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bh87ss

Lund Fisherman 1800 Transom Replacement

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Hi Everyone, I am hoping I can draw on all the experience on this board regarding the transom replacement on my boat. I have received several quotes and have a couple of varying approach's and I want to make sure this is done 100% correct with no fear of issues down the road as I have never in my life had to get this completed before.

This boat has a slight downward piece on the gunnel where the transom  meets the top.

- should this angle piece be cut back and then welded back up so the replacement transom is in one solid piece or is it ok to have a piece slipped up in this space and then the bottom section all one piece?

- is it normal practice to  cut additional holes in the back section for access to the bolts & nuts, if this is completed should this area be re-foamed  with permanent access lids similar to those black circle ones on all of our boats.

I would be happy to send any pictures along to anyone or even better exchange numbers and talk through this if possible, not knowing can be scary and I just want to be as educated as i can and the web only helps so much.

Really appreciate any and all feedback from the experts out there.   

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Thanks Ohio Fisherman, I had read a few of those posts and it's interesting that there are a lot of comments indicating that the foam right up against the transom is a big part of the issue. So if the foam gets removed to access the bolts it may make sense not to replace it as this may help eliminate the issue with any water sitting in there against the new transom and not making its way to the bottom and the bilge .

I have not been able to see any discussions on the gunnel issue and access so when the new transom is built it slips in there as one big piece.

Do you think that the small area on each side below the gunnel would form any type of structural issue if the transom wasn't all one piece?   

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What are you going to use as a replacement?  Marine plywood? Coosa board?  

Your best bet will be to join the Lund Boat owners group on Facebook and ask there.  More then a few guys have replaced rotten transoms.

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Hi Bill I am going to go with Marine Plywood, not sure about that Coosa board.

Great Idea about the lund FB page, they actually have a restoration page I going to read through and see what I can dig up.

thanks

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No problem!  I'm sure someone will have an answer for ya.

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3 hours ago, bh87ss said:

Thanks Ohio Fisherman, I had read a few of those posts and it's interesting that there are a lot of comments indicating that the foam right up against the transom is a big part of the issue. So if the foam gets removed to access the bolts it may make sense not to replace it as this may help eliminate the issue with any water sitting in there against the new transom and not making its way to the bottom and the bilge .

I have not been able to see any discussions on the gunnel issue and access so when the new transom is built it slips in there as one big piece.

Do you think that the small area on each side below the gunnel would form any type of structural issue if the transom wasn't all one piece?   

The transom and decking on my 1987 smokercraft needed replacement, I did the front deck but got too sick to bother with the rest so I sold it. Mine looked like an easy fix for the transom, I would be leery of doing it any other way than original, a lot of stress back there, in the water and trailering.

Don't know enough about Coosa board to comment, but 500+ a sheet seems pricey to me.

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I mentioned in another post about boat brands to buy about just getting some of the rivets replaced on my Legend. I took it to Heritage Marine in London and was very satisfied with the results. They to full tear downs and rebuilding there.

You might want to consider this as an option.

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2 hours ago, OhioFisherman said:

The transom and decking on my 1987 smokercraft needed replacement, I did the front deck but got too sick to bother with the rest so I sold it. Mine looked like an easy fix for the transom, I would be leery of doing it any other way than original, a lot of stress back there, in the water and trailering.

Don't know enough about Coosa board to comment, but 500+ a sheet seems pricey to me.

You can get a transom from Lund for about $1000 or make a template yourself out of Coosa or marine plywood.  Really depends on what shape your current transom is in.   Lots and lots of guys have used Coosa with zero issues.   Some guys also use Seacast, which is kinda like expanding foam.  Or you can pay a shop to do it for 3-5k, lol.   If I ever have to do the transom in my Pro Sport I'll definitely be DIY'ing it.

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Did my transom this past spring.

Not a job I want to do too often.  ;)

The last one survived 28 years and I bet mine lasts longer than that so I should be good til I die!!!!! 😜

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Did you use epoxied marine plywood Dave?  Probably the cheapest way to do it.

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56 minutes ago, BillM said:

Did you use epoxied marine plywood Dave?  Probably the cheapest way to do it.

Yes I did Bill. The expensive part was having new gussets made as well as a stiffening plate to bolster the transom as I had to cut the top off in order to remove the wood. The gussets failed after years of torque and vibration metal fatigued the ears that bolted to the transom and the transom started to sag away from the boat. I had them made of stainless as it's much stronger. I had a 1/4" plate that sits between the gussets and transom and wraps over the top. All sealed with liquid urethane and 3M 4200.

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I replaced the transom in my 2003 Lund 1600 Prosport this past winter.  I used marine grade plywood (2 layers of 3/4" laminated with waterproof adhesive and screwed together)coated it with epoxy after I predrilled my bolt holes.  Prior to bolt installation I put 3M 4200 in the holes to ensure a complete seal.  I replaced any foam that I took out as my marine mechanic told me that this ensures proper ballast.  I sealed the top cap prior to installation(Lund doesn't do this which was a big factor in the rot to start with.)with 4200.  Total cost which included removal/replacement by my marine mechanic and parts was around $1200.00.  Not a tough job, just takes a bunch of time.

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All of the information provided has been very helpful in me thinking through this entire process on top of helping with the selection of the right shop to complete this work (I am not equipment nor have the time to do this). I want to thank everyone very much for sharing your experience and knowledge and look forward to more reading.

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4 hours ago, wotten said:

I replaced the transom in my 2003 Lund 1600 Prosport this past winter.  I used marine grade plywood (2 layers of 3/4" laminated with waterproof adhesive and screwed together)coated it with epoxy after I predrilled my bolt holes.  Prior to bolt installation I put 3M 4200 in the holes to ensure a complete seal.  I replaced any foam that I took out as my marine mechanic told me that this ensures proper ballast.  I sealed the top cap prior to installation(Lund doesn't do this which was a big factor in the rot to start with.)with 4200.  Total cost which included removal/replacement by my marine mechanic and parts was around $1200.00.  Not a tough job, just takes a bunch of time.

Did you document this with pics?  I'm sure I'll be doing the transom in my '03 Pro Sport in the next few years.

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Appreciate it man :)  hopefully you won't hear from me for a few years, lol!

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