msp Posted June 8 Report Share Posted June 8 I’m putting together an old tinner Jon boat for my son and I’m in the process of patching some holes in the bottom. I searched a bunch of YouTube videos on patching with aluminum brazing rods. Did the whole routine with the MAP gas , aluminum rods ect…….. thought I did a decent job but after moving the boat around the aluminum welds just popped off. going to give it another go and make sure I heat up the aluminum really hot hoping for a better stick. does anyone have experience with this ? oh and here is my son with a massive crappie from this spring 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HTHM Posted June 9 Report Share Posted June 9 I'd suggest using rivets, sealer and a patch instead. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Posted June 9 Report Share Posted June 9 I've done it on a couple of aluminum boats, have to follow direction to a T. Only use stainless brushes for cleaning, not brass or the old style iron brush. Apply enough heat to the spot your brazing, not the rods, they will flow right in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freshtrax Posted June 9 Report Share Posted June 9 I drilled ends of crack, brazed then slathered in 3m5200 then riveted a patch over top with closed end rivits. Held up for 1 season so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pics Posted June 9 Report Share Posted June 9 Up north they patch with a piece of aluminum fastened with bolts and sealed with silicone.. sometimes a stashed boat would be poked full of holes with an axe because the outfitters hated people fishing their Hotspot.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillM Posted June 9 Report Share Posted June 9 3M 5200 + rivets and patches is the way I'd go. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrowMan Posted June 9 Report Share Posted June 9 5 minutes ago, BillM said: 3M 5200 + rivets and patches is the way I'd go. Agree...as the old adage goes "they rivet aircraft, not weld them" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Willis Posted June 10 Report Share Posted June 10 To quote my friend Crowman, rivets are the way to go. I hope I am not steering you in the wrong direction or contradicting any one else's comments and I know there is an abundance of sealers available but I discovered a sealant in the sixties called seal all, comes in a red and yellow tube at automotive stores. The stuff is amazing. Water proof, gas and oil proof. Our old rusted out 62 Mercury Comet developed a bad gas leak at the bottom of the tank, without even trying to dry it off I just put some on and the leak it stopped immediately and out lasted the rest of the car. Another time about ten years ago I got some bad gas at the pump in my 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited so much water I had to have it towed home. Crawled underneath drilled a hole in the gas tank and let it drain, cleaned it up and put three thin layers of seal all over the drilled hole and beyond and it is still holding today. So if it sealed them and you are concerned about the seams etc it should water proof your boat. It's reasonably priced and easy to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msp Posted June 11 Author Report Share Posted June 11 Thanks guys ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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