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Smoker Craft Restoration..Need advice..


tb4me
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So here's what I decided to start this weekend..IMG_20150510_175204_zps1280bfb5.jpg

I wanted to dive into this in April but the boat was in lock down in a barn.. I just got her out this weekend. The floors were soft the last 2 years so i milked it as long as possible.. Well I have to admit im in it up to my eyes..Its an 18 foot with 2 live wells and a walk thru window. The floor is so bad the only thing keeping me from falling thru is the carpet. The passenger console came right off, the screws holding it to the floor came right out effortlessly... All i had to do was drill out the side rivets and lift it out..Now the drivers side is where I need the advice..Its just a bad and rotten as the other side. My question is, is there any way to take that section of floor out without disconnecting all the cables, steering and wiring? Can it just be lifted a little to drill out the old rivets and slide new plywood under, or is this a major project now including ripping all that apart too?
Also what about that monstrosity of a fuel tank.. I dont use it as its part full of water. I have never used it in the 3 years I have owned this boat.i want to get it out of there as there seems to be a way for water to get in it. If I drill out all the rivets that hold those 5 inch aluminum strips will that mess up the structural integrity of the vessel? Ill be replacing everything with aluminum rivets and stainless hardware. I will also be using 3/4 inch fur plywood coated with resin all over including the cuts. Is there any more advice you all want to lend? How about a hand? lol all the beer you can drink (after) and some awesome fishing on the Trent River!

Edited to add that ill be using marine grade vinyl flooring when its all done..



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Edited by tb4me
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Your in it far enough that you should do it right.

The steering cable is easy to disconnect from the helm.

The wiring, not so much but is not a big deal if you take your time and make good notes of where all the wires are supposed to go.

 

Looks like no issue removing and reinstalling the straps over the gas tank.

Why not replace it with a plastic or fiberglass unit?

 

 

FYI, this is the kind of project you do in the garage in the winter. ;)

Edited by DRIFTER_016
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I wont get back up there until Friday for the long weekend.. So I have a ton time to plan..I was thinking of installing a new smaller tank and adding in floor storage. Right now we just use a red marine fuel tank. Man i really dont want to tear all that wiring apart. When i took the front apart the switch broke for the motor trim when i was gently pulling the wires off the back of the switch. Good luck replacing that switch now..I hear ya Dave my gut tells me to rip it all out but im no electrician.

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When I rebuilt the helm in my boat I put quick disconnects in the wiring harness for easy removal. ;)

I also installed a new power center and VHF as well as new gauges, steering wheel, steering wheel and helm...... :D

 

This is what it looked like before.

 

old.jpg

 

And my wiring on the back side of the new helm.

 

reverse.jpg

 

And the after view.

The cover on the switch plate comes off and there are fuses underneath it.

Saves having to crawl under the dash to find out which one is dead if there is a problem.

 

new.jpg

 

new2.jpg

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The fuel cell can be removed but make sure you replace it with one that is rated for being covered. You can not put a mobile cell in, The fiberglass cells are prone to dissolving in ethanol so plastic or aluminum is preferred. Wires are not scary if you take your time. I usually replace all of the wiring and make my own loom but if that is not something you are comfortable with then you can get assorted wire connector blocks and cut them and install the disconnect as you go. The 2 plates that you remove to remove the fuel cell need to be reinstalled for support. Electronic shops or auto store sell the disconnects or on line is also a good option. The most important thing is to take your time it took me over 2 months to get a Ranger back together.

 

 

Art

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Smokercraft, Sylvan, Starcraft I think they are related companies like Chev, Pontiac and Buick, anyway the Starcraft forum on iboats has some of the best rebuilds of tin boats out there with a lot of experienced people commenting and coaching along the way. Maybe start with the 3rd sticky on rebuilds and restorations .

 

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owners-groups-by-manufacturer/s/starcraft-boats

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When you remove all the fasteners holding down the the console you should be able to raise the console up and it should give you plenty of room to replace the floor section without disconnecting anything.

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No advice to offer, but that looks like an early 90's Phazer. If so, great boat! You'll be very happy once you've put the work into it! Good luck, and look forward to seeing the finished product!

