Jump to content

Working on ye olde boat


Recommended Posts

I've had the pleasure helping a pal that has a small marine repair shop. I've done 4 transom replacements over the last few winters. I put a few coats of Spar Varnish before sliding it back in. We also used a tube of 3M 5200 to seal the tops, screws and drain holes. Like you said Dave I will be dead and my ashes spread across the sea, lakes and land of this great nation and a bit in The Erie Barge Canal before those transoms rot again. Doing a good job there Big Dave. 

Off topic off course. A little fact we didn't want to know. If a person that weighs 200 lbs. and the body has 20% water why doesn't the cremation joint give back 180 lbs. of ashes? Where does all but a few handfuls go? After I left the steel plant I worked in the refractory business for a bit. We had to replace some refractory in the cremation furnace. When I asked what temp do they lower it to rake out all the ashes of the deceased? We learned that they only lower the furnace temp at the end of the day to reduce energy costs and reducing thermal shock that contributes to refractory lining failure. Therefor the urn will contain a combination  of all those cooked that day. I hope that practice has changed in 20  years. Oh my. 

Edited by Old Ironmaker
Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, Tom S said:

Can I ask the reasoning behind the 10 coats of clear? Wouldn't it be faster and more reliable to glass and vacuum bag it? Or is it a matter of keeping things simple?

Don't have the resources to do that.

The original was just plain marine ply with no sealing.

It lasted 28 years, so this should last longer and I'll be dead before it needs doing again.  ;)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, BillM said:

Dave, did you have any pin holes in the transom before you started?  How did you take care of that during the rebuild?  

Didn't see any. The metal is in good shape.

Only holes are ones that have been drilled through it to hold stuff.

If there had been any I would have used the urethane on it. Stuff sticks like crazy and is waterproof.

They use it to hold windshields in cars. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did the transom on my 2004 Lund Alaskan 1800 a couple winters ago. Im lucky to have a large enough shop and a beam/chainfall to help with removal and installation.

Heres the transom coming out..in one piece for a template. Can you believe how rotten it is?? Crap wood with no type of glassing or sealant


009.thumb.JPG.a9111d83ced32a01515dc44d81e28403.JPG

 

012.thumb.JPG.306f828dca92fae7aaf87039ed10e192.JPG

Heres new marine grade 3/4" ply ready for the template

016.thumb.JPG.be3e715fbf286d0643775c79af83ddaf.JPG

 

2  pieces glued and screwed together with PL construction adhesive to get 1 1/2" width

963290121_018(2).thumb.JPG.4da1ef6f4856c99b4d42a7aa1220de65.JPG

Polyester resin 2 coats applied

024.thumb.JPG.a4bb7e8ec4a96f3065d397a09e26bd65.JPG

Then glassed

029.thumb.JPG.9e1e598b9cee254237ed858177135539.JPG

lots of resin, ready to be trimmed

026.thumb.JPG.c799e46af0115690efd48608624cc8da.JPG

lots of 4200 for everything

545059837_Lundtransom002.thumb.JPG.952ea42573575288bb7edd1dc7fdb568.JPG

transom in, waterproof sealant over the top 1/4, clamped to seal

709386713_Lundtransom005.thumb.JPG.93f57cdd7f90e22ca1644999a66b7486.JPG

Splash well reinstalled, everything that was out reprimed

233441719_Lundtransom009.thumb.JPG.f1e3129e8e9de386216b2ebd58a1b57e.JPG

sealed and painted 

1899822231_Lundtransom011.thumb.JPG.4ee63d73d92e4230e8246133323677a9.JPG

Motor reinstalled, 4200 used on every bolt, screw, rivet

1537440039_Lundtransom014.thumb.JPG.722216b046832fc6642ce5d5be9bfb5f.JPG
 

The only blurp was I didnt calculate quite enough for the added thickness of my extra glass/resin job. It did fit snug, but will as others have said, out live/out last its owner.
 

 

 

 

Edited by lazyarcher
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This thread shows how 'do-able' this is. Helps if you have a nice garage/shop I realize. I removed my Yamaha F90 and hung it from the rafters in my garage, If that's more than you wanna do you can take it to your marine mechanic, pay them to R&R/store it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

47 minutes ago, Pigeontroller said:

This thread shows how 'do-able' this is. Helps if you have a nice garage/shop I realize. I removed my Yamaha F90 and hung it from the rafters in my garage, If that's more than you wanna do you can take it to your marine mechanic, pay them to R&R/store it.

Its absolutely do-able. You're right with the engine though...it could be a bit much if you dont have the equipment to handle the weight. Taking the boat to a shop and having them remove and store the engine is a great idea. The rest is just time and labor which is do-able!!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lazyarcher, great job man!!!   I'm dreading this on my 2003 Pro Sport.   I found one spot of paint bubbling at the start of the season, other then that the transom is a solid as a rock (Won't flex at all when boucing the F115 on the back).  I think I'll do this job while the transom is in relatively good shape.   I'd rather have it out in one piece then wait until it's coming out in chunks.    

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, BillM said:

lazyarcher, great job man!!!   I'm dreading this on my 2003 Pro Sport.   I found one spot of paint bubbling at the start of the season, other then that the transom is a solid as a rock (Won't flex at all when boucing the F115 on the back).  I think I'll do this job while the transom is in relatively good shape.   I'd rather have it out in one piece then wait until it's coming out in chunks.    

Mine was way gone--I could see it flexing with the motor but didnt recognize it. I pulled the cap off the transom and could shove a 25 " sharpened metal rod all the way down...ouch!!!

 

I love Lunds but man did they use crap wood in the early-mid 2000s. Ive also replaced some of the floors in my Alaskan...rotted where the seat bases bolt through. The wood there was just as untreated and rotten as the transom. I understand they're better now

Edited by lazyarcher
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A method that I used when replacing the transom on my Ranger for clamping was to make up two opposing pieces of plywood, same width as the transom, reinforced with 2 x 4 on edge and get 12 or 14 inch carriage bolts and bolt the plywood through the pre-drilled motor mounting holes. Torque those down to "red in the face and can't give her no more" tightness. 

Regarding the holes I was taught that you should over bore then prior to mounting the transom and fill then with a resin/microbead mix that way the holes will be internally sealed as well when you drill the motor mounting holes. 

Edited by HTHM
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recent Topics

    Popular Topics

    Upcoming Events


×
×
  • Create New...