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Installing a kill switch


leaf4

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So I joined the truck club today, the lady works at leggats in Burlington and with her employee discount along with another 2750 in incentives I couldn't say no ?

 

 

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So I'm wondering on what the best route to either have a Killswitch installed or is it something I could do myself? I know there's at least a few mechanics here so hopefully your knowledge can steer me in the right direction!

Edited by Lucas F
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Nice truck!! I think installing a kill switch on it is a great idea. Especially since you posted a nice picture and included your home address in picture #1!!!! I'd fix that quick.

Ha, woops didn't think of that

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Very nice! Eddyc on this board got the same one, and he put on aftermarket rims . I'm jealous every time I see it. I kick myself for buying a ram 1500 eco , at least in terms of aesthetics .

 

Congrats! And cut your damn lawn....

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I have a parasitic drain on my 98 Tahoe and I use a negative terminal disconnect from Canuck tire. You can't use your door key fob but I just unlock the door and pop the hood and a few twists of the knob power restored. Or you can take the green knob with you and truck can't be started unless they have a wrench on them.

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With so many systems being monitored on today's vehicles, by the different modules (computers). I'm not sure where I would connect a kill switch; so that it wouldn't set a code or trip warning lights on the dash? Plus it would render remote start inop; when the switch was turned to the no start position.

The idea I've been playing with, for my 17 Sivlerado; is adding an electric linear actuator under the truck. Have it attached to the transmission; so that when extended, it will contact the shift lever; stopping the trans from coming out of park.

 

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Princess auto has a number of different actuators, that I don't think it would be that hard to fabricate the bracketing required. Yes the thieves will still damage the vehicle in their attempt to steal it; but at least with the trans locked in park; they're not going to be able to take it.

 

Dan.

 

 

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With so many systems being monitored on today's vehicles, by the different modules (computers). I'm not sure where I would connect a kill switch; so that it wouldn't set a code or trip warning lights on the dash? Plus it would render remote start inop; when the switch was turned to the no start position.

The idea I've been playing with, for my 17 Sivlerado; is adding an electric linear actuator under the truck. Have it attached to the transmission; so that when extended, it will contact the shift lever; stopping the trans from coming out of park.

 

8489072.jpg

 

 

 

Dan.

 

 

 

Or sharpen the end and have it come up through the drivers seat!! :w00t:

 

Seriously, the transmission idea sounds perfect.

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If I had a brand new vehicle I might want to check with an auto electric shop or dealer for ideas? Warranties and all that, don't want to void them or cause issues?

Yeah that's a thought I never took into consideration... I'll have to talk with the sales/service to get their thoughts on it

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Yeah that's a thought I never took into consideration... I'll have to talk with the sales/service to get their thoughts on it

 

I'm a geezer, back in the day it was as easy as installing a switch to ground out a coil supply or distributor wire. I really haven't kept up with all the electric systems on vehicles to even attempt that now!

 

My son helps a guy out that runs a local auto electric shop, they install remote starters and auto radios and lighting packages, he may have some ideas.

 

Most vehicle these days have electric fuel pumps? Kill the source of power and no go? No idea about safety issues involved?

Edited by OhioFisherman
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do the fuel pump kill switch, very easy and effective. cost less than $20 in supplies and 1hr to install.

 

That will likely trip a code and set the light. The direct injection systems are not anything like the multi-port systems that ran at 60psi fuel pressures. Direct injection pressure ranges from 290psi - 2200psi and can hit as high as 3100psi before a pressure relief valve will open. When dealing with 2 fuel pumps and these high pressures, there are a number of checks and balances that are constantly monitored. Disconnecting the primary low pressure pump; the primary pump control module will not see the voltage drop it's expecting and send a message to the ECM (Engine Control Module) which in-turn will likely trip a code.

 

Dan.

Edited by DanD
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Maybe check these out, looks like they may have already done the figuring out part They don't tell you how to wire it until you buy it though otherwise they would never sell any since there's not much to them physically. You don't want to disconnect your battery or wire into anything that will cause CEL issues but I would have to think that this has been taken into account by whoever designed them:

 

http://www.killswitchcentral.com/

Edited by G.mech
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