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Old Ironmaker

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  • 8 months later...

Last year was a total bust for me nothing saw the water but this year will be different!

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This little rig has seen quite a bit of water just not in the last few years, extremely stable in the water. With the 2.5 she moves pretty good as well

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However, ever since I got my Canoe the other boat sees mostly a storage rack. I will be moving this spring/summer to a place with lots of water around so getting both boats out will not be a problem, really looking forward to it!!!!

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8 hours ago, ckewley said:

Last year was a total bust for me nothing saw the water but this year will be different!

937267087_2015-05-3012_21_37.jpg.1b76e51071526fa5401737579e366032.jpg

This little rig has seen quite a bit of water just not in the last few years, extremely stable in the water. With the 2.5 she moves pretty good as well

024_zpseuypbfwa.jpg.f331700c24a0710edc6b224662a954fe.jpg

However, ever since I got my Canoe the other boat sees mostly a storage rack. I will be moving this spring/summer to a place with lots of water around so getting both boats out will not be a problem, really looking forward to it!!!!

Man, you could slay speckled trout and redfish down here with that top boat because you could get in some real skinny water with it.

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I got this last year and has all new floors, carpet, 4 new seats, trailer axel and 3 new wheels/rims and tires, winch, winch strap and more.  My plans have changed sadly...  She's going up for sale after all that work.  

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Edited by GBW
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Here is my 2017 Renegade 168DC.  Bought it almost a year ago to replace my 2009 Sylvan Explorer 1600 40Hp EFI.  Last summer was tough to outfit the boat with COVID and the shortages of pretty much everything.  But it is done!

- iPilot kit for trolling motor

- 2 bank on-board battery charger

- 6 x rod holders

- 2 trolling rods and a dipsey rod

- New life jackets (others went with the boat)

- Bow casting seat and post

- Bow mounted fish finder

- swim platform/ladder

- new water skis and a tube for the kids.

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On 3/18/2021 at 6:57 PM, Crimsongulf said:

I am getting this over in Crawfordville FL this weekend to be the Napanee boat.  I have always liked a stick steer.

 

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Well, picked it up Sunday and put a couple of hours on it yesterday, it is a nice little skiff and will scoot pretty good.  I got 36 mph on GPS.  As usual for me, she is far from new (2005) but seems to be in good shape, moisture readings are good and she has been fresh water only till yesterday.  I need to clean some wiring up and have ordered a water pump kit, plugs, new trailer hubs, etc.

 

I have the two old tinners at the cottage but both are old with old motors and I was going for dependability.  I just have to make sure that she is good for a 1300 mile haul and once she makes it to Napanee she will be there for the forseable future. 

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4 hours ago, porkpie said:

Yeah I just have a portable speaker.  My radio is cooked in the boat.

I'm looking at a cheap system. We tried the portable speaker last year but I don't download music so we have to stream ... 

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Nice boats guys 

Figured I’d ask this here before making a new topic. Ive recently discovered a good amount of water getting into my old deep v aluminum. It’s a riveted/welded hull. I put some water in it last week and the only spot I could find that was leaking was where it was missing a rivet. I replaced it with blind pop rivets and 5200. My issue now is that there’s a line of rivets where the boat sits on the bunks. When I had water in it the bunks were bone dry so I’m assuming they’re not leaking. Is there an easy way to lift the boat off the bunks to have a look?

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20 minutes ago, boombap said:

Nice boats guys 

Figured I’d ask this here before making a new topic. Ive recently discovered a good amount of water getting into my old deep v aluminum. It’s a riveted/welded hull. I put some water in it last week and the only spot I could find that was leaking was where it was missing a rivet. I replaced it with blind pop rivets and 5200. My issue now is that there’s a line of rivets where the boat sits on the bunks. When I had water in it the bunks were bone dry so I’m assuming they’re not leaking. Is there an easy way to lift the boat off the bunks to have a look?

Do you have a picture of it sitting on the trailer?  I have used a floor jack and blocks to get it up then put jack stands under the boat.  I have also gone shade tree and used come alongs on a big tree limb to lift one off the trailer.

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9 minutes ago, Crimsongulf said:

Do you have a picture of it sitting on the trailer?  I have used a floor jack and blocks to get it up then put jack stands under the boat.  I have also gone shade tree and used come alongs on a big tree limb to lift one off the trailer.

Here’s a couple.. I thought about using a come-a-long and a strap and tying it off to the beam in the garage but ehhh that kinda worries me.

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19 minutes ago, boombap said:

Here’s a couple.. I thought about using a come-a-long and a strap and tying it off to the beam in the garage but ehhh that kinda worries me.

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I would go with the come along.  The joists look strong and the boat doesn't appear to be heavy..  I did that in my basement garage using 1/2 inch poly.  I sealed some leaks on the old 14 tinner at the cottage with Gluvit.

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23 minutes ago, Crimsongulf said:

I would go with the come along.  The joists look strong and the boat doesn't appear to be heavy..  I did that in my basement garage using 1/2 inch poly.  I sealed some leaks on the old 14 tinner at the cottage with Gluvit.

Maybe I’ll give it a shot

In theory.. if the boat sat with water in it for 45 mins and the bunks were dry then the rivets are probably fine.. yeah?

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3 minutes ago, boombap said:

Maybe I’ll give it a shot

In theory.. if the boat sat with water in it for 45 mins and the bunks were dry then the rivets are probably fine.. yeah?

I would think so unless  there is a small leak that the bunks pressing up stopped..  I used the gluvit because it was leaking where the transom and hull join on the starboard side.  I didn't want to do a teardown so I tilted it up a bit and let the gluvit run down into the seam.  It has been three or four years and is still dry.

 

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1 hour ago, Crimsongulf said:

I would think so unless  there is a small leak that the bunks pressing up stopped..  I used the gluvit because it was leaking where the transom and hull join on the starboard side.  I didn't want to do a teardown so I tilted it up a bit and let the gluvit run down into the seam.  It has been three or four years and is still dry.

 

Gluvit is great stuff.. used it on a old build years ago. 5200 is also great.

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4 hours ago, boombap said:

Nice boats guys 

Figured I’d ask this here before making a new topic. Ive recently discovered a good amount of water getting into my old deep v aluminum. It’s a riveted/welded hull. I put some water in it last week and the only spot I could find that was leaking was where it was missing a rivet. I replaced it with blind pop rivets and 5200. My issue now is that there’s a line of rivets where the boat sits on the bunks. When I had water in it the bunks were bone dry so I’m assuming they’re not leaking. Is there an easy way to lift the boat off the bunks to have a look?

Easy. Boat guys all do this to work on their hull. Just use the trailer jack to lower the front as much as possible. Now pile supports like cement blocks with wood under each back corner as close to the hull as possible. Now just jack up the front and the rear now rests on the supports and you can easily put supports like blocks with wood to cushion, under the front sides but IMHO best to use a long beam like a 4 X 4. Can do it so the trailer can be driven out from underneath to allow almost complete access to do your work. But of course ensure you use sturdy supports and cushion things so the hull doesn't get scratched on, say, cement blocks. 

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