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Musky Newbie Questions!


James77

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Hey guys,

I've just started targeting Musky specifically recently and I have a wack load of questions, literally if anyone can help out with any info that would be most excellent!

 

I bought my first musky rod set up and my first baitcaster. I got an Abu Garcia C4 5600 and a Bass Pro Shops Musky rod, it is 6'3 and XHEAVY

I found a good deal on the combo but will probably change out the rod.

 

I'm looking for recommendations on what rod to go for on a budget (Under $180) but with quality in mind. I fish in the Kawartha's and will mostly be using the rod for large rapala lures, and some bucktails (double 10's being the biggest.) and some smaller rubbers.

 

I have 65 pound test fireline on right now, I assume that will be sufficient for Kawartha musky action, correct?

 

My time is pretty much split 50/50 on casting and trolling.

 

I see that bigger rods are the trend, so I was thinking a 7'6 MH power with a lure rating of 1-4 oz?

What is the advantage of the longer rod compared to the 6'3 I have now?

 

When I am casting out with my bait caster, if I engage the reel while the cast is still in the air to slap a spoon or to just make sure it's swimming as soon as it hits the water, will that mess with my gears? It sounded unpleasant as if I was putting stress on it.

When trolling, do you have the reel engaged, or do you have the bail open with your thumb on the line?

 

Do you crimp your barbs when Musky fishing?

 

Are there specific scenarios when you should try an occasional figure 8? I see some do it after every cast is retrieved.

 

I'm sure I'll have some more stupid questions later as I'm just getting used to this rod setup.

 

Thanks for the help!

 

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I'd go with something 8-8.5' with a rating of 2-6oz. This will handle a wide range of baits.

 

65 lb. will do, but one birdsnest and SNAP, go with 80 as a minimum.

 

Use your thumb to stop the lure, do not engage while line is going out...

 

When trolling, assuming your using a rod holder, set the drag so line will go out but not too easily, turn 'clicker' on. If you don't have a clicker, either hold the rod or keep a close eye on it.

 

Some anglers use barbless hooks, better for the fish, safer for you...all a matter of choice.

 

In dirty water, or in low light, do a f-8 or L-turn on every cast, otherwise always watch for follows and do a f-8/L when you see one. Or do one every cast and you WILL catch more Muskies.

 

Attend a local Muskies Canada meeting, ask questions, make friends...No pressure to join, guests are always welcome!

Edited by Pigeontroller
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Hey guys,

I've just started targeting Musky specifically recently and I have a wack load of questions, literally if anyone can help out with any info that would be most excellent!

 

I bought my first musky rod set up and my first baitcaster. I got an Abu Garcia C4 5600 and a Bass Pro Shops Musky rod, it is 6'3 and XHEAVY

I found a good deal on the combo but will probably change out the rod.

 

I'm looking for recommendations on what rod to go for on a budget (Under $180) but with quality in mind. I fish in the Kawartha's and will mostly be using the rod for large rapala lures, and some bucktails (double 10's being the biggest.) and some smaller rubbers.

 

I have 65 pound test fireline on right now, I assume that will be sufficient for Kawartha musky action, correct?

 

My time is pretty much split 50/50 on casting and trolling.

 

I see that bigger rods are the trend, so I was thinking a 7'6 MH power with a lure rating of 1-4 oz?

 

What is the advantage of the longer rod compared to the 6'3 I have now?

 

When I am casting out with my bait caster, if I engage the reel while the cast is still in the air to slap a spoon or to just make sure it's swimming as soon as it hits the water, will that mess with my gears? It sounded unpleasant as if I was putting stress on it.

 

When trolling, do you have the reel engaged, or do you have the bail open with your thumb on the line?

 

Do you crimp your barbs when Musky fishing?

 

Are there specific scenarios when you should try an occasional figure 8? I see some do it after every cast is retrieved.

 

I'm sure I'll have some more stupid questions later as I'm just getting used to this rod setup.

