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Bearings & Axle sizes


John Bacon

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Are axle sizes pretty standard for trailers?  Last month I had to replace the bearings on one wheel.  I purchased bearings from Princess Auto that were supposed to be for axles up to 1.06" in diameter.  I was able to get the bearings on to my axle; but it took a lot of force.  When I see other people changing bearings, they just slide them on without any significant resistance.

I measured my axle with a micrometer; and it showed a diameter of 1.0668".  The micrometer came with a supposedly one inch block; which I assume is for testing purposes.  When I measure that, I get 1.0006".  If I apply the same error to the axle; it gives me 1.0662"; which is slightly larger than the 1.06" that the bearing is designed for.

The original bearings did fail on my; so I ended up driving with no bearings for some time.  Would the larger size of my axle to due to damage?  Or, are there bearings designed for a 1.0662" axle?

I need to re-replace the bearing after about three trips.  I suspect that it's due to damaging the bearings by forcing them onto the axle.  I am sure I can do that again; but I am hoping to find a solution that lasts more than three trips.

Does anyone have any advice?  Are they any places that you recommend to buy bearings?  
  

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Car Quest can get you any bearings. If you had the original bearings any number can be cross reference and  then the rest is standard.

In your situation I would go to a bearing place with your measurements. Ours is called Oshawa Bearing.

Another option would be just buy the  whole hub complete with bearings. 

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34 minutes ago, John Bacon said:

Are axle sizes pretty standard for trailers?  Last month I had to replace the bearings on one wheel.  I purchased bearings from Princess Auto that were supposed to be for axles up to 1.06" in diameter.  I was able to get the bearings on to my axle; but it took a lot of force.  When I see other people changing bearings, they just slide them on without any significant resistance.

I measured my axle with a micrometer; and it showed a diameter of 1.0668".  The micrometer came with a supposedly one inch block; which I assume is for testing purposes.  When I measure that, I get 1.0006".  If I apply the same error to the axle; it gives me 1.0662"; which is slightly larger than the 1.06" that the bearing is designed for.

The original bearings did fail on my; so I ended up driving with no bearings for some time.  Would the larger size of my axle to due to damage?  Or, are there bearings designed for a 1.0662" axle?

I need to re-replace the bearing after about three trips.  I suspect that it's due to damaging the bearings by forcing them onto the axle.  I am sure I can do that again; but I am hoping to find a solution that lasts more than three trips.

Does anyone have any advice?  Are they any places that you recommend to buy bearings?  
  

Driving with no or damaged bearings sounds like a very good way to cause damage to the trailer's axle? Worked on a lot of cars and trailers but never had to beat a bearing on, if nothing is damaged they should slide on easily with no slop.

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1 hour ago, John Bacon said:

Are axle sizes pretty standard for trailers?  Last month I had to replace the bearings on one wheel.  I purchased bearings from Princess Auto that were supposed to be for axles up to 1.06" in diameter.  I was able to get the bearings on to my axle; but it took a lot of force.  When I see other people changing bearings, they just slide them on without any significant resistance.

I measured my axle with a micrometer; and it showed a diameter of 1.0668".  The micrometer came with a supposedly one inch block; which I assume is for testing purposes.  When I measure that, I get 1.0006".  If I apply the same error to the axle; it gives me 1.0662"; which is slightly larger than the 1.06" that the bearing is designed for.

The original bearings did fail on my; so I ended up driving with no bearings for some time.  Would the larger size of my axle to due to damage?  Or, are there bearings designed for a 1.0662" axle?

I need to re-replace the bearing after about three trips.  I suspect that it's due to damaging the bearings by forcing them onto the axle.  I am sure I can do that again; but I am hoping to find a solution that lasts more than three trips.

Does anyone have any advice?  Are they any places that you recommend to buy bearings?  
  