Good eye! Thats exactly what it is..Im reading in the manual its not an 18 footer at all...Its a 17.2 lol

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Thanks for all the advice and the link..Ill keep you all posted as to my progress..The boat is not here with me so ill only get to work on it when im at the trailer..Thats going to kill me softly...lol

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Raise console a bit and replace wood under it. Get it done before summer is over.

Lol thats what i was thinking too..However I just heard back from my good friends from Ohio.. They have given me use of their 14 footer for as long as they are not here in Canada! So knowing that now I may just take it completely apart and do it right.

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Any chance you can convert it into a tiller,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, :whistling::tease:

 

Look forward to your end result. Looks like you have a boat load of work there.

lol dont laugh..There is a guy that fishes the bay with an 18 foot fiberglass inboard..The motor quit running years ago..He has a nice Honda 9.9 tiller to slowly move around the bay..One heck of a walleye fisherman I might add..lol

 

 

Also does anyone have any tips on how to get the glued on carpet off the aluminum? Its glued everywhere.. Live wells consoles its everywhere..I can pull the carpet off no problem, but the remaining glue and carpet stuff it stuck there good. What can I use without damaging the aluminum?

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Rag soaked in Acetone. Soak the rag.. place it over a section and cover with a piece of rubber mat (or similar) for a few minutes (mat stops the acetone from evaporating. Lift the mat and see if the glue will scrub off.. or at least soften up enough to just a PLASTIC scraper.

 

Acetone is $9 a quart can at CTC. Believe TSC sells gallon jugs for not much more...

Remember any gouges or deep scratches you put in that .040 or .063" thick side wall = a stress point for a crack.

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As Wayne stated try acetone, it is awesome! Wear a proper mask while using acetone, it has terrible fumes, that are very harmful. As already stated, take your time, do it right. Take lots of pix of your wiring, also label your wiring with color coded tape. I'm also interested in seeing the finished product.

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Good eye! Thats exactly what it is..Im reading in the manual its not an 18 footer at all...Its a 17.2 lol

So it shrunk over time.....LOL

 

As other said, don't remove the console, just work around it by lifting it up enough and maybe plan your floor plan to be cut so you can easily put that piece under it. The floor doesn't have to be exactly like the original because once you cover it with carpet no one knows anyways.

 

To get rounded / contoured cuts right, get some larger pieces of flat cardboard and trim to fit nicely. Then use that to transfer to your plywood floor, it beats re-cutting plywood several times.

 

Now 'Get R Done'

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Also does anyone have any tips on how to get the glued on carpet off the aluminum? Its glued everywhere.. Live wells consoles its everywhere..I can pull the carpet off no problem, but the remaining glue and carpet stuff it stuck there good. What can I use without damaging the aluminum?

 

Use a paint scraper and elbow grease.

I replaced all the carpet in my boat and every piece is/was glued to aluminium.

All the floor boards in my boat are aluminium as well.

The only wood on my boat is the core of the transom and two pieces of teak on the top decks.

 

P6070004.jpg

 

P6070005.jpg

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Wow - looks like a big project. Can't wait to see how it turns out!

 

Dave - where did you get the switch panel for your lights, bilge etc? I want to add one in to my boat and like that one better than the ones I have seen at Bass Pro.

 

Thanks

Pete

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Wow - looks like a big project. Can't wait to see how it turns out!

 

Dave - where did you get the switch panel for your lights, bilge etc? I want to add one in to my boat and like that one better than the ones I have seen at Bass Pro.

 

Thanks

Pete

 

Here you go Pete.

Find the panel you want and click on where to buy for a list of dealers.

Pretty much any marine supply place should be able to order you one if needed.

 

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/DC_Panels/WeatherDeck

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When I did mine I took the time to completely disconnect everything and separate the cables into their own conduits. You can erect a tripod system to suspend the console but as other have said, do it right.

Marine mohagony ply is nice but expensive. That said, pressure treated reacts with aluminum and will eat it.

Templates are your friend.

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When I did mine I took the time to completely disconnect everything and separate the cables into their own conduits. You can erect a tripod system to suspend the console but as other have said, do it right.

Marine mohagony ply is nice but expensive. That said, pressure treated reacts with aluminum and will eat it.

Templates are your friend.

Im just going to use 3/4 inch fur plywood and coat it in resin..Every where I screw or rivet Ill pump the hole full of clear silicone..My wife is good at making patterns,so ill enlist her for making templates

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