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ETEC 135 HO 1st Impressions - NF


hutch4113
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Have not seen too many posts on this motor, so thought I would share my impressions in case anyone is looking at it.  

Model is a G1 ETEC 135HO with 25 inch shaft.  Estimated run time since new -> 5 hours.

Sound

First things first - this motor sounds great.  I was used to the higher pitch from my old Optimax, so was not sure what to expect.  However this motor sounds entirely different, with a Low Warble.  The difference a V6 Block makes from a V4 is probably one of the reasons.

This Motor sounds strong.  Even at WOT, it is great to listen to (if you like that sort of thing of course).

Volume

This thing is quiet!!!!  The Optimax was pretty quiet at low idle as well - but this new motor blows it away.  But at WOT is where it is really impressive.  The Opti would scream at WOT (it was not a bad scream - ?) which made conversation a little difficult - more yelling then anything.  

The ETEC is barely louder than the wind noise, which makes conversation much easier.   

Installation/Look

So far I have had several compliments on how nice it looks.  The color (Dark Grey) and lettering, etc. really look nice.   I also like that the Oil Container is separate from the Motor itself.  It does take a bit of storage away, but where I have it was for spare propellers anyway - and they still fit.  

Performance

Motor flat out rocks.  Hard to compare to the old Opti as the new motor has at least 30 more HP.   I also never experimented much with Propellers on the old motor, so not really sure I had the best Propeller on it, for that type of Motor/Boat combo.

However with the OEM Aluminum and ETEC the hole shot is scary quick.  The Trim System is also a little different, but as I am getting used to it, it is nice.  

I now have a Turning Point Hustler 14.25 x 21 P installed.  Ran it a couple of days - and this  combo really sings.  With 3 people in the boat, even in chop I was getting close to 46mph.  Pretty sure with two and calm surface I might hit 48.  May not even look at a Stainless Steel propeller as I am not sure it will beat the performance.

Trolling

I would have to say the Opti did a better job at trolling.  It is not that the ETEC is bad - more that I have a hard time finding the sweet spot with the throttle.  It might be more that the new controls are still stiff - so getting it to a nice speed involves a little more trial and error than I am used to.  But it does troll at a nice speed once I get it set properly.

Other things

Cannot comment on Oil Usage yet, as I am still in the Break in Period - where it will use a lot.  I have basically gone through two jugs.  From what I understand once break in is done, that will drop dramatically.  Fuel consumption has also been higher - getting mixed reports on if that is also because of break in or not.  However more HP = use more Gas.

I also cannot speak to reliability.  I have had one alarm go off (no oil).  But after turning the motor off - checking the tank, etc. the Alarm shut off, and has not come back.  Over long term I hope it will be a good engine - but I have a 7 year warranty with it, so not going to worry to much.

At the end of the day it puts a silly grin on my face every time so far ?.  If you are looking to re-power I would take a serious look at it.

 

 

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Does Evinrude have anything like Mercury's Smartcraft system\gauges?

I ask because I bought the Smartcraft setup when I got my new 4 stroke a few years ago.

One of the main reasons was for the ability to adjust trolling RPM by buttons on the gauge.

I just pop it into gear and adjust speed with the gauge, no fiddling with the throttle.

Worth every penny it cost me.  ;)

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I'm currently running 2 Evinrude HOs,, a 250 gen 2 and a 15 kicker. Both are 2 stroke and they are fantastic.  Here are my comments:

You'll love the auto winterization mode.  There is a way to do it even if you don't have the ICON gauges.

2 stroke torque - cant beat it.

My 250 goes into limp  mode once my oil tank (internal) hits 1/4. Something to keep in mind.  Dunno about the 15 as its still on its 1st tank.

Fuel and oil economy (post breakin) are exceptional around 3000 to 3500 rpm. 

My G2 is very fussy with fuel quality.  I didnt add enough stabilzer last winter and it complained through the that tank of fuel. New fuel, no issues.  Very solid performance and super easy to start (both).

I would take in every 2-3 yrs just to get it hooked up to the diagnotic system and to upload any software updates that came out.