 

Thanks for the help!

 

A longer rod let's you cast longer without too much fatigue.

If you open spool troll with thumbing the spool your thumb will burn off when a fish hits.

Do not engage before the lure hits the water, you'll ruin your reel. Thumb it to the water and start reeling with a slight rod pull to get the lure going.

7'6" rod is going to work for you.

I rarely figure eight unless I see a fish or a shadow.

65 is as low as I would go. 80lb for casting, 100lb for trolling.

No crimp

Edited by muskymatt
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longer rod, easier to cast further and easier on the back to perform figure 8s - ie. less fatigue on the angler. the disadvantage is working jerkbaits and walk the dog style top water baits can be tougher especially if you're not fishing from a casting deck (ie. the back of the boat)

 

when it comes to reels, size of the lure is less important than the amount of water it displaces (how hard it pulls). a 10" suick is very easy to retrieve, a double 10 bucktail is hard and will destroy that little abu (and angler in the process).

 

80 lb minimum.

 

a 7'6 rod is a good starting rod and a good all-rounder. it will become a good jerkbait rod should you add to your arsenal later with a longer 8'+ rod.

 

use your thumb to stop the cast before engaging like the guys said, it'll become automatic after a while

 

reel is engaged when trolling, set your drag so that it the reel release line with a little pressure.

 

i do at least an l-turn on every cast, should figure 8 more. i've caught several fish on a f8 that i didn't even see following.

Edited by Raf
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Here's a lure tip ... was talking to a couple guys at our monthly Muskies Canada meeting who fish the Kawarthas.. They have caught 92 muskies this year. Mostly on bucktails size double 8. Also smaller size bulldawgs. Bigger isn't always better is the moral of the story.

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great info thus far. ive recently stepped up to 8'6" for the majority of muskie rods I own. there was just a recent similar thread with good info. i like the old compre full cork models but I have heard decent about the new models and theyre also reasonably priced as well as st croix premier series.

 

80# for sure.

 

always figure 8 in stained water. muskie love feeding in these areas and ive had plenty of fish rocket up and smash my baits when i would have otherwise told you there wasnt a follow until the rods almost ripped out of my hands. 8'6" also makes 8s a breeze.

 

a longer rod is personal preference. i used 7'6" for a couple years and still caught plenty of fish, so if its easier to transport and feels better to you, then dont hesitate especially since the 5600 is a little on the smaller side for really large baits as mentioned, and im sure as you get into the addiction a larger rod/reel will be a later addition.

 

For a larger rod/reel, I was once told to always spend the most on your longest/heaviest action rods because thats where the weight saving is most noticeable. imo get one of the rods i mentioned earlier for now and save up for a rod/reel combo for the big baits over the next season.

 

Good luck getting slimed!

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Rafs advice is spot on.

Start eighting every cast if u can't clearly see bottom and way out and under. U will find out why soon enough. They come out of nowhere.

A 5600 is big enuff IMO. It will match a 7'6" H nicely which is what I would buy first.

If u get the sickness bad enough you will soon be throwing massive baits and double tens on 8'6" XXH rods.

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I figure 8 most of the time after every cast and in countless 8's have only caught one I didn't see first. I think that maybe the time I spend in the figure 8 might be better spent on a new cast. Might catch more in the long run. I fish pretty clear water so you can see fish most of the time before they go into the 8. Just thinking out loud...

 

To the OP: go for a 8ft heavy 2-6oz premier, compre, etc.. When I first started fishing musky I used this as an all around rod and it covers every bait you'll need to throw, until you start expanding the aresenal.

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I figure 8 most of the time after every cast and in countless 8's have only caught one I didn't see first. I think that maybe the time I spend in the figure 8 might be better spent on a new cast.

 

I'd continue the 8 on every cast cause if you don't your gonna miss some fish and it just may be the big one your looking for. Lotsa times you'll have a fish sitting under your boat or behind you and they can be on your 8 in seconds if she's there.

