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What size in line fuse should I use ?


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First off, YUPPPPPPPPPP, the old 30 lb thrust was weak . The new one is so sweet for my float boat . I could run full and get 3.7 mph. What a hole shot,,,,,,,,,,,,,LMAO . That was on glass waters this morning . The only issue is,the power cord is about 1ft short . So I will splice it and figured since I am going to,I might as well add an in line fuse for safety . So ,what size fuse am I going to need ? Also, is there a meter I can rig up for battery power ?

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1 hour ago, misfish said:

First off, YUPPPPPPPPPP, the old 30 lb thrust was weak . The new one is so sweet for my float boat . I could run full and get 3.7 mph. What a hole shot,,,,,,,,,,,,,LMAO . That was on glass waters this morning . The only issue is,the power cord is about 1ft short . So I will splice it and figured since I am going to,I might as well add an in line fuse for safety . So ,what size fuse am I going to need ? Also, is there a meter I can rig up for battery power ?

I’d put in a relay fuse with a spare in your tool kit. I just bought these gauges to monitor my house and trolling batts, not installed yet though.  https://www.amazon.ca/PerfecTech-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Automobiles-Motorcycle/dp/B01LZJZL6R/ref=asc_df_B01LZJZL6R/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459081477310&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7719460791744150519&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000995&hvtargid=pla-670607828061&psc=1
 

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If you don't know what the top amp draw is for your motor Google it.
Then get an inline fuse for the rating.
Also be sure to use the same guage wire if you're extending the length, but don't extend it more than you need.

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33 minutes ago, Spiel said:

If you don't know what the top amp draw is for your motor Google it.
Then get an inline fuse for the rating.
Also be sure to use the same guage wire if you're extending the length, but don't extend it more than you need.

I will be taking some cable from the old one Chris, so same gauge.:good:

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6 minutes ago, smitty55 said:

My old 28lb mk always shows battery power when I turn it off, don't the newer ones have that function as well?

I did not get the battery meter one. I would of if they had one. Like I said,pick,ns are slim to non.

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Maybe get a 40-50 amp breaker with a reset button? If something accidentally shorts out and after the accident/short is found, push the breaker switch and you're back going again. There are also auto resets that once the short is removed the circuit will be back on line. I would suggest marine type applications. A bit more money but well worth it. You'll not have to worry about spare fuses.

Dan. 

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47 minutes ago, Sinker said:

In my experience, the fuse or breaker is the weak point that leads to problems. I removed mine. Straight to the battery. Zero issues for over a decade. 

 

S. 

After looking  and reading, I decided to just splice and add 1.5 ft of 8 Guage wire with ends. 

Thanks all . 

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5 hours ago, misfish said:

After looking  and reading, I decided to just splice and add 1.5 ft of 8 Guage wire with ends. 

3 or 4 inches are all you need for a fusible link, like what you're thinking. Just have a jumper wire with alligator clips; so that if whatever short that burnt the link is remedied; you'll have a way to reconnect the circuit and get your ass going again.

electrical_charge_sparks_wires_danger_dr 

Dan. 

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On 8/11/2021 at 11:02 AM, Sinker said:

In my experience, the fuse or breaker is the weak point that leads to problems. I removed mine. Straight to the battery. Zero issues for over a decade. 

 

S. 

Personal experience, my minkotta plug loosened, the wires began slipping out, resistance built up as less and less copper was making a connection, I ran the motor on 10 doing some autocharting for a period of about 8 minutes. my wire lit on fire and melted the insulation and my fuse blew. I got home safely. Was glad the fuse ended up blowing before the fire got bigger in the hull of my boat where I couldn’t see it.

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My breakers are 50 amp on the battery. I never reset them, just move the wire forward taking the breaker out.

They pop easier every time so I replace after the first pop. You can get them at stero shops also.

Chewing thick mate weed is where they pop most so not really issue on Simcoe and running them on 100% or high bypass is risky.

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21 hours ago, AKRISONER said:

Personal experience, my minkotta plug loosened, the wires began slipping out, resistance built up as less and less copper was making a connection, I ran the motor on 10 doing some autocharting for a period of about 8 minutes. my wire lit on fire and melted the insulation and my fuse blew. I got home safely. Was glad the fuse ended up blowing before the fire got bigger in the hull of my boat where I couldn’t see it.

No plug, no fuse, just straight to the battery. Simple, and effective. Most of my use is slow trolling, auto pilot or spot lock, so im not ripping thru thick weeds chasing bass, or using high power really ever. Anyways, its worked for me for a long, long time with no issues. 

 

S. 

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4 hours ago, Garnet said:

My breakers are 50 amp on the battery. I never reset them, just move the wire forward taking the breaker out.

They pop easier every time so I replace after the first pop. You can get them at stero shops also.

Chewing thick mate weed is where they pop most so not really issue on Simcoe and running them on 100% or high bypass is risky.

I was doing that one day pre-fishing for a tournament at a lake in New York, heard a funny sound and smell, one of the spade connectors on my foot control had melted in half. No fuse or breaker, luckily I had parts with me to fix it.

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On 8/11/2021 at 11:02 AM, Sinker said:

In my experience, the fuse or breaker is the weak point that leads to problems. I removed mine. Straight to the battery. Zero issues for over a decade. 

 

S. 

Just use a penny, all will be well.

Doug

PS)  Do you have a fire extinguisher on board?  (asking for a friend)

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The breakers at the battery are the weak link. If the troller quits you hope to have light tester or multi meter. Barring that you take back lead off breaker and move to front if troller starts working you can try the little black reset button. I.ve had little success on resetting breaker and they get easier to pop if they rest.

i always had spare breaker with me but it was risk reward if I changed it on water but certainly changed it before next tournament day.

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And in heavy breeze your troller is popping out of water adds to risk reward.

I no a guy that always said with alligater clips I will just unhook them. Finally happen to him ,dburned all the skin off thum and the melted rudder burned fingers close to bone.

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