bh87ss Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 Hello Everyone, looking to draw on your experience regarding the right propeller for a Yamaha F150 motor, motor is mounted on a Lund 1800 Fisherman. Motor currently has a 141/4 x 18 SS 3 blade propeller, I want to put on an aluminum propeller for those shallow and rocky northern lakes (a just in case moment), read all kinds of advice between a 17 or 19 pitch for optimum performance and WOT to 6000 RPM, certainly someone on this board has been through this with this package and can provide first hand knowledge. I figure total weight with 2 guys, gear and full tank of fuel I am around 2500 Lbs, I beleive I hit about 5400 RPM with the current propeller. So is a 17 or 19, your experience, knowledge is very much appreciated. Thanks Folks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillM Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 19 for the hole shot, 17 for more top end speed closer to your rpm limit. All depends on what you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bh87ss Posted May 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 Thanks Bill, is the difference between hole shot very noticable when running with the 17". Would either prop perform differently when trolling in LO for salmon? I guess my question is does one troll down better speed wise than the other? I understand getting closer to 6000 RPM at the top end is the ultimate goal. Thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillM Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 I put my spare prop on last year because I messed up my normal prop and the hole shot different was insane (It has a different pitch then the stock prop)... Top end sucked (I probably lost 5mph) but that thing came out of the hole so fast it was crazy. I actually gotta put it back on because I destroyed the standard prop last weekend. I am kinda in the same boat, looking for that 'perfect' prop with a combination of great hole shot and better top end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan668 Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 If your looking for aluminum try the spitfire/nemesis four blade props. They are what I run. I may have lost 1 mph but holeshot and handling was mch improved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fisher Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 (edited) My understanding is that if you go up in pitch, ie 18 to 19, you will lose some on the hole shot and lose RPM but may gain in higher end top speed. From what I read you want to hit as close to top rpm without impairing your hole shot to the point where it drags. From what you mention, optimum rpm at wot is 6000 rpm yet you are achieving 5400 rpm. In my view you should drop pitch to 17 from 18 which should give you a better hole shot and allow you to reach closer to 6000 rpm. May even increase top end speed. You have to find that right balance for your needs. Hole shot and top end. Hole shot is key if you need it to get on plane faster or to pull a skier. I have a 15 pitch and am going to try a 17 pitch on my new boat that has a 115 merc. I had a hard time with getting up on plane that I posted about a few weeks ago but since added smart tabs and is much much better. Now I can afford to go to a 17 pitch to try to increase my top end speed. Edited May 13, 2014 by fisher Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fisher Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 You are planning to troll with your 150? How slow does it get down to on your current prop? Have you considered a kicker? Long run may save you some $$ on gas, maintenance and repairs on the 150. Plus it's insurance in case the 150 conks out. Some of the reasons I got a kicker on my boat that has a 115. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lape0019 Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 I am going through the complete opposite of trying to find an SS prop to replace my aluminum. Because SS is harder, it does not flex as much so if you are running a 18P SS, you would probably want to stay around a 19P to get the same performance. If you want to gain some RPM (which it looks like you do), I would suggest the 17P which should increase your RPM's by 400-500RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bh87ss Posted May 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 Great comments and feedback everyone, I agree that with you that with a 17" my hole shot won't be as good but my top end and RPM will be where in the right zone, the 19" will certainly give me the same punch I am used to out of the hole but may continue to operate at the same RPM I am seeing now. I think I am going to give the 17 a try and see how it goes, most trips I am not carrying a full load and full fuel tank, reduced weight should give me what I want, I also can put the SS back on for those days I need to tackle some other water sports, it has and does perform well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bacon Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 Have you considered the graphite props with replaceable blades? I think the full prop is priced similar to aluminium; but the blades and hub can be replaced separately; so fixing a damaged prop may be cheaper. E.g. I recently damage a single blade of my prop; with graphite I could have just replaced that one blade. You can also have two sets of blades so you can switch the pitch of the of the prop I don't have the brand name handy; they were at the sportsman show.