 

Just my opinion though.

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8s on every cast is just good practice in the beginning. It becomes second nature and you won't freeze up or stutter when a giant is trailing in 2' behind your bait. I've had a few come from under the boat to. Probably one that followed my buddy's bait who wasn't paying attention and didn't 8

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I'd continue the 8 on every cast cause if you don't your gonna miss some fish and it just may be the big one your looking for. Lotsa times you'll have a fish sitting under your boat or behind you and they can be on your 8 in seconds if she's there.

 

Just my opinion though.

Yeah I hear ya. I've been doing it every cast for my 6+ years of fishing for ski's and have only ever had one bite that I didn't see follow first. Recently I've cut it down to just one turn boatside and if I don't see anything I go into my next cast. I still go into a full 8 a lot too, always in dark conditions. I'm pretty sure I'm just getting lazy lol!

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I agree with the longer rods. I started with a 6 foot heavy rod and what a pain it was. Moved to 7' and now got one 8'. Longer rod, easier casting and a heck of lot easier doing the fig-8. I use 80LB power pro on all our musky rods.

 

Be sure to have a good fish-friendly net to handle the size of the fish you may encounter. Good set of pliers and something to cut the hooks if you need to. I have a paid of Knipex bolt cutters and have used them at times to speed the process of getting the hooks out

 

I also have a pair of good landing gloves for handling the fish and lifting out for a quick pic.

 

Oh yeah - get yourself a boatload if patience. LOL

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I'd like to sincerely thank you all for taking the time to respond to me with your advice.

I really appreciate the help and I'm looking around for a 7'6-8' rod if anyone has one to sell.

 

I'm hitting up Lower Buckhorn Sat-Monday this weekend. Any lake specific advice? I picked up a couple Bull Dawg lures and some super shad raps and a couple smaller buck tails so I think I'm ready to go.

 

Looking back I think if I figure 8ed last trip I might have got a fish or two more. Once I couldn't see bottom but as I pulled my lure out I saw a large flash close to the bottom.

 

The second one was as I was reeling in a bass I saw a big flash as well.

Makes you think!

 

I've got all the necessary release tools including the Lindy glove after having to drive a buddy to Peterborough hospital earlier this year with a hook through the finger.

 

Thanks once again I'm hoping to have some good pictures for a report, going to be a busy weekend musky fishing all day and then walleye fishing all night.

 

James

Edited by James77
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Side note: As Raf said those gloves will not stop you from putting a hook through your hand. They'll lessen the possibility of cutting yourself while fileting fish though. The downside to those gloves is that they are not puncture proof...even worse, if you do get a hook in your hand, good luck trying to cut the glove off. Just be careful.

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As mentioned above, forget the glove as they can be more trouble than anything. Muskies are very strong and un-believably fast when they start thrashing around as your trying to get the hooks out.

 

Be VERY careful and use the long nosed pliers and hook cutters, and when you feel the fish start to tighten up...and you will...it means she's about to thrash so get your hands away from her mouth.

 

Good luck and let's see the pictures of your trip.

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Thanks guys, I do keep cutters in the boat at all times. The glove isn't bulletproof but I am always very careful with unhooking.

The incident I mentioned was while shore fishing for Walleye in the spring, and a walleye on the ground jumped and somehow drove the hook into my buddy's hand while thrashing.

Horrible situation as the barb didn't come out and couldn't be pushed out. It was also my most productive walleye night ever, Just had 4 fish in a row over 25" within minutes of eachother.

 

James

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I'm looking for recommendations on what rod to go for on a budget (Under $180) but with quality in mind. I fish in the Kawartha's and will mostly be using the rod for large rapala lures, and some bucktails (double 10's being the biggest.) and some smaller rubbers.

St Croix Musky Mojo 8 Ft Heavy Fast Action ($180)

I have 65 pound test fireline on right now, I assume that will be sufficient for Kawartha musky action, correct?

