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Looking to replace Garage doors ALL DONE!


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Any members in the GTA have had this service done recently. I have two standard 8x7, currently wood. Would like to go with steel insulated.

 Any company reference and approximate cost would be appreciated. This is my first replacement so any information will be welcome.

thanks. 

Edited by ketchenany
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I doubt Doan's Overhead Doors in Lindsay will come that far out but I just placed an order with them.  6-8 weeks to be installed as they are that busy.  $3200 after tax for a 1.5 wide new Garaga door and opener to give you some idea to try and figure out a cost.  

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I'm getting mine done right now and really the sky's the limit.  IE. insulated glass can run $600 or more per door for example.  I'm in for approx $8k for 3 high quality 8' doors w/insulated glass installed.  Using existing openers.

I recommend that you pick the style(s) you like and get different quotes.  Then you can make an informed decision.

Good luck :)

 

p.

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Have to ask, are you planning on having the rails, etc changed too?  If not, go to HD or Lowes and check and see if they have the same size in insulated metal,  that would save a fair bit.  Rails can be adjusted side to side and front to rear to get the correct fit.  If you do find a correct sizing,  it's not hard to take out the old panels and insert the new.

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1 hour ago, Fisherman said:

Have to ask, are you planning on having the rails, etc changed too?  

My install is booked for the 22nd of this month and they are doing ALL new hardware for me from rails to opener in my cost of $3200 after tax for a 1.5 wide 

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14 minutes ago, GBW said:

My install is booked for the 22nd of this month and they are doing ALL new hardware for me from rails to opener in my cost of $3200 after tax for a 1.5 wide 

thank all for your input, much appreciated.
 

I’ve had quotes up to $3,800 + tax. And anywhere in between for the similar door. R16 and not common colours really tally up the $s. 

I’m looking at a quote for steel insulated with ALL NEW hardware, installed. At just under $2,000. Taxes will see. :)  After a face to face I’ll decide which direction I’ll go, but there seems to a lot of variance in prices, more profit, more overhead who knows. Some came back with just numbers, other forwarded the manufactures (garaga)quote and plugged in the dealer/installer name, others sent colour brochures with different models . . . With prices per model . . We’ll see how this transforms the doors I have now still close Well but being wood are going down fast. 
 

I learned a lot from doing my basement and shopping around can save a lot of money.

 

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Why couldn't you just buy a regular door and apply Styrofoam sheets to the back side of the panels yourself? I fully admit that I have no experience with insulated doors, but aren't they simply insulated from the back side? Wouldn't it be cheaper to do this yourself after a trip to HD and a tube of adhesive?

HH

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HH my wooden doors are cracking and starting to rot on the bottom panel Glueing foam in the back is not practical as there are hinges and bolts that stick out. The new doors have the insulation inside the doors panels, you don’t see it. Also the panels are tongue and grove for a more tight closure.  If you have to replace them might as well do it right. I have a bedroom above the garage and this will help a lot. Mind you when I get in my car the temp is always around 3 or 5  on the coldest days, I want a a bit better. 

 

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Just another thought for you but windows in the garage doors is a really nice option and you can get thermal windows if you want.

I had my windows put at eye level and am very happy with the set-up.

 

Edited by lew
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4 hours ago, ketchenany said:

HH my wooden doors are cracking and starting to rot on the bottom panel Glueing foam in the back is not practical as there are hinges and bolts that stick out. The new doors have the insulation inside the doors panels, you don’t see it. Also the panels are tongue and grove for a more tight closure.  If you have to replace them might as well do it right. I have a bedroom above the garage and this will help a lot. Mind you when I get in my car the temp is always around 3 or 5  on the coldest days, I want a a bit better. 

 

My original door was wood as well. It faces west and as a result, it takes the most weather and sun. I knew it was time to change when my son shot a ball hockey ball through the lower pane.

As I said, I didn't know the difference between doors....

Good luck with your purchase....

HH

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18 minutes ago, Headhunter said:

My original door was wood as well. It faces west and as a result, it takes the most weather and sun. I knew it was time to change when my son shot a ball hockey ball through the lower pane.

As I said, I didn't know the difference between doors....

Good luck with your purchase....