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey buoy Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 I went from a 21(great top end)Hole slot was sluggish.Dropped to a 17pitch.Best move I made.Hole shot on plane 10secs.Top end,lost about 8mph.Still More than fast enough.Brought my rpm's up to 4500 plus.That's enough for a v8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbuck Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 Go 17p. The LOWER the number, the quicker the hole shot, the higher the wot rpms BUT slightly lower top end. Try a 4 blade 17p aluminum, it will jump onto plane and handle nicely too. For fine tuning, a good prop shop can change the pitch up or down 1 inch, so your 17 can become either a 16 or an 18. Def leave the stainless at home when fishing unfamiliar water or a body that has many rocks and shoals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom McCutcheon Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Pirannah Prop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIFTER_016 Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 (edited) Rocks suck!!!! I know because they are everywhere up in my area. Dinged up 2 props last year. No where to get them repaired up here either. I took them on vacation with me and had them fixed in Florida. I have a jack plate and was having a slippage issue when running the motor higher than stock. They were able to fix the props and add some cup to the blades to help it bite a little better when running jacked. I also bought one of the Nemisis 4 blade aluminum props to run as well. Looking forward to ice out so I can see how it handles/performs with the new prop. OH, and like every one is saying, drop to a 17P prop and you will be happy. I'm running 17P 3 and 4 blade units on my 18' Fisher with 115HP OB. Edited May 14, 2014 by DRIFTER_016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bh87ss Posted May 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 All great info and responses, this has been the worst thing in the world to research and certainly everyone has great opinions and information to help a guy make the right choice. I know I have certainly benefited from this thread and hope others have as well. So when I get that 17 on the boat and I am water testing on Temagami next week I will be sure to update everyone on the performance/pro's and cons...I have decided on the Solas Rubex, has the rubber hub to reduce shift clunk and the reports looks decent. Wish me luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan668 Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Nemesis 17p four blade. Get it. You can find it for under 200. Runs great on my Lund with a 115. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillM Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Nemesis 17p four blade. Get it. You can find it for under 200. Runs great on my Lund with a 115. New or used? This sounds like something I need to look into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIFTER_016 Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 New or used? This sounds like something I need to look into. That's new price Bill. Mine was $125 US new in Florida. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillM Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Wow, that's dirt cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIFTER_016 Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 (edited) Wow, that's dirt cheap. Yeah. The repairs were $55 per prop. Got 3 props now all in good shape. We'll see how many still look like that in the fall. Edited May 14, 2014 by DRIFTER_016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Of all lakes to water test on.. I sure hope you have an actual shoal map and aren't relying on a Navionics chart (that's a good 200 feet off on Lake T in places). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIFTER_016 Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Of all lakes to water test on.. I sure hope you have an actual shoal map and aren't relying on a Navionics chart (that's a good 200 feet off on Lake T in places). Maps? We Don't Need No Stinkin' Maps!!! Well I would like it if they actually mad one or two but I'm going to have to get a new Lowrance and make my own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 That's what the sponsored fishing "Pro" said when he picked up his Pro V the very same week I got my Baron in '07. He took off down the lake like a bat out of hell after telling the lads at the marina that he knew the lake "like the back of his hand". A banged up hull... 50+ sheared off rivets heads out of the hull and a new Opti later.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillM Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 Hey guys, another prop question... Right now I've got a 13x19P and a 13 1/4X19P.. I just found out the 13 1/4X19P I banged up isn't repairable.. The difference between the two is quite apparent. The hole shot with the 13x19P is fantastic but I'm losing about 5mph on the top end. The 13 1/4x19P hole shot isn't bad, but then again I'm gaining on the top end. So after the links Dave posted to the cheap 4 blade props, which one do I go for? I've heard of guys running anywhere from 17P to 19P's on similar boats to mine. I'm not always blasting the boat out of the hole like the guys in the bass boats, and a bit more top end would be nice so I could run the motor on a few less rpms and keep the same speed. Decisions decisions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIFTER_016 Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 My 3 blades are 13 1/4X17 and the dealer sold me a 13X17 4 blade. I would say a 13X20 in your case Bill. That should give you your hole shot + top end. You will probably lose 200 RPM on the top end over the 13X19 3 blade though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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