That will work, but you may find the fireline digs into the reel on the line to much, don't be to worried about line diameter with Musky (baits are large enough that it doesn't matter and Musky don't care anyway.) I prefer Tuffline 80 lb.

My time is pretty much split 50/50 on casting and trolling.

That's all personal preference but the Kawartha's (lived on chemong for 5 years) lacks in structure and you can catch more fish and cover more trolling. Also, don't be afraid to troll fast (VERY FAST). In peak summer, we used to troll up to 7 MPH, that's right, almost on plain! You'll cover more water and seek out the aggressive fish (the ones you want!)

I see that bigger rods are the trend, so I was thinking a 7'6 MH power with a lure rating of 1-4 oz?

What is the advantage of the longer rod compared to the 6'3 I have now?

You can cast further and eats WAY easier to do figure 8"s at the boat

When I am casting out with my bait caster, if I engage the reel while the cast is still in the air to slap a spoon or to just make sure it's swimming as soon as it hits the water, will that mess with my gears? It sounded unpleasant as if I was putting stress on it.

If it sounds like it hurts... It probably does!


When trolling, do you have the reel engaged, or do you have the bail open with your thumb on the line?

Engaged... Also do yourself a favour and invest in Downeaster rod holders and Bert's tackle mounts for hands free trolling.. Trust me, you don'nt want to hold your rod all day! LOL

Do you crimp your barbs when Musky fishing?

Not sure what you mean, but I turn in the hook that is closest to the belly to prevent it from tearing the bait apart.

Are there specific scenarios when you should try an occasional figure 8? I see some do it after every cast is retrieved.

Try to get in the habit of doing it every cast... You will get fish that come from NOWHERE! seriously.. like under the boat and WAM..

I'm sure I'll have some more stupid questions later as I'm just getting used to this rod setup.

Feel free to message me direct, could save you lots of time and pain.. Been through it all myself!

Edited by Regan Thompson
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Here's a few quick thoughts of mine on muskie fishing.

 

1) Rod - for casting 8' is good, 8'6" is better, 9' is best. I started out 11 years ago with a 7' and have moved my way up. Longer, easier casts, much better figure 8's are the biggest benefit. If you are only going with one rod for now, I would go with at least a heavy action rod that can throw up to 6 or 8oz baits so that you can throw all lure types up to and including big plastics with it. My go-to rod is a 9' St. Croix Big Nasty, I use it for virtually everything except for jerkbait type lures. Not cheap at nearing $400, but I love it. As I mentioned in another post, I think the St. Croix Premier line offers great value for the dollar. I have not tried the Muskie Mojo line, but have compared them to the Premiers in stores and like the Premiers better for the little extra you will pay.

 

2) Reel - don't cheap out here. Yes, you can get away with using a reel like an Abu C3 6500, but if you plan on throwing big inlines like twin 10's then spend the extra money on a reel that is designed for the task. Abu Revo Toro Winch or NaCl, Shimano Calcutta D are two of the good ones. You will spend $300-400 on one of these reels, a bit less if you manage to find a good used one. If money is no object ($500+) the Shimano TranX is THE reel for muskie baits

 

3) Line - for Kawartha applications go with 80lb braid of your choice. I like tried and true Powerpro, and it has never failed me. Even though I spend the majority of my muskie fishing time in the Kawarthas, my casting rods are rigged up with 100lb, as I head to Lake of the Woods every year, and other fisheries where true giants swim. My trolling rods have 80lb.

 

4) Leaders - another key component - and not to be cheaped out on. I use 130lb or 150lb florocarbon leaders with Stay-Lok swivels and snaps. I make these myself, as it saves money in the long run and you can also customize them to whatever length you desire. For casting I prefer 12", for trolling 18-24". If trolling on very clear bodies of water then I go even longer (48"). There are plenty of tutorials on Youtube on how to make these. Store bought are fine too, but can be pricey.

