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shimano19

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Posts posted by shimano19

  1. You should run your depth in manual. This way if it will cycle threw 0 to 30 ft and not 0 - 10,0000 ft.

     

    Don't run power threw fuse block with all other wiring.

     

    The correct way is to run dedicated wires from unit to starting battery. So with my bass boat 2 wires from front to back and 2 more from console to starting battery. I also wrap areas with electric tape for a little more protection. Also my trolling motor wires go down the other side.

     

    If I was to up grade these to dual console units and dual units up front I would up grade to 6 gauge wire and a stainless buse up to my console and run all units off this.

     

    1 common mistake is to wrap transducer cable in a ball and tape. This makes a coil increasing frequency's.

     

    2 different makes Lowrance are 200 and Hummingbird 187 frequency . You need to keep transducer cable separate as much as possible and tape area's where not possible. I would run cables down transom at different locations.

    If I ran it at manual 0-30' then when I'm in 5' of water my sonar will show past bottom to 30' correct? I'd be loosing a lot of screen. As of right now I have both sonar power wires going to a battery (not my starting, they have their own separate). I will take a look at how my wiring is done through the boat and try to clean it up or separate

  2. Thanks for all the tips. I will start with the transducer tilt and then relocate. As for the wiring are you referring to keeping the wires away from other sonar wires because of interference? Or are you saying not to mount more than 1 sonar to a power source. Long time ago I used to have my TM and 1 sonar on a single battery. As soon as I turned on the TM my sonar would get interference.

  3. Usually when I drive my Gen 2 hds 7 will cut out and not show a depth reading. I've noticed this on all my sonars but it happens more consitantly on this one. My boat goes a max of 25mph. My Gen 1 hds reads a lot more frequently while driving. When they do cut out it takes a bit to get back on track and start reading again. (Up to 1 min or have to reboot) Both transducers are at the same height and level. Any ideas on if it can be improved some how?

  4. We're looking to buy a small cottage or a trailer on some land up north on a lake. It's mostly a place for my dad to spend time when he retires and can take a boat out by himself. He loves fishing walleye, pike and bass. We fish the north channel near Spanish Ontario and that's one of his favourite places to be. It's a 5 hour drive from us which isn't an issue for him. I was also thinking nippissing. The reason I'm posting is because I'd like to hear where some of you guys would get a place. Me and my brother also primarily fish for musky once the season opens so it's nice to have Musky in the lake but it's about my dad not us. We want to stay away from busy areas like the kawarthas.

  5. Does this PD V2 TM have a i-Pilot installed on it because if so the GPS unit will draw power all the time and needs to be unplugged whenever not being used.

    No it does not have i pilot installed. When you plug in the TM you hear it click as if it's powering up. It can be ran while in the stored or locked position. I'm not sure if they all do that but my terrora have to be deployed before any of the electronics would work.

  6. The best would be to disconnect the battery positive connection(s) to the devices they are powering and then connect an ammeter between the battery positive terminal and the cables that were just disconnected. That will tell you whether there is any parasitic draw on the battery. Any more then .025 amp draw will kill any battery or batteries in a few days.

    If you do find excessive draw, then one item at a time disconnect it from the battery; until you see the draw drop to well below the .025 amp or drop to zero draw.

    If there is no draw found, have both batteries tested independently; there is a small change that one of the batteries has an internal short and drawing both batteries down.

     

    Dan.

    Okay I'll give this a shot, if the onboard charger or TM is drawing power what do you do.
  7. You have a load on the battery somewhere. You need to remove power consumers one at a time with an amp meter in line to see which circuit is draining the battery. Have the batteries load tested to make sure they hold a charge and that the charge is not just a surface charge. Any auto place should be able to provide this service if they sell batteries. Measuring voltage is not a good test for this type of trouble shooting.

     

    Art

    I have 1 onboard charger and the trolling motor on those 2 batteries. I'll check it out. Maybe the tm being plugged in when not in use

  8. Try and fish it on the warmest day, that extra warmth might get them active. Last sunday I saw my first pod of carp and they were actively feeding when I was targeting pike. Also don't forget to chum chum chum, chumming the day before helps a lot too.

    I always chum, never leave home without a bucket of ground bait. The first time I went it was fairly warm and the 2nd was full sun plus 10, walked around the pond aswell..not much going on

  9.  

    Carp usually spawn in May, so if you are catching them from July to Sept, it doesn't sound like they are there just to spawn.

     

    Radio tracking of carp in the Toronto harbour area indicate that many carp winter over in the inlets on the sand spit; so they don't seem to require deep water to winter over.

    I know they spawn in may but I was curious if you guys thought they were just hanging out in the area until it gets to cold or if they leave. The flow is fairly decent in the pond from the river flowing, it dosent seem to have any weed life other than some bullrushes and algee.

  10. I'm wondering Mike if perhaps they've migrated away from this area during the colder months? In lake situations, I've always thought they headed to cluster together in deeper spots.

     

    Having said that, I know for sure their metabolism slows way down in cooler temps and they just don't feed as much. But they still do feed as dedicated carpers are able to catch 'em 12 months of the year in Ontario.

     

    Neat to have a pond like that close to you. I'd definitely give it a go a few more times to see if you have yourself year-round playground there. Maybe use smaller offerings as your hookbait and avoid chumming in excess.

    Yes I have heard they do seek out deeper water after spawning and in the colder months, the reason I ask this is because there is no deep water available to them in this stretch unless they travel the 60km back to the lake and I would assume there are easier to access spawning grounds for them in the lake or at the mouth of the river, so I wouldn't see why they would travel this far then go back. I will definatly keep putting in work to see if they do Infact stay within the vicinity of the pond.

  11. I fished a spot near my house last year quite a bit, with the days of highest numbers in mid april. I think they would stay in there? Might be a little too cold for them to be very active right now. After the next week or twos worth of rain, they should wake back up. What sort of sizes are they in the pond?

    They average 6-10lb, biggest has been 15lb

  12. Goodmorning everyone, just had a question I wanted to run by you guys. There is a pond I fish for carp near my house, is max depth is 5-6 fow. it has a river feeding in (about 10ft wide) and a very small stream feeding out. The closest main lake is about 55-60km away, with 1-2 small ponds along the way up-stream to the lake. Do you think these carp stay in here year long or migrate that distance just for the spawn? Ive only started fishing it last year from July- sept with good numbers of fish landed. I have also tried it 3 weeks ago and yesterday with no success. (1-3 hours each time.)

  13. I say this every time this type of question comes up; if you're somewhat tech savvy, consider a navionics + t-box setup. http://www.sonarphone.mobi/

     

    There's also the wi-fish by Raymarine, it uses CHIRP to give improved image.

     

    For $300 you have a setup capable of doing what only $2000+ Humminbird units can do. That is, chart bathymetric maps on the fly. Plus you don't have to pay for the "chip". Speaking of chips, those are archaic rip-offs, just like paying for GPS map updates yearly.

     

    There are some downsides of course, but for the price, totally worth it.

    So basically you can hook this thing up to an iPad and connect to the app you download? You said it will have everything a high end sonar has? Sounds interesting

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