HH

Thanks HH. I looked at a model that was steel insulated and back covered with a composite material rated at R9, 

I looked at another model, steel/insulation/steel; more clean looking and rated at R12  and much but better constructed. So I went for the latter for  $80 more per door. Door frame is painted and asked about a cap and another 150 per door, no more maintenance there. $2180 complete with springs tracks and labour. And taxes. ;) 

 a company had quoted me close to double for the cheaper model I was looking at and no capping.! 
prices are all over the place.

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On 6/2/2020 at 10:43 AM, Headhunter said:

Why couldn't you just buy a regular door and apply Styrofoam sheets to the back side of the panels yourself? I fully admit that I have no experience with insulated doors, but aren't they simply insulated from the back side? Wouldn't it be cheaper to do this yourself after a trip to HD and a tube of adhesive?

HH

That’s what I did. Not the prettiest, but it’s worked for 17+ years. I keep it heated as it’s my workshop. Works great. 

Dont use Beadboard, only SM. 

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On 6/2/2020 at 3:26 PM, Headhunter said:

My original door was wood as well. It faces west and as a result, it takes the most weather and sun. I knew it was time to change when my son shot a ball hockey ball through the lower pane.

As I said, I didn't know the difference between doors....

Good luck with your purchase....

HH

My original garage door was made of some type of composite board, 16x7. At least 3 coats of paint on it and it still absorbed water, my garage door opener kept breaking gears, Craftsman and they were plastic, but plastic wasn't the problem, that door seemed to double in weight during rainy periods. Went to a steel door 15? or so years ago and no problems, my 30 year old garage door opener hasn't had a problem since the door change.

My barn has an 18x8 steel door with a Genie garage door opener, not sure where that Craftsman brand is heading with the turmoil at Sears, but I would probably avoid it now.  My Genie door opener is about 18 years old? No issues opening a bigger door.

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47 minutes ago, OhioFisherman said:

My original garage door was made of some type of composite board, 16x7. At least 3 coats of paint on it and it still absorbed water, my garage door opener kept breaking gears, Craftsman and they were plastic, but plastic wasn't the problem, that door seemed to double in weight during rainy periods. Went to a steel door 15? or so years ago and no problems, my 30 year old garage door opener hasn't had a problem since the door change.

My barn has an 18x8 steel door with a Genie garage door opener, not sure where that Craftsman brand is heading with the turmoil at Sears, but I would probably avoid it now.  My Genie door opener is about 18 years old? No issues opening a bigger door.

OF my Craftsman has been here since 2000 and it works great, one I had to replace and went Genie, They stooped making Genie they say cheap China crap. Door guy told me use it until it craps out, no fixing them.
 Lowe’s took over the Crafsman brand here in Canada. Doors are going up Thursday. 

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On 6/2/2020 at 10:43 AM, Headhunter said:

Why couldn't you just buy a regular door and apply Styrofoam sheets to the back side of the panels yourself? I fully admit that I have no experience with insulated doors, but aren't they simply insulated from the back side? Wouldn't it be cheaper to do this yourself after a trip to HD and a tube of adhesive?

HH

The better ones are spray foam insulated (no voids).  Styro leaves voids and the steel panel conducts the cold which makes the insulation somewhat ineffective.

Then again, your solution would work if the OP doesn't have living space above the garage which can get quite cold if you don't have decent doors.

 

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27 minutes ago, KraTToR said:

The better ones are spray foam insulated (no voids).  Styro leaves voids and the steel panel conducts the cold which makes the insulation somewhat ineffective.

Then again, your solution would work if the OP doesn't have living space above the garage which can get quite cold if you don't have decent doors.

 

The reason I went with foam insulation, do have living space above and the double garage being 12 feet high I believe it can hold a lot Of cold air. When I get in my car in the winter it never goes below 3-5 C. If you are going to do it do it right. I saw my brother’s and his inside is very neat and clean and well sealed. 

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7 hours ago, ketchenany said:

OF my Craftsman has been here since 2000 and it works great, one I had to replace and went Genie, They stooped making Genie they say cheap China crap. Door guy told me use it until it craps out, no fixing them.
 Lowe’s took over the Crafsman brand here in Canada. Doors are going up Thursday. 

I guess Lowes did that here too.

 

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We are  all done, great guy and great work, good instructions on how to keep them looking  good and well maintained (that cost me a beer, two espressos, a bottle of water and a tea)  :)

Lives only lives 5 minutes from me, who knew. Doors are foam injected and sealed, and the frames were capped. Now to do the front door to match this weekend. 

F1DC7605-4A2F-4DC4-8A98-9D25AD8B1437.jpeg

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