Quality of the bearings aside, the bearings you used were far too small an ID and I'm surprised you got them on. A typical press fit is 0.001" - 0.0015"  of interference. You were at .006" which could very well have damaged the bearings just by installing them. Wheel bearings should be even be a slip fit...not press fit.

As for your micrometer, yes the 1.000" block is to keep it in tolerance. It should have also come with a small hook shaped tool that you can use to gentle rotate the barrel to align the zeros while using the test block. Currently your mic is out .0006" (6 tenths) which for 99% of what you do means nothing.

Check the axle shafts carefully for any damage, scratching, galling and if its present, you'll have to replace them. Any new, high quality bearing you put on will not seat properly causing runout and vibration. This will shorten the life of any new bearing.

Good luck!

 

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Ask for Timken bearings. The rest are crap. Oshawa bearings will have them, along with most other bearing shops. I just had a trailer done for $150 at Eastons on Hwy 115. New bearings, seals, and races. I'd rather pay and wait an hour and let someone else deal with the grease. LOL 

S. 

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5 hours ago, Sinker said:

Ask for Timken bearings. The rest are crap. Oshawa bearings will have them, along with most other bearing shops. I just had a trailer done for $150 at Eastons on Hwy 115. New bearings, seals, and races. I'd rather pay and wait an hour and let someone else deal with the grease. LOL 

S. 

That’s a deal.  I did the same thing for my trailer brakes this year as well.  They needed servicing badly and I couldn’t be bothered to muck with them.  My local shop did the service and changed my oil (oil bath hubs) for $110 tax in, and no swearing on my part.  I’ll be having them change out my bearings next year as well.  OP, failed bearings can cause damage to the axle stubs.  I had an old duck boat trailer that when the bearing went, I had to use a torch to remove the races, and had to sand the stub down to get the new one on.  Predictably the bearings failed pretty often on the one side of that old rig.  The upside was that I am now an expert in emergency roadside bearing changes.  That said, if this is a heavy often used boat, I would have your axle checked by a pro shop to see if there has been damage.  It didn’t matter to me for a duck boat that I used 3 months of the year, but for my year round use fishin boat I couldn’t deal with regular failures.

Edited by porkpie
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Thanks for all of your input.  Does anyone have any knowledge of standard axle sizes?  It does seem strange that mine is just a few thousands of an inch larger than what I assume are standard bearing sizes.

I wouldn't mind having an expert do it; but getting there is an issue.

All of the specialty places are all closed this weekend.  It sucks that this happens just when we get some nice conditions on Lake Ontario.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a bearing supplier in Barrie?
 

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35 minutes ago, John Bacon said:

Thanks for all of your input.  Does anyone have any knowledge of standard axle sizes?  It does seem strange that mine is just a few thousands of an inch larger than what I assume are standard bearing sizes.

I wouldn't mind having an expert do it; but getting there is an issue.

All of the specialty places are all closed this weekend.  It sucks that this happens just when we get some nice conditions on Lake Ontario.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a bearing supplier in Barrie?
 

Canadian Bearing,  160 John St, Barrie.  705-726-3030. 

My 1 inch ones slide on with no effort.

After a bit of digging I found an axle with a 1.062 diameter which is pretty darn close to your measurement. Appears you may have a 1 1/16" axle. Hopefully this link works.

https://picclick.com/TWO-Trailer-Axle-Spindle-42-6000-7000-W-291686429027.html

Edited by Fisherman
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Yes John you need to buy the right hub with the right bearings in it.

Sounds like you have smoked theses hubs a couple times so hubs most likely garbage.

And as stated bearing need to seat easily . Your axle's  are much tougher material but still need inspection.

 

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Just my 2 cents, I’ve done away with just replacing the bearings and seals...for an extra $30 you can just replace the entire hub with the new races already installed. 

I did a bearing swap last year and cracked my hub putting the races in using a proper races punch tool.

more effort than it’s worth.

 

you should be able to see the code for your bearing size stamped on your bearings. Just match that and you are good to go.

