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Chevy Silverado 4X4 shifter siezed.


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I have a 2011 Chevy Silverado 1/2 ton 4x4 pickup, my wife bought for me brand new. The 4 wheel drive shifter is on the floor not a selector on the dash. Last month when we got some snow and that snow turned to ice my wheel was spinning in 2 wheel (1 wheel actually) I went to put her into 4 high and the shifter wouldn't move at all. I know better to give it a whack with a hammer. I took it into my guy that is ran by 2 brothers in thier late 30's, young puppies, and I have never had an issue with them. Mr. Mechanic said the linkage is siezed, almost welded together and it is going to be big bucks to free it. He did not give me a price and told me to trade the truck in. Any suggestions other than to dump the truck. I was surprised at his suggestion. I'm always telling people like my wife to use her paddle shifter once in a while, use it or lose it. I hardly drove last summer for a number of reasons I never had her in 4 wheel drive, my bad but to sieze up 100%??? Brother #2 said the bottom of the truck is covered in rust. I would expect that as did not get Z Bart, do they still do that? I crawled under the truck with a welding hammer and the frame is solid as a rock, I digress, again.

Dan are you out there? Come in Dan, over. 

I have learned that if a whack with a hammer don't fix somethin you got yerself an electrical problem. 

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51 minutes ago, Crimsongulf said:

A little touch of a blue wrench would probably help also.

Plastic grommets don't get along with the heat that the "blue wrench" would throw at it. LOL

I'd likely start by disconnecting the shifter linkage and then try and shift the T case at the T case's lever. If it'll move down there, you'll know that the problem is external of the T case. 

The shifter linkage uses ball sockets to connect the linkage to the shifter arm and the T case lever. These ball sockets like seizing up; If that's the case you'll likely need a replacement linkage. You may get them off with out breaking them; but by the time you get the socket cleaned up and remove the rust build up. They be so loose on the pivot ball that they'll fall off?

4X4.JPG.6bace30b3272b69149c03aa0436028ad.JPG

If this is the proper diagram for your truck, number 6 in is the linkage I'm talking about.

It may also be the shifter assembly itself that's seized up? That would be something I'd need to see before commenting on it? Like the others have said soak the crap out off everything you think might be part of the shifting mechanism.

If you're up for a ride to London; I'd have a look at it and see if we can get it moving again? I'll call your visit and introductory offer; if there's no parts required; I'll do the labor for you.

D&S Auto 90 Bessemer d. Unit #6 London 519-681-3844. I'm about to leave for the day; but I'll be back here tomorrow morning by 7am.

Dan.

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, DanD said:

Plastic grommets don't get along with the heat that the "blue wrench" would throw at it. LOL

I'd likely start by disconnecting the shifter linkage and then try and shift the T case at the T case's lever. If it'll move down there, you'll know that the problem is external of the T case. 

The shifter linkage uses ball sockets to connect the linkage to the shifter arm and the T case lever. These ball sockets like seizing up; If that's the case you'll likely need a replacement linkage. You may get them off with out breaking them; but by the time you get the socket cleaned up and remove the rust build up. They be so loose on the pivot ball that they'll fall off?

4X4.JPG.6bace30b3272b69149c03aa0436028ad.JPG

If this is the proper diagram for your truck, number 6 in is the linkage I'm talking about.

It may also be the shifter assembly itself that's seized up? That would be something I'd need to see before commenting on it? Like the others have said soak the crap out off everything you think might be part of the shifting mechanism.

If you're up for a ride to London; I'd have a look at it and see if we can get it moving again? I'll call your visit and introductory offer; if there's no parts required; I'll do the labor for you.

D&S Auto 90 Bessemer d. Unit #6 London 519-681-3844. I'm about to leave for the day; but I'll be back here tomorrow morning by 7am.

Dan.

 

 

 

I can definitely tell you are in the business.  Prior to selling and retiring in 2017 we had four tire and service centers.  As far as my blue wrench comment, I would do what I call the "wave" just trying to get it warmed up and not cherry red.  Of course, I also didn't go to the effort of looking up diagrams.

 

Kudos

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The only reason I commented on the blue wrench is; my boss at the time use to always say that when he saw me walking towards the torches. Look out people Dan's going for the blue wrench! LOL You know just as well as I do; a torch is a mechanic's (sorry I mean Technician's LOL) best friend in the shop.

Dan.  

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Thanks for all the suggestions, greatly appreciated. I crawled under the truck yesterday as I had a can of liquid wrench, I put down a pile of old towels and got down onto my 1 knee. Pain shot up to my brain and then back down through the "illia tibia facia tendon". Once my heart rate dropped below 120 I pulled myself up on both feet and finally rose from my lazy boy 3 hours latter.  Dan you lost me at "disconnect". The truck is going in next week for a second opinion to a pals that had a few shops and is retired. I don't like bugging him because it's like the many "freinds" that bug errr ask me to develop them a profit loss projection and a new business plan. A few Lake Erie Walleye trips earn me a second opinion.DSCF1632.JPG.bdcfc518f36c346583571cf7408c86e1.JPG

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1 minute ago, Fisherman said:

Last testing they did, it was found the Seafoam Deep Creep turned out the best results for loosening corroded stuff.  

Thanks Fisherman. As far as large Walleye tasting, well better than a Carp (yes I have eaten Carp) but we have to know that a 10 year old Lake Erie or Bay of Quinte Pic is a few years old not 5 or older if what I have read and told is true. 

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