singingdog

I am planning on targetting musky more this year. I have caught a few - PB in the kayak is 36" - and have always released them in the water using jaw spreaders and long-nosed pliers. To avoid handling them and to make release easier, I have always fished lures with single hooks (spinnerbaits mostly). I want to fish some lures with trebles, but would like a better way to handle the fish. So (finally) my question for the experienced musky handlers: Are the lip-grips a good way to handle a good sized musky? -or- should I just figure out how to use a net in the kayak? I am worried about injuring a big fish with the lip-grip. Is that a danger?

I hate to respectfully disagree, but I will.

 

In the north where most of the forestry is, building of bridges by forestry companies actually opens up additional fishing and hunting areas to the general public, rather than limiting use to only those who can pay big dollars to fly-in fishing operations. While I have nothing against the latter, I do have a problem when they lobby government to have our public dollars spent by the MNR buldozing previous logging roads.

 

I find it hard to believe that that a few cribs here and there actual do anything to fishing, but I can understand whitewater enthusiasts getting their knickers in a knot about it. Why you'd actually need to do a few more turns to avoid them! Did you ever think that more roads in certain areas may actually open up additional whitewater opportunities? I can think of many examples North of Superior where I'm from that this is the case...

 

Two sides to every issue...

This has nothing to do with roads,. It is about the potential for significant modifications to stream beds that will require no special permit. If your favourite trout stream is declared not navigable, then dams, wiers, booms or bridges will no longer require a permit to construct.

I'm not worried about a few cribs. I'm worried about new dams, wiers, and low bridges that not only limit the ability to paddle a river, but can become significant hazards when the water is higher. This is not just a whitewater issue. Landowners that want to keep you from floating a river through their property could use the new regs to put up all kinds of obstructions that are currently not allowed.

You will donate a lot less spinners if you go to a single hook instead of a treble. Switch out the treble for a small streamer and get into the wood with it.

Transport Canada is in the process of re-writing the Navigable Waterways Protection Act. In essence, they are looking at removing the application process for dams, booms, bridges and wiers on smaller streams to "speed up development". A concrete example of the result of this change: forestry companies would no longer need to apply to build dozens of small bridges across a river or stream, rendering it essentially not navigable by canoe, kayak or small fishing boat.

The whitewater community is mobilising over this issue, for obvious reasons. I believe that this threatens fishing use of streams as well. Imagine all those floatable tribs with private bridges or other obstructions on them. There will be no enforcable consideration of water level or safety or limit to access.

Navigability of small streams and rivers is an important part of our cultural heritage. Speak up! Contact your MP, and the committee that is heading up these changes.

List of MPs:http://webinfo.parl.gc.ca/MembersOfParliament/MainMPsCompleteList.aspx?TimePeriod=Current&Language=E

Committee clerk:

Maxime Ricard

Committee Clerk / Greffier de comité

Standing Committee on Transport, Infrastructure and Communities / Comité permanent des transports, de l’infrastructure et des collectivités

Procedural Services / Services de la procédure

House of Commons / Chambre des communes

131 rue Queen St., Ottawa

Tel. / tél. : 613-996-4663

Fax / téléc. : 613-996-1626

[email protected]

If you can't find the 1/2 oz ones, get the 3/8 and crimp a sinker onto the shank of the hook right behind the skirt. Often times, this works better than a 1/2 oz spinnerbait: runs true and gives a more compact profile.

You will lose casting distance using a spinning reel on a casting rod. The larger guides on a spinning rod compensate for the way line comes off of a spinning reel, reducing drag and increasing casting distance. I would try it first before cutting off the trigger.

Somethings not right. I have been fishing 20 lb PP for 3 years with no problems at all. Maybe you got a bad batch? 90% of the time, no leader is required. I find it amusing that folks think they need an "invisible" leader when they are throwing baits with 3 big treble hooks hanging off their belly: fish are not that discriminating.

Definitly go with one that has adjustable declination and a mirror, then learn how to use it.

I am spending the weekend in the Killbear area and wouldn't mind getting in some river fishing. Anybody feel like sharing a spot or two?

Some great fishing up that way as well: not as good for musky, but better for trout.

If your using them for bass, save your $ on the scent: doesn't make a bit of difference. There's only 3 colour you need for bass: something dark, something light and something in between.

Lakes up here will probably be open by Sunday: especially if we get wind. I have never seen ice go so quickly. Lots of lakes were white and tight to shore last weekend. The last few days they have gone to half-open and dark ice.

Your timing should be fine. The last 2 years we have had some of our best shallow-water laker fishing in late may on the southern edge of the Algonquin highland.

