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Canoe Downrigger (update)


Doctrt

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Hey Guys,

I'll be camping at Kiosk Campground at the top of Algonquin in a few weeks. With portages into speck lakes looking like a difficult prospect (heavy canoe and no help) I've designed this electric motor bracket for the canoe that will double as a downrigger. It locks on to the canoe really well but I've yet to try the rigger.

image.jpg

The lake there apparently has lakers down deep. Has anyone tried this before? I'd appreciate any suggestions or advice.

Tim

Edited by Doctrt
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I can see how this would work quite well and not too bulky. A line counter on your reel would give you a general idea of depth or marking the "ball" on the fishfinder would allow you to see if you are in the "zone". Could mount a line counter on the "rigger", would not need a heavy ball either. What are you using for release clips? A stacker clip might be a good option a couple of feet above the weight. Does this mount in front of you or behind you in the canoe? Might be concerned about the "rigger line" getting caught in the electric motor while trolling along. (nay need a longer "boom" to help keep it away from the motor) Would be nice to see some pics of it rigged on the boat.

 

It is a cool idea!

Edited by fishnsled
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Thanks for the suggestions and replies. The idea of checking the ball depth with the fishfinder should work well. I've also considered marking the line (using white out or nail polish) every ten feet. I have a small rigger ball (not sure of the weight but its the next size down from the standard size, I think about half as heavy). It should work fine as the rigger line is low diameter (100lb power pro) and the motor won't move me too fast. I plan on using (and have in the past) used standard rigging clips, and I may use a stacker, although I don't want to over-complicate things. As far as the outrigger suggestion goes and getting it caught in the motor, I don't think it will be necessary. As you can see the motor mounts on the left side of the mount in the picture and the rigger line threads though the loops to the opposite side. The torque placed on the boats axis by the trolling motor is actually minimal considering how heavy it is, likely because of how far towards the back of the canoe it sits (behind me). Any weight of the rigger ball, will only act to offset this torque as it sits on the opposite side. I'll set the drag on the reel loose enough for safety purposes. I will look into buying a small line counter. I think it would be cool to use. I hope to have something to post when we get back, if nothing more than that it worked.

Tim

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  • 2 weeks later...

I managed to find a Cannon Downrigger (20$ at a garage sale) to sub for the makeshift one that I had made. Now that I'm all set up, does anyone have any info on the lake (Kioshkokwi). Recommendations on lure choices, depths, or locations (for lakers) is what I'm looking for. Thanks in advance.

Tim

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Buy a bait needle and thread a (dead) minnow onto a gangtroll

 

Exactly what Joeytier said. This has really worked well for me on that lake. I was using frozen herring.

 

However I mainly use and steel line setup. at the end a 5-6" spoon, rigged with bait. The key is the threaded trailer hook that not only helps keep the bait on your hook, but helps hooking the short striking fish. Make sure the bait your using hasn't gotten all "mushy" other wise it'll have a hard time keeping it on your spoon. I have even done well using a spoon alone, no bait.

 

Good luck!

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