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I think a lot of your issues with corrosion is because you are connecting your ring type connectors which is one type of metal with a stainless bolt or split copper connector. Two different types of metal connected together, are going to set up a barrier which will result in corrosion. Your split rings on the Garmin end of wire are one material and your brass or stainless bolt is another. Problems will follow definitely.

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I used these on my boat. Soldered the pieces to the wires, shrinkwrapped, then when I put the wires into the plugs, I shrinkwrapped those too, twice. Been that way for years and never had an issue. You can get larger sizes of these quick connects that would work on your Garmin ends as well. Any electrical supply shop will have them. My battery guy called them forklift plugs. You could also get a block similar to what Dan posted above, but way better quality from a car audio shop. They have great 12v connectors and the like that are gold plated etc....they aren't cheap, but do it once right and be done. 

 

S. 

20210106_092952.jpg

20210106_092945.jpg

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6 hours ago, AKRISONER said:

Dan I thought about simply using a terminal box but then realized that I may run into issues due to the large ring terminal sizes that I am using.

The fix for that are called washers.

Sorry but you're over thinking this. Make tight and water resistant concoctions as best you can and forget about it for the next 4 or 5 years. After that revisit it and clean or replace connections. I don't give a rats ass what you do to insulate these connections; mother nature will get in there eventually and have her way with it.

Copper wire, connector (whatever) composition, electricity and moister; there's going to be corrosion eventually; just deal with it during annual maintenance.

Dan.

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I've been reading this thread and wondering what's the point.

Why the push to remove plug, any problems with the plug you are just moving to a suspect connection.

And strollers break unplug remove from boat and get repair.

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2 hours ago, Garnet said:

I've been reading this thread and wondering what's the point.

Why the push to remove plug, any problems with the plug you are just moving to a suspect connection.

And strollers break unplug remove from boat and get repair.

Have to agree with this. Just seems more practical imo. 

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3 hours ago, Garnet said:

I've been reading this thread and wondering what's the point.

Why the push to remove plug, any problems with the plug you are just moving to a suspect connection.

And strollers break unplug remove from boat and get repair.

The new motor doesn’t come with a plug. You can buy one but that would also entail totally re-fabricating the access panel that I have on the front of my boat. Plus the plug is an extra $110usd for something I will have no use for. I’ve got a battery shut off back at my batteries to cut power if need be. 
 

also see earlier story about my experience with plugs and the set screws attempting to hold 6 guage wire.

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But you are thinking of installing a bolt and covering it with rudder. Now the only way to test connection is forcing hole in cable leaving a source for moister.

That you installed plug badly previously means you won't do that again. And the the hubble plug few screws and all fixed up.

And it is funny you spend thousands of dollars on trolling motor and draw the line at $110. 

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On 1/6/2021 at 9:40 AM, Sinker said:

Yep, this right here is the way to do it and never have to worry about it again. 

S. 

The only thing with a split bolt is after you ruse rubber tape to fill in the voids and then electrical tape there is no way to re-tighten without taking it all apart and it does get messy.  I have used hundreds of these to connect electrical services - since then the industry has moved away from these to an in-line crimp connection.

Personally - I would recommend two methods.  Re-terminate the two conductors with cable lugs (with the same hole opening) and then bolt them together and use heat shrink tube over the entire connection, or my personal choice would be a multi-tap connector (two barrel) and terminate both conductors.  The wire range is #14-#4AWG copper or aluminum and you can visually inspect the connection and retighten if required without any issues.

https://www.panduit.com/en/products/wire-termination/lugs-splices-split-bolts-accessories/mechanical-compression-lugs-splices/pcsb4212y.html

 

 

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9 hours ago, Garnet said:

But you are thinking of installing a bolt and covering it with rudder. Now the only way to test connection is forcing hole in cable leaving a source for moister.

That you installed plug badly previously means you won't do that again. And the the hubble plug few screws and all fixed up.

And it is funny you spend thousands of dollars on trolling motor and draw the line at $110. 

You make a good point. 
 

the bad connection on the Kota although I’d normally blame myself was actually how poorly the Kota receptacle was designed. I ended up scrapping the thing and switching to an industrial locking  240 style set up at the recommendation of an electrician that I know. Sure enough the set screw set up on those made wayyyy more sense and didn’t cause fraying and made a really tight clean connection.

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the generosity of the fishing community and specifically some of the members of this forum gives me faith in humanity.

410001661 (i hope its ok I identified you if not let me know and i will remove this!)  approached me and helped me out immensely. Just a fantastic helpful generous person. I cant thank him enough, kudos to him. These kind of acts are what keep this community alive!

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