Enjoy :)

Edited by KraTToR
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3 hours ago, KraTToR said:

I'm currently running 2 Evinrude HOs,, a 250 gen 2 and a 15 kicker. Both are 2 stroke and they are fantastic.  Here are my comments:

You'll love the auto winterization mode.  There is a way to do it even if you don't have the ICON gauges.

2 stroke torque - cant beat it.

My 250 goes into limp  mode once my oil tank (internal) hits 1/4. Something to keep in mind.  Dunno about the 15 as its still on its 1st tank.

Fuel and oil economy (post breakin) are exceptional around 3000 to 3500 rpm. 

My G2 is very fussy with fuel quality.  I didnt add enough stabilzer last winter and it complained through the that tank of fuel. New fuel, no issues.  Very solid performance and super easy to start (both).

I would take in every 2-3 yrs just to get it hooked up to the diagnotic system and to upload any software updates that came out.

Enjoy :)

Huge differences between the HO and the G2. That G2 is a torque monster. 

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I have to say, that is a great review. I wish you would have bought and made this review a few years ago LOL. I had considered swapping my 75 merc 4 stroke out for a 20" shaft 135 HO on my old Tracker (2006 was rated for a 135) but ended up buying a new boat instead.

Like you, I went with an evinrude but I have a 225HO G2.

A few things I can note that should be the same.

1. Please read your manual to confirm but I noted that for my G2, if warranty work needs to be done to the LU, they are very particular with their prop choice. My manual pretty much says you need to be running an Evinrude prop or the warranty will be void. Only pointing this out because you mentioned a non Evinrude prop. I also have a buddy running an aluminum on his 115 and he tried stainless and he found no gain. If you want to see if there is any gains to be had, run your numbers through a prop slip calculator and see what percentage slip you have. If it is under 10%, you will more than likely not see any gains. My Merc was like that.

2. Oil consumption. You are right! During break in it goes through a lot of oil. Once the break in is over, you will notice a lot less oil going through the motor. I am currently on my 3rd jug of oil at the 20 hour mark. My reservoir holds 2 gallons though and there was a gallon in there when I bought it.

3. As mentioned before, the motor will go into limp mode with you get to low. It is a pain that I somewhat found out the hard way. I fish shallow so trim the motor up quite a bit when I am fishing. I trim it down just enough to start before idling out of these spots and on Monday, It went into limp with the oil reservoir at 30%. I shut the motor off and trim all of the way down to the point where it read correctly and I had 37% remaining so I was able to blast off. This s good to know. I had a jug of oil in the truck so I just went and got it and filled her up.

 

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23 hours ago, Lape0019 said:

I have to say, that is a great review. I wish you would have bought and made this review a few years ago LOL. I had considered swapping my 75 merc 4 stroke out for a 20" shaft 135 HO on my old Tracker (2006 was rated for a 135) but ended up buying a new boat instead.

Like you, I went with an evinrude but I have a 225HO G2.

A few things I can note that should be the same.

1. Please read your manual to confirm but I noted that for my G2, if warranty work needs to be done to the LU, they are very particular with their prop choice. My manual pretty much says you need to be running an Evinrude prop or the warranty will be void. Only pointing this out because you mentioned a non Evinrude prop. I also have a buddy running an aluminum on his 115 and he tried stainless and he found no gain. If you want to see if there is any gains to be had, run your numbers through a prop slip calculator and see what percentage slip you have. If it is under 10%, you will more than likely not see any gains. My Merc was like that.

2. Oil consumption. You are right! During break in it goes through a lot of oil. Once the break in is over, you will notice a lot less oil going through the motor. I am currently on my 3rd jug of oil at the 20 hour mark. My reservoir holds 2 gallons though and there was a gallon in there when I bought it.

3. As mentioned before, the motor will go into limp mode with you get to low. It is a pain that I somewhat found out the hard way. I fish shallow so trim the motor up quite a bit when I am fishing. I trim it down just enough to start before idling out of these spots and on Monday, It went into limp with the oil reservoir at 30%. I shut the motor off and trim all of the way down to the point where it read correctly and I had 37% remaining so I was able to blast off. This s good to know. I had a jug of oil in the truck so I just went and got it and filled her up.

 

Thanks for the tips.  The G1 has a separate Oil Tank - will be interesting to see if it does the same thing.  