Be prepared to get skunked, even with great advice and good presentation. Trout fishing in that area can be incredibly fickle. There have been times that I have had a great couple of hours on a lake - 10 fish/hour - then it's like someone throws a switch and turns the fish off. The next few hours you can throw anything you want and your just exercising your arm.

Two presentations I haven't seen that work well:

-fly/spoon combination: great for trolling, but tough to cast

-Rocket Shad: the tiny, but heavy spinnerbait that Strike king makes. It's way better in structure than an inline, and both lakers and specks will hit them.

A boat is a definite asset on Kash: it will allow you to access the entire chain of lakes: Head, Grass, Kash, Soyers, Canning. Kash is a pretty good multi-species lake, not really a stand-out for any one species. It is probably best known in this area for it walleye fishing. If you get up early, you will have very little company: fish in the evenings and it can be bumper-boats on the hot spots. Drop me a line when you are coming up. I could show you some good bass spots on that chain.

I don't think the question was "leader/no leader", it was about attaching directly to the eye instead of the split ring. They both work. Usually, tieing directly to the eye results in a tighter wobble.

LOL Doug.... ....I got a snap weight kit for Christmas this year....I used a buddies kit last fall on Quinte instead of riggers and was pretty successful .....

 

So, what is the main reason that some people still use steel line??? I can see using leadcore because it's color coded and gives you a fairly good indication of your depth, depending on your trolling speed, but I'm always curious when I hear someone talking about trolling with steel line especially nowadays when you can use downriggers, dipsy divers, etc, to get you to the desired depths.......

 

Steve

Good question. I think it might be a 'style' thing with some guys. One of my friends swears by handlining copper line for lakers, even if I outfish him. It looks like a pain, especially when he is bringing in a fish and the bottom of the canoe starts filling up with a big, snarly pile of copper wire.

I can get down to about 60' using a downrigger clip with various size weights on it. I just clip it right to my line, then attach the appropriate weight to the d-rig clip with a snap. I put the d-rig clip about 10-20' above the lure and troll that way. When a fish is on, you reel in until the clip is in reach, unclip it, and land the fish with no weight between you and the fish. Low tech, but it works. My favourite is a 1/2 and 1/2 wobbler with a fly trailer.

In the spring when they are shallow, I troll shad-raps or pins minnows, but prefer to cast bucktails.

It isn't in the same price range, but you should look at the Mad River Synergy. It's sort of a SOT kayak/canoe hybrid. The 14' would be plenty for your weight. Mad River Synergy 14

Well, personal taste is personal taste....I happen to love the taste of rainbow trout.

Do kayakers drink beer? What do you think we put on our granola?

Anybody know of a decent place to get a line in the water in the Oakville area? I will be visiting inlaws and wouldn't mind getting out early on Sunday: shore or river. Can I bribe anyone with some trout or walleye jigs?

This one does. A spinnerbait version of the 'Dr Death' pattern. Walleye like it in clear water.

thanks for all the advice.

 

i really enjoy finesse fishing so i would probably be fishing jigs. and i would say relatively shallow (less than 15 ft) and in regards to line i can go either mono or braid, but have been doing more powerpro these days.

 

but more than anything, it was more of a general tackle question. perhaps to better state the question would be to look for a rod for the type of fishing i mentioned in this post.

thanks

I fish a lot of jigs as well. If you are in less than 15 ft of water, then 1/16 - 1/4 will be fine for weight. For a light-jig rod, I like a medium to fast taper L or ML. I really like a 7' rod for lighter jigs, but would love to find a 7 1/2 to 8' with a fast taper. A longer rod gives me more casting distance and helps to manage line if I am fishing current. Braid will increase the sensitivity dramatically. If you think it makes a difference, you can alway use a flouro/mono leader in clear water.

I would second the PVC case for your existing rods. I did this for taking a rod on kayaking trips. A 3 1/2' section of 3" PVC takes up no space and you can pile anything on top of it in the back of the car. It is only a foot longer than most travel rods, and bombproof.

Here's a question for any of you heavyweights. I weigh in at 225 on a lean day, so with gear (and clothes) I'm gonna run 235-240 minimum. I've been out in big sea kayaks but never these little bitty ones I see around here. What do I need to stay on top of the water. I'm not afraid of getting wet but what's the point of using the kayak if I need my dive mask to see what's going on around me.

 

My best fishing buddy is a scrawny little dude (mebbe 150 on a fat day) who loves fishing from his homemade kayaks (and one foldable) but he apparently has no clue what I should have. To him kayaks are just tools, not something you actually think about.

 

Thanks for any advice.

 

JF

That boat would be a bit small for your size. Every kayak has an overall reccomended weight limit. The kayak usually starts getting squirrely at, or slightly above that weight limit. Figure your weight, cold weather paddling gear, tackle, beer and go from there.