lazyarcher

I just sold a 2003 Lund 1800 SS  Alaskan w 90hp Yamaha, decked out. The hull was like the day it came out of the factory...nothing loose, nothing leaked...and its been on Lake Erie and Lake St.Clair a lot. Amazing hull construction. The only drawback with the early-mid 2000's with Lund is they used CRAP for wood in the floors and transom. I replaced 2 of the floor sections where the seat bases bolted through, and replaced the transom. The wood wasnt sealed epoxied glassed, etc...so check carefully with a used one. Lund changed the materials mid-2000's and I think they are way better now.

I used polyester waxed resin as thats what Heritage Marine told me to use..its what they make all of their transoms with...and it is waterproof..its used to waterproof wood. Epoxy has a stronger adhesive bond.

6 minutes ago, BillM said:

lazyarcher, great job man!!!   I'm dreading this on my 2003 Pro Sport.   I found one spot of paint bubbling at the start of the season, other then that the transom is a solid as a rock (Won't flex at all when boucing the F115 on the back).  I think I'll do this job while the transom is in relatively good shape.   I'd rather have it out in one piece then wait until it's coming out in chunks.    

Mine was way gone--I could see it flexing with the motor but didnt recognize it. I pulled the cap off the transom and could shove a 25 " sharpened metal rod all the way down...ouch!!!

I love Lunds but man did they use crap wood in the early-mid 2000s. Ive also replaced some of the floors in my Alaskan...rotted where the seat bases bolt through. The wood there was just as untreated and rotten as the transom. I understand they're better now

47 minutes ago, Pigeontroller said:

This thread shows how 'do-able' this is. Helps if you have a nice garage/shop I realize. I removed my Yamaha F90 and hung it from the rafters in my garage, If that's more than you wanna do you can take it to your marine mechanic, pay them to R&R/store it.

Its absolutely do-able. You're right with the engine though...it could be a bit much if you dont have the equipment to handle the weight. Taking the boat to a shop and having them remove and store the engine is a great idea. The rest is just time and labor which is do-able!!

I did the transom on my 2004 Lund Alaskan 1800 a couple winters ago. Im lucky to have a large enough shop and a beam/chainfall to help with removal and installation.

Heres the transom coming out..in one piece for a template. Can you believe how rotten it is?? Crap wood with no type of glassing or sealant

Heres new marine grade 3/4" ply ready for the template

2  pieces glued and screwed together with PL construction adhesive to get 1 1/2" width

Polyester resin 2 coats applied

Then glassed

lots of resin, ready to be trimmed

lots of 4200 for everything

transom in, waterproof sealant over the top 1/4, clamped to seal

Splash well reinstalled, everything that was out reprimed

sealed and painted 

Motor reinstalled, 4200 used on every bolt, screw, rivet

The only blurp was I didnt calculate quite enough for the added thickness of my extra glass/resin job. It did fit snug, but will as others have said, out live/out last its owner.