I have not received my Warranty Info yet.  I was told it would come by mail - but may have to follow up with where I purchased it from.  Not sure how they can deny warranty based on a Propeller - but good to check it out.

I have ordered the BRP Diagnostic Software and cable.  Hopefully I will get it before the season ends, so I can do out and do another prop test.  I am not 100% convinced my Tach is showing me the right numbers.  I can run the motor with a Laptop connected to verify.  Right now my slip numbers are coming in around 22% which seems awfully high.  I can't see what else can be done - the cavitation plate is on the surface at full trim.

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4 hours ago, hutch4113 said:

Thanks for the tips.  The G1 has a separate Oil Tank - will be interesting to see if it does the same thing.  

I have not received my Warranty Info yet.  I was told it would come by mail - but may have to follow up with where I purchased it from.  Not sure how they can deny warranty based on a Propeller - but good to check it out.

I have ordered the BRP Diagnostic Software and cable.  Hopefully I will get it before the season ends, so I can do out and do another prop test.  I am not 100% convinced my Tach is showing me the right numbers.  I can run the motor with a Laptop connected to verify.  Right now my slip numbers are coming in around 22% which seems awfully high.  I can't see what else can be done - the cavitation plate is on the surface at full trim.

I'm just letting you know, you're heading down a slippery slope trying to "tune" that setup. It's not a simple, if this, do that situation. If you've never set up a boat my advice is take the winter and read all you can. And I mean no disrespect, but worrying about prop slip before making sure you tach is 100%, your water pressure gauge works(or you have one), or knowing your prop to pad(leg depth) is a not a fixall. You could be getting higher prop slip with the perfect prop and it could be related to cavitation from under the boat(lower has to be in clean water), or the depth of the lower end at WOT. And remember some props like running deep while others don't. Finally, remember that most of what you read about this will be written for glass boats with running pads. I have no idea how that boat is constructed and designed to run at WOT. Personally, I'd start by contacting the manufacturer and asking questions like prop to pad recommendation and if there is no pad per se, ask how they measure and what do they suggest. Start with the basics and tweek from there, making sure you're getting good water pressure(mfg recommended), at trim and WOT. 

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On ‎10‎/‎13‎/‎2018 at 9:56 AM, hutch4113 said:

Thanks for the tips.  The G1 has a separate Oil Tank - will be interesting to see if it does the same thing.  

I have not received my Warranty Info yet.  I was told it would come by mail - but may have to follow up with where I purchased it from.  Not sure how they can deny warranty based on a Propeller - but good to check it out.

I have ordered the BRP Diagnostic Software and cable.  Hopefully I will get it before the season ends, so I can do out and do another prop test.  I am not 100% convinced my Tach is showing me the right numbers.  I can run the motor with a Laptop connected to verify.  Right now my slip numbers are coming in around 22% which seems awfully high.  I can't see what else can be done - the cavitation plate is on the surface at full trim.

With the separate oil reservoir, at least you won't have different readings with the motor tilted up. If anything, it may be a good idea to just carry an additional unopened jug of oil with you.

The information regarding warranty was found within the user manual. If you have not received that, you may want to contact your dealer as you should have received that when you picked up the boat. I did receive the warranty card a few months after purchase directly from Evinrude.

As for your slip, that is crazy high and tell me you would benefit from a stainless prop. The reason for the slip is aluminum flexes. so when you are at wide open throttle, the pressure from the water passing buy is pushing so hard on the blades that they are flexing in. So your 21p prop is acting more like a 20 or 19p. The less slip, the more your prop will act true to pitch.

If you can find someone or somewhere that will lend you a prop, I would maybe try a 21 stainless and see how it fares. as long as the RPM's are still where they should be, you are good to go. If they are to high or low, you can adjust from there. If you want to mess around with setup, you can play with motor height but it doesn't sound like that is an issue for you. I would just leave it where it is.

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Got to try the winterization feature on Friday.  Figured since I may not make it out again - and I was on the water - why not.  Have to say - it is a GREAT feature.  Wonder why it took so long for someone to build it into the Engine.

Took about 2 minutes - motor is fogged.  The bonus is, if I want to go out again, I just go.  I can run the process again when I am done.

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