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Bait Tank


DanD

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Got the semi portable bait tank up and running (semi portable?), is that once filled with water it's not coming out of the truck; until drained. LOL Its been going now for a week (on my deck in direct sun), keeping the water temp right around 50° mark. Put some water conditioner in the tank, to neutralize the chlorine, that's in the city water. Bought a scoop of the small (sacrificial) minnows from  the bait shop. Put them in the tank and so far after 36 hours, there's not one floater. They're all alive and very active and feeding on the goldfish flaked food. 

Heading up to Elk Lake next Sunday. The closes place to get minnows is in New Liskead; an hour + away from camp. Planning on buying 30 dozen, which will last our group for the week we're there. Just putting this out there; that after my trip; if anyone wants to borrow the tank; its there for the asking.

Dan.

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30 dozen is quite a few minnows. You might want to monitor the ammonia build up. 

API® Ammonia Aquarium Test Strips IT Instructions for Use Why Test for Ammonia? Fish continually release ammonia (NH3) directly into the aquarium through their gills, urine and solid waste. In addition, uneaten food and other decaying matter also add ammonia to the water. Ammonia in an aquarium will damage gill membranes and prevent fish from carrying on normal respiration. Trace amounts of ammonia will stress fish, suppressing the immune system and increasing the likelihood of disease and death. High levels of ammonia quickly lead to fish death. A natural mechanism exists in established aquariums to control ammonia. It is called the biological filter, which is made up of nitrifying bacteria; these bacteria live in the aquarium filter and gravel bed. Nitrifying bacteria convert toxic ammonia to nitrite (also toxic), which is then converted to nitrate. However, as with any natural process, imbalances can occur, causing an increase in the level of ammonia. Therefore, it is important to test for ammonia so that once ammonia is detected, steps can be taken to remove it. Testing Tips • In new aquariums, ammonia should be tested every other day until the ammonia level is 0 ppm (mg/L). This may take 4 to 6 weeks. • In established aquariums, ammonia should be tested once a week as a routine part of aquarium maintenance in order to make sure that it is at a safe level. • This test kit reads total Ammonia (NH3/NH4+) in parts per million (ppm), which are equivalent to milligrams per liter (mg/L). • This test reads from 0 ppm (mg/L) to 6 ppm (mg/L) in both freshwater and saltwater. Directions for Use • Read directions thoroughly before testing. • Dip strip directly into aquarium for 5 seconds. • Remove with pad face up, and hold strip level for 60 seconds. • DO NOT SHAKE OFF EXCESS WATER. • Compare to color chart on tube. For Best Results: • Read in a well lit area. • Keep wet fingers out of the tube. • Close tube tightly after removing strip. • Store in a cool, dry place, 59º- 86ºF (15º- 30º C). • Avoid storage over 100º F (38º C). What the Test Results Mean • In new freshwater and saltwater aquariums the ammonia level can gradually climb to 6 ppm (mg/L) or more. As the biological filter becomes established (in 4 to 6 weeks) the ammonia level will drop to 0 ppm (mg/L). • In established aquariums the ammonia level should always be 0 ppm (mg/L). The presence of ammonia in established aquariums indicates possible over-feeding, too many fish or inadequate biological filtration. Reducing Ammonia • To detoxify ammonia, use API Ammo Lock®. Ammo Lock converts toxic ammonia to a non-toxic form. Ammonia tests will still read positive for ammonia, even though it is non-toxic. The biological filter will consume the non-toxic ammonia, converting it first to nitrite and then to nitrate. • Use API Stress Zyme® to help speed up the development of the biological filter to reduce the level of ammonia. • Changing 25% of the water will also reduce the ammonia level. In an emergency, daily water changes may be required over several days. Be sure to use a water conditioner, such as API Stress Coat®, when adding tap water to the aquarium. Filtration Methods for Removing Ammonia from Freshwater Aquariums • Add API Nitra-Zorb® to your filter to remove ammonia and improve water quality. API Nitra-Zorb will remove ammonia, as well as nitrite and nitrate, from freshwater aquariums. API Nitra-Zorb is a very effective blend of resins in a rechargeable pouch. It is especially helpful when setting up a new freshwater aquarium. • Add API Ammo-Chips™ or API Ammo-Carb™ to your filter to remove ammonia and improve water quality. Note: This test measures Ammonia from 0 - 6.0 ppm (mg/L) in 5 increments: 0, 0.5, 1.0, 3.0, 6.0 ppm (mg/L). For more precise readings, use the API Ammonia Test Kit, which uses a liquid reagent, and reads from 0 to 8 ppm (mg/L) in 7 increments: 0, 0.25, 0.5, 1.0, 2.0, 4.0 and 8.0 ppm (mg/L). E

 

Art

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10 hours ago, Fisherman said:

What about the 120 rule and are you even allowed to split ownership?

I did email the Aylmer MNR office, with that same question. According to Melanie a CO at the office, who called me with a reply, rather then just email back. Said that it is OK to share a bait tank with other people's limits. As long as there are enough people there to claim their bait that's in the tank. I'm pushing 60 and about 30+ years ago I was charged for improperly packaged fish. I'm not going to break the law again and ruin another trip like that did.  But thanks for asking.

Art.

Thanks for the info. Just checked and there's a product from "Topfin" that is supposed to help with bio waist in the water. Initially yes the tank will be crowded; but it won't take long for the minnow population to dwindle. 

Dan.

Edited by DanD
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Great set up and even better offer to share it Dan the Man. We got jacked up by a CO a few years ago on Quinte. I didn't save the receipt from the bait shop to prove what species where they came from and  exactly how many we had. He wasn't very accommodating so  didn't ask him what if I trapped them. We had 5 or 6 scoops, I couldn't tell him how many and I wasn't about to try and count them all as I didn't have a second bucket. He had us dump them on the road and kill them all. PRK. Just a warning to you guys. 

On a positive note I recently pulled a permit from the Aylmer MNR office  , nice group of Women there and very accommodating.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just an update on the bait tank. It worked great; lost no more then 20 or so minnows for the week. Got 20 scoops from John's Tackle box; in New Liskeard. I also have to say they were generous scoops; 30 plus dozen (Thanks John and crew). Fired up the genny, got the aerator and freeze running and off we went, to Elk Lake. At camp we plugged into the cottage and we were good. Fed them flaked goldfish food once a day. It didn't take them long to figure out what was being put into the tank; it was a mini feeding frenzy. As for the walleye fishing, the minnows easily doubled our catch rate; with many at the top end of the slot and a couple of above slot fish. There was always the 16" and down sized fish to be had for the frying pan and did we eat good. I know NO pictures it didn't happen. LOL But we all know what walleye and pike look like. The only picture I regret not getting, was when my brother fell off the dock; while trying to hold the pontoon boat. With him falling in; it answered my question about my spare inflatable life jacket. Yup it'll still inflate after 8 years; he bobbed up to the surface like a cork. LOL So from now on I'll have a spare rearm kit in the tackle box.

Dan.

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