 

5) Lures. I used to be a total tackle junkie, and by many people's standards still am... but in the past few seasons I have found that I generally use 3 colours of any given lure. Something bright (ie chartreuse, orange), something natural (ie perch, walleye, silver) and something dark (black, dark brown etc). You can pretty much cover all the different light and water conditions with those in my opinion. You don't need to buy mountains of lures to catch fish. Stick to proven fish catchers like Jakes, Grandmas, Shallow Raiders and you will figure out which ones run the best for the lakes you like to fish. Dadson's, Kelly Kustoms and Handlebarz are among my favourite inlines, with other good producs being offered by Mepps (H210) and a few others. I am actually not a big fan of the original Cowgirls although many people use them. You will soon develop confidence in certain lures or colours - run with it. Confidence is key. If you think you will catch fish on a certain lure, you will fish it well... and presentation is very important...

 

6) Fishing locations. When you do catch a fish, look at the location that you caught it and figure out why it was there. Check the depth, weed type/growth, other structure like rocks... baitfish... use these pieces of the puzzle on other parts of the lake to try and repeat the pattern. Some fish are roamers and are in a location for no apparent reason, but more often than not, muskies are there for a reason. Cover and availability of food are key. When fishing a lake for the first time, break it down beforehand on a map and look for spots that you think might be fishy. The first time I fished Sturgeon Lake, I did just this, and boated 8 muskies in an afternoon! There is also plenty of information online that can help you figure out lakes. Boards like this and PM's are also very helpful :) Another good idea is to pick a lake that is known to have lots of muskies, and fish it hard until you build your confidence and refine your techniques... then go exploring.

 

7) Weather. I have found that certain lakes totally shut down when the weather is nice - bright sun and bluebird skies - you might as well pack up and go somewhere else! Others are just the opposite - the fish can be on fire in these conditions. Water clarity, weed growth and other factors all determine which lakes are good in the different conditions. In general, I prefer overcast skies with a a slight chop on the water.

 

8) Bite windows. I have had days when I am raising fish all day long, but they just won't eat. You go back there later in the day, maybe if the weather changes or as the sun is going down - and they just start smashing your lures! Muskies certainly seem to feed during these windows, dawn and dusk being big ones daily - but even things like moon phases and barometric pressure play a part. My theory - if you see a fish worth catching, go back to it several times that day as conditions change. You should always try and put yourself in prime locations for the peak times when muskies eat. My best has always been dusk.

 

9) Good release tools are a must. Big net, bolt cutters, jaw spreaders and long pliers are all essential tools. In the past two years, I have really started cutting hooks with my Knipex cutters instead of pulling them out with pliers - it is far better for the fish, and often speeds up the release process dramatically and is safer for the angler as well. I keep a supply of 3/0, 5/0 and 7/0 hooks in my boat. In the grand scheme of things they are very inexpensive, and it only takes seconds to put on a new hook afterwards.

 

10) Photos. Keep the camera close by, always check your batteries before every trip and make sure that everyone fishing with you knows how to use it! When you catch your first trophy, you want to capture that moment well! If you plan on fishing solo, come up with a system to take good pictures - and practice beforehand! I have used a tripod before, but they don't do well in a boat when it is choppy... I smashed a Nikon camera a few years ago to prove it! My system these days - I have a seat post on the front deck with a camera mounted on it at a good height. I have the self timer set to 10 seconds... I grab the muskie out of the net, press the button and get to my spot. Minimal out of water time for the fish, and pretty decent pictures most of the time. Putting it on video is also a good option as you can later take stills out of the video...

 

11) Network. OFC, Muskies Canada... the more muskie fishermen you talk to and fish with the better. Each will offer you something that you have never seen before...

 

12) Almost forgot to mention figure 8's! DO THEM! That is all! Many muskie experts catch up to 75% of ALL their fish on the 8. Not kidding.

 

Be patient and have fun along the way... it can be the most frustrating species to fish for, but also the most rewarding. Giants await you!

 

Cheers

Pete

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