flouro. Not all flouro is of the same stiffness though.

     

    I never actually tried mono vs floro casting side by side sorry. But I did find my Seaguar invisx to be stiffer than my berkley mono IIRC (I forgot to soak the spool d'oh) when I put it on.

     

    I don't expect (no proof) there to be much more than say 10-15% distance in casts between the two lines but that gets quickly fixed by using line conditioner, and a slightly heavier crank bait or crankbait that is more aerodynamic, a better tuned reel, and lighter line. For shore casting and for easily spooked fish I could see how long casts could benefit, but I can cast pretty far especially with the wind lol, from a boat.

     

    Also noticed floro has less stretch than mono, dare I say too little at times when I am overly excited and set the hook to hard ( I need to learn to relax). So for long distance casts flouro will let you set the hook better because of less stretch, but you still do yourself a world of good by having those hooks sharpened from the night before.

     

     

    Yet another eidt:

    Some great tips here for crankbaits (check out when to use a snap): http://centralcoastbass.com/tips&tricks.htm

  18. Crankbait setup help?

    in General Discussion

    Posted · Edited by Syn

    If you are buying new line anyway, may I suggest fluorocarbon. Me and my buddy were using the exact same spinnerbait in clear water casting in the same area. I kept hooking up with slabs of smallmouths, him nothing. Also flouro is UV protected, mono is not and weakens in the sun. Means that you'll have to change your mono more often. So flouro is more cost effective in the long run.

     

    Line strength 10-15 lb my suggestion for 2-3" crink baits not near cover. Also flouro is more abrasive resistant when going over rocks compared to mono.

     

    http://www.tackletou...carbontest.html

     

    Nice lines but expensive Seaguar fluorocarbon and Yo-zuri.

     

    Braided line say 30lb+ could be a great option for fishing in cover stumps, but I don't do that for fear of loosing crankbaits or the fish getting hooked and going in deeper into cover. I play it safe and switch to a weedless grub, worm, or froggy.

  20. polorized classes

    in General Discussion

    Posted · Edited by Syn

    I meant that non polarized sun glasses at that price level will dilate your pupils while at the same time allowing more UV rays in (the cheap ones won't block them out).

     

    I've never read anything regarding polarized vs non polarized in UV protected sunglasses VS eye dilation. Any link for us?

     

    I know the darker the lenses the more your eye dilates, but everyone knows that.

     

     

     

     

    edit Did find this: http://www.spectacle.../products05.htm

     

    Well I learned something new today, thanks Mykester. First part is common sense, but if I'm reading it right, it seems polarization adds an extra level of protection on top of UV protection and helps to reduce eye strain (less squinting and glare reduction). I know I've had that after a full day of fishing!

     

    "Tint vs. Polarized

     

    Although darkly tinted sunglasses may reduce brightness, they do not remove glare like a polarized lens. In addition, dark sunglasses without added ultraviolet protection may cause more damage to the patient's eyes than not wearing sunglasses at all. The darkness of the lens can cause the pupil to dilate, letting more ultraviolet rays into the inner parts of the eye. Polarized lenses solve both problems by eliminating glare and filtering out harmful ultraviolet light because the filter reduces the polarized glare and also has ultraviolet absorbing properties.

     

    Today's polarized lenses represent the best sunwear and outdoor lifestyle options available. With a little explanation and demonstration on your part, your patients will enjoy the benefits of these lenses for years to come.

     

    Advantages of Polarized Lenses

     

    Features

     

    • Filters glare
    • Enhances contrast
    • Reduces squinting
    • Constant density tints
    • Backside AR compatibility
    • Tintable and coatable
    • Lightweight
    • Thin

    Benefits

     

    • Reduces eyestrain, greater comfort
    • Improves visual acuity, provides safety
    • Eyes feel rested
    • Realistic perception
    • Reduces reflections and enhances visual clarity
    • Certain lens materials can be darkened and provides limitless colour options
    • Comfortable Attractive-looking sunwear"

  22. polorized classes

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Smally, Oakleys are so sweet.

    If I win a lottery I'd get

     

    http://oakley.ca/custom/radar

     

     

     

     

    Your custom Radar® order contains:

    Frame: True Carbon Fiber

    Lens: Black Iridium Range

    Etching: Ontario Fishing (Font: SCRIPTANA)

    Lens: Gold Iridium Range

    Icon: Polished Black

    Earsock: Black

     

    All sales of Oakley Custom Product are final. No refunds, exchanges or cancellations will be accepted.

    Usually ships in 7-10 days

    Remove $400.00 $400.00

  24. polorized classes

    in General Discussion

    Posted · Edited by Syn

    I've heard that brown tint rather than grey works better in water. Any truth to this?

     

     

    I've used light brown before but I can't seem to get use to them. :dunno:

    Anyhow many people love the light brown over grey. http://www.dicksspor...egoryId=1179922

     

    "Brown Considered by many to be the best all-around tint for fishing. Provides excellent contrast and true color perception. Great for shallow water stream and flats fishing in medium to bright light."

     

     

    Also http://www.bassdozer...unglasses.shtml

     

    "A Word about Color.

     

     

    The orangish amber lenses are not the most stylish color, but they are the optimum lenses for fishing in broad daylight - at least for my eyes. This color cuts the sunlight's glare, and gives you the ability to see under the cover of the water's reflective surface. They offer high contrast and improved depth perception. You can see clearer and with less distortion. Glare and haze that normally blur our field of underwater view are neutralized. Most importantly, anything green, including old moss back, will stick out like a sore thumb against a non-green background.

     

     

     

    For general boating, fishing muddy water or deep water, a neutral gray lens is more attractive and more functional than amber. Optically, a gray lens provides uniform absorption of most colors in the spectrum. Grey creates neither color distortion nor enhancement. Gray provides an accurate, precise shading for your eyes on the most brilliant of sunny days."

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