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Old Yamaha 30hp tuneup - buy parts online?


Raycaster

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I have neglected my Yamaha 30hp (1991?) for awhile now and its running fine but is due for some TLC. I hit all the grease points in the spring and fall but other details are due.

I change the lower gear oil twice a year since I bought it used over 5 years go. My first oil change was a "milkshake" and I thought the seals were shot but its been clean since so I will keep the constant gear oil changes every few months for a cheap preventive measure if it needs it or not.The Yamaha C30Q is over due for an impeller replacement, spark plug and maybe fuel filter.

I'm in the Hamilton area and wonder where to order the parts online Canda or just shop local. I had a friend warn me the boat shops will charge 2-3x online cost but may be worth the cost instead of possibly ordering wrong parts online. 

Any input would be much appreciated.

On another maintenance question, is it possible to "lube up" the shifter cable or does a 30 yr old cable just get replaced. Boat shifts ok but pretty stiff and clunky. Is it big bucks? (15ft)

Also, do most guys just pressure spray the 6gallon plastic red gas tanks to remove any debris inside and let dry? Darn, not often in a cleaning mood so better get stuff done while I can!

Thx ahead.

 

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With the serial and or model number you should be able to order the correct parts?

yamaha-tag.png

  1. Serial Number
  2. Model Name
  3. Motor Transom Height
  4. Approved Model Code

Yamaha Outboard Motor MODEL, PRE-FIX and SERIAL NUMBER’S are stamped on a metal plate which is mounted on the transom clamp bracket located at the rear of the boat.

PPT For the above Info and much more.

Dan.

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Thx Guys.

YAMAHA CV30ELD 689 L

Was just told at CT that the NGK BR-7HS 10 are the same as the suggested NGK BR-7HS

Been googling all over can't find 100% info except gap size may be different?

Will probably just return and find plain NGK BR-7HS to avoid problems.

Thx Guys.

 

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My yamaha engines get serviced at Tuckers Marine. Actually, that's a lie. They haven't needed any service LOL......but they are good guys. Neil will hook you up with any parts you need. They are in Apsley, but can ship parts.  If its pumping water as normal, I wouldnt bother until you shut it down for the winter. If you have leaky lower unit seals, I'd get that fixed asap, or at least before freeze up. 

 

S. 

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I always get my boat/engine parts locally, actually everything I need.  It both supports local business and one can develop relationships with the retailer. I won't shop online, my wife does. Call me old fashion. Plus I know guys that thought they were saving money buying online only to be sent the wrong part that can't be returned or a Chinese knock off that is crappola. If she's running fine and don't have any leaks I would service it at the end of the season, coming faster everyday. As far as a milky bottom end gear oil I once scared the beegeezus out of myself when I found milky oil in the bottom end. No metal shavings on the magnetic screw thankfully. Then I remembered the last time I changed it I had run out of one brand of gear oil and used a different brand to top it up. That was it. 

Edited by Old Ironmaker
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1 hour ago, Raycaster said:

Thx Guys.

YAMAHA CV30ELD 689 L

Was just told at CT that the NGK BR-7HS 10 are the same as the suggested NGK BR-7HS

Been googling all over can't find 100% info except gap size may be different?

Will probably just return and find plain NGK BR-7HS to avoid problems.

Thx Guys.

 

If Yamaha says use 7HS then use 7HS. When did CTC have Marine mechanics behind the tire counter? Go to Bay City Marine on the mountain on Hester St. I can't believe how many guys want to cheap out for a few plugs. Not saying you are but there are many. Same goes for fuel. Nothing but Hi Test goes in my marine engines, car and truck reg. is fine for me. When I get my hi performance classic, the best only. 

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I hear you Raycaster, my jean pockets can get tight, often. But after 50 plus years of burning up any and all combustion engines ever made I might have learned my lesson. "Pay me now or pay me later." 

I was about 10 when I put straight gas in my fathers new to him home made 2 stroke lawnmower, I wasn't supposed to touch it.  I could run but he eventually caught me. It was a neat machine. He and my Uncle converted an old push mower and put a chainsaw motor on the frame somehow. 

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Get plugs (the ones the manual calls for) and lubricants from outside the dealer, but stick with getting motor parts from the dealer. The shift cable might be available after market at a cheaper price.

This might explain the difference in the plugs you're talking about. https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/yamaha-suzuki-outboards/277650-spark-plugs-ngk-b7hs-ngk-b7hs-10

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Got proper plugs, gapped in tolerance and tourqued to specs.

Thought after 30yrs the fuel filter would need replacing but opened up to find a pristine like new filter, sweet.

I have a mech friend to help me on the impeller replacement in the next coming weeks. 

Thx for help guys.

 

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30 year old fuel filter, I would freak if I don't change them every 2 years. But good for you. Takes a few minutes to change 1 and they are cheap compared to the job they do, even from the Marina. A reason I will pay a few bucks, and it's not that much more for 6 plugs (mine anyway) a fuel filter etc. is I can ask them for a nice print out of everything I ever purchased there. Sure is impressive to show an interested buyer someday. As far as fluids, I will get Merc fluids where ever it is on sale. Then I buy a gallon of 2 stroke, even 2 not a few quarts. Quicksilver gear oil as well, on sale. 

There is a crazy range for plugs, Ted has a 91' 90HP Mariner, his plugs are double what mine are,  I can't remember exactly but the plugs for my 94' 115HP Mariner are 1/2 that price. I have a buddy that takes my old plugs. Be my guest. 

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