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17 hours ago, tomO said:

I just replaced the axle on my old boat trailer. Axle,bearings and hub plus a Ubolt kit was $127.00 US. The axle is rated for 2000 lbs . I have a aluminum Jon Boat.

 

I replaced an axle on another trailer for basically the same price in canadian dollars. The 2000lb axle, EZ lube hubs, and spring kit, custom made for my trailer, was just over $200 canadian. Also from EASTONS on hwy 115 north bound. I've had tons of trailer work, and purchases from them over the years, and they have always gone out of their way to make things right. Also have a 6x10 galv. landscape trailer they built for me. The thing is a beast. Not a single issue with it in 12 years just replace tires,  inspect bearings once in a while, and giver. 

 

I've been lucky to never have a trailer problem while on the road, my whole life (i'm sure I just jinxed that). Never a bearing failure, never a tire blow out, nothing. Lucky....probably.....preventative maintenance? Absolutely. 

The most common problem I see on A LOT of trailers is the inside seal blown out, because of bearing buddies. The trick I was taught by a bearing guru is just look at the inside seals on the back of the wheels. If no grease is leaking out, no water can get in, so the bearings are fine. There is NO NEED TO ADD GREASE to a bearing that's not leaking out grease. Just resist the urge to pick up the grease gun and give them a shot of grease. They don't need it. Keep your seals in tact, and drive it like you stole it. 

 

S. 

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4 minutes ago, Sinker said:

I Lucky....probably.....preventative maintenance? Absolutely. 

The most common problem I see on A LOT of trailers is the inside seal blown out, because of bearing buddies. The trick I was taught by a bearing guru is just look at the inside seals on the back of the wheels. If no grease is leaking out, no water can get in, so the bearings are fine. There is NO NEED TO ADD GREASE to a bearing that's not leaking out grease. Just resist the urge to pick up the grease gun and give them a shot of grease. They don't need it. Keep your seals in tact, and drive it like you stole it. 

 

S. 

Amen about over greasing.

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Thanks, I will look into a new axle.  For the prices mentioned; it's probably worth it for the peace of mind.

People seem to think highly of Eastons.  Are there any places trailer places closer to Scarborough or Barrie that I should consider?  I live in Scarborough and currently commute to a client in Barrie.  If not, I will have to find some time for a trip to Eastons.

 

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You may want to consider replacing the entire axle. After going through trailer tires almost every season, I soon realized that the trailer axle was under rated for the amount of driving that I am doing. 

Replaced with a 3000 lb axle from PA. about $ 400.00. easy job. Now I have no more uneven wear on my tires. This all started with a simple bearing replacement. lol

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14 hours ago, msp said:

You may want to consider replacing the entire axle. After going through trailer tires almost every season, I soon realized that the trailer axle was under rated for the amount of driving that I am doing. 

Replaced with a 3000 lb axle from PA. about $ 400.00. easy job. Now I have no more uneven wear on my tires. This all started with a simple bearing replacement. lol

So, an axle would have a mileage rating as well as a weight rating?  Or, am I reading that wrong.

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With well over a million Km of trailering boats I've had every problem you can think of in every location. I changed a hub on a interstate in Chicago.

Because I had the right parts to do the job and the boat was 4 months old. 

John you are over your head take this to a pro have them look at your stuff. If your axles are good

move to your hubs ect. get this fixed right. 

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14 hours ago, John Bacon said:

So, an axle would have a mileage rating as well as a weight rating?  Or, am I reading that wrong.

Sorry. Just to clarify...….

The axle weight rating was low for the boat with gear ,fuel, ect…..

I was getting very uneven wear on the insides of the trailer tires. Spoke to a couple of trailer guys and they said that typically these trailers are for cottagers that put their boats in the water at the beginning of the season and take out at the end of the season. I am averaging 15 000 km per year on questionable roads. A new axle took care of all my problems.

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