oldphart Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 ~~I have an 12" thin crack in my bow at the base where it meets the centre hull. I've stopped the rack from spreading by drilling a small hole at each end, and have used most products to cover the crack (JB Weld) and a few others. and works for a short time but need to do it every year, this year I am going to try it from the inside using a can of Flex Seal as seen on TV. Bought a 16oz can of Liquid Rubber, and am hopping to pour it above the crack so it flows down and over it, sealing the crack from the inside. My biggest problem is getting the front deck floor up, boat is a 16.5 Tracker, and what they did was put some glue on top of the heads and some carpet fiber on it, so they are hard to find, with my bad eyes, most of the screws are Philips, with a few Robinson thrown in to give me a challenge. Meanwhile phishen partners are asking when can we get out on the water, I'm suggesting a few spots on shore Will post again as how I make out, will be a while, the screw are difficult and I'm old, and slow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G.mech Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 One way to find the screws buried in the carpet is with a continuity tester. Ground one lead and poke through the carpet with the other lead, When the tester beeps you've hit metal. Not high tech but it help find them sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wkrp Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 3M 5200 adhesive sealant should do it for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom S Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 Just thinking out lout here, but if you apply your sealant from the inside and let it flow into the crack won't it be forced back out of the crack during use? Wouldn't you want to apply it from the exterior so that any water pressure would hold the sealant on the crack? Thinking in terms of sealing elements such as o-rings, gaskets, and such you want to support that sealing element as much as you can, as it's not a strong component on it's own and can easily be torn if not properly supported. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porkpie Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 I'd go with the 3m 5200 as well. Canadian tire sells it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
floater Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 I too had a crack in my tinny. I used the aluminum brazing rods from Princess auto and it worked great! Just heat all around the crack before trying to apply the rod. Heehee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmer Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 (edited) Do what floater said, that would beat any adhesive process. Be careful heat aluminium though. Maybe a local welder can do it??? Edited April 13, 2017 by jimmer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanD Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 I too had a crack in my tinny. I used the aluminum brazing rods from Princess auto and it worked great! Just heat all around the crack before trying to apply the rod. Heehee X2 https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/1-8-x-18-in-self-fluxing-aluminum-brazing-rods/A-p8471088e A plumber's propane torch to warm the general area and then a mini torch to weld the crack. https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/mini-butane-torch/A-p8532301e The stuff works easily, almost like soldering. Dan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldphart Posted April 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 ~~~Thanks for the info, and the Ideas guys, by using the Rods I'll need to clean the old sealant off first, which was a pain to put on, when your laying on your back, and by going from inside leaving the old stuff on, should help to stem the flow of water. The old girl getting old 20 years I've had her, with no real major repair bills Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Ironmaker Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 (edited) Stay away from that "As seen on TV" sealant crap. It doesn't work and is a pain to get it all out. The best way to repair it once and for all is to weld it. And buy extra material it is a Cracker after all. (sorry couldn't help myself) As far as buddies waiting for you to get "their" boat ready I would also suggest they find a nice spot on shore or get their butts over your place to help. When we first bought our summer cottage I rented it out a few times to guys at work. When one guy found out Barry and his family stayed for free he lost it. Barry rewired the place for me at zero charge, a weeks worth of hydro and water is a great deal to me. Everyone knew I was remodeling it, some offered help in exchange for food and beverage, many wanted to know when it would be ready. Tom S, you are bang on neighbour. The best seal would be on the pressure side. There is an extreme amount of hydrostatic pressure on the outside hull of a boat. In industry seal valves are installed where pressure is always on the side of the valve that forces it into the valve seat. Edited April 13, 2017 by Old Ironmaker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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