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Trailer light install


mistaredone

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I picked up a set of submersible trailer lights from CT. They provide merits to connect the wires at the lights? Would that not short out the light when submerged? I was expecting to connect the wires at the pug or a different connection with shrink tubs?? Any advise would be appreciated.

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I unplug when launching. However I did use the merettes, I used die electric grease to fill the void and waterproof the connections. I figure if I have an issue, a greased merette is easier to take apart roadside than a solder and heat shrunk connection

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I always said that too Bill.. never an issue with my 2003 F150 and the first time I backed the trailer in with my '11 it blew the fuse. With mine I have to wait 'till I'm right down the ramp.. as I have an electric pressure release solenoid on the surge brakes.

 

Throw the maretts away and buy a few GOOD butt connectors with the silicon inside them. Once they're squeezed they're sealed.

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I picked up a set of submersible trailer lights from CT. They provide merits to connect the wires at the lights? Would that not short out the light when submerged? I was expecting to connect the wires at the pug or a different connection with shrink tubs?? Any advise would be appreciated.

 

Use heat shrinkable crimp connectors.

They are totally waterproof when sealed.

They have them @ my Canadian Tire here.

 

Heat_Shrink_Terminals.jpg

 

There is hot melt glue on the inside of the heat shrink tube to seal the connection.

 

krimpaseal3.jpg

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Yup shrink sleeve with the sealant inside or the line of connectors that have the sealant inside. Never unhook lights on ranger trailer with all sealed lights. Ssome of the older trailers that had the standard 1157 bulb s unhooked them cold water and hot glass a nono

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since the old man put LED's (not crappy tire ones...they burnt out within a year....but ones that came from a marina and cost about 1.5x's the cost) on my trailer, I've never unplugged, and never had an issue...this will be the third season.

 

buy quality LED's and you don't have to worry about unplugging them.

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I always run a separate ground wire from the tongue back to each light and bonded to the frame at each end. Most of the issues I've ever had with trailer lights were due to a bad ground or continuity from the front to the back of the trailer.

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I never disconnect the trailer when launching, never an issue. I'm running LEDs on our boat trailer (And pretty much anything else we tow.

Never an issue? Not yet anyway. LED or not, for the time it takes to unplug it, why take that chance? Trust me.

Edited by moxie
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Funny mistar, last week I bought the same light kit you bought for my tinny, and a new tire and rim for my pontoon trailer. Trailers = troubles

 

That light kit is submersible but not sealed, it gets wet and drains out, hot light bulbs and cold water shatters bulbs

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Funny mistar, last week I bought the same light kit you bought for my tinny, and a new tire and rim for my pontoon trailer. Trailers = troubles

 

That light kit is submersible but not sealed, it gets wet and drains out, hot light bulbs and cold water shatters bulbs

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Funny mistar, last week I bought the same light kit you bought for my tinny, and a new tire and rim for my pontoon trailer. Trailers = troubles

 

That light kit is submersible but not sealed, it gets wet and drains out, hot light bulbs and cold water shatters bulbs

You can say that again!! :clapping:

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Each there own i guess.

Been not unhooking same trailer for last 8 years all still works never repalced a single light all fepends pn quality of trailer lights to begin with.

Need any help fixingit swing by wont take.me very long

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