mike rousseau Posted June 28, 2015 Report Posted June 28, 2015 Hey all I think I'm right in my thinking here... I don't use my electric bow mount many days of the year so I only run 1 deep cycle battery to reduce weight... Problem is when I need my trolling motor i have to baby it to make it last all day... Definitely won't last long if it's windy.., I want to run my wires off my outboard through one of these http://www.cabelas.com/product/Blue-Sea-Systems-Dual-Battery-Switch/1570403.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3FrecordsPerPage%3D18%26No%3D0%26N%3D0%26nl%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3DBattery%2Bselector%26search%3DSearch&No=0&Ntt=Battery+selector My thinking is I could start my outboard then switch to my deep cycle while I troll to charge up a bit... Or in a pickle let my outboard idle while I use my electric... It's easy to pack extra gas... Question is will the interruption in power when turning the switch shut down my outboard? Has anyone done this sort if set up? I'm sure this has been brought up before but I'm asking again.... Thanks
John Bacon Posted June 28, 2015 Report Posted June 28, 2015 What year is your outboard? The older ones do not require a battery to run (pull start motors run fine without a battery). The electronics in newer engines can be damaged if a battery is not connected to the system when they are running. I not convinced that this will accomplish what you need anyways. Electric motors draw a lot of current; generators on outboards don't provide a lot of current.
mike rousseau Posted June 28, 2015 Author Report Posted June 28, 2015 It's a 2012 Yamaha 4 stroke And I'd be running the outboard at least 3-4 hours a day which I would think would give me a significant charge...
Terry Posted June 28, 2015 Report Posted June 28, 2015 ;it will help and you should have no problem switching over
bobkayla Posted June 28, 2015 Report Posted June 28, 2015 Running it this way wIl interfer with your sonar units when the trolling motor is on
irishfield Posted June 28, 2015 Report Posted June 28, 2015 (edited) Just go into CTC and buy one of these for 80 bucks. Clip the wire from motor to battery on the charge circuit, feed this unit from the motor.. original battery on one tap and run a heavy wire from the other output to the trolling motor +. You will have to make sure you trolling motor battery is grounded to the motor / boat as well. Just make sure you put it up somewhere dry or pay the big bucks for a sealed unit. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/automotive/batteries-accessories/battery-maintenance-tools/battery-isolators/120a-battery-isolator-0111816p.html?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=Default&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default Edited June 28, 2015 by irishfield
Consigliere Posted June 29, 2015 Report Posted June 29, 2015 A switch will not do what you are hoping. At best you have all your accessories wired to your deep cycle and using the switch you could run them off your start battery - if that is your goal it will work. However I can't see how just putting a switch in will actually charge your deep cycle. The switch is intended as an isolator only. I think you are wanting an ACR. This will allow you to run the outboard and when the starter battery is fully charged the extra charge will flow over to the deep cycle. In practice I'm not sure this will actually work that well it depends on how much current your outboard actually puts out but the ACR is the only way I can see doing what you are wanting. Get the Blue Seas Add A Battery kit then you get a switch and an ACR. This way you are ever stuck you can start your outboard from the deep cycle.
mike rousseau Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Posted June 29, 2015 Thanks for the feedback everyone
OhioFisherman Posted June 29, 2015 Report Posted June 29, 2015 25 amp alternator? Don't most cars have a 100 amp or more? I doubt if it would be a lot of help.
fish_fishburn Posted June 29, 2015 Report Posted June 29, 2015 I had a battery maintenance system on my bassboat. Upon start up it would analyse all three batteries and send power from the alternator to the weakest battery first. I forget the name of it but it worked great and my batteries were always charged. Check with a dealer and they should know what I'm talking about.
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