Outboard troubleshooting

[Steve1991]

I recently inherited a 1997 Johnson 3.3hp (model hj3roeud) outboard that hasn't been running for a while. I have it turning over now but within 3-5 seconds it dies. It sounds like it is getting too much fuel..I've played with the seat valve/float to no avail. I have spark, fresh fuel and the correct ratio in it.

 

Any tips, spec sheets, etc. would be appreciated. Hoping to use it to putz around some small back lakes this spring.

 

Thanks,

 

Steve.

[Gallie]

Have you cleaned the carb? New plugs? Test compression. So many places to look.

[Steve1991]

Yup to all. I've looked in most haha that's why I''m stumped.

[tb4me]

you can tell if its getting too much gas by inspecting the plug..Is it wet? What color is it? Is it fouled. Id start there..I would also to check that your running the correct spark plug with the right gap. Sounds to me like it cant burn everything its getting and eventually flooding out

Edited March 27, 2014 by tb4me

[Steve1991]

Youre right. Plug is new with correct gap. However after 10-15 attempts at starting, the plug is wet and fouled. Once I clean and dry and insert, the engine turns over for 3-5 seconds she dies on me. It is definitely getting flooded out, which is what led me to fiddling with the jet needle, seat and float valve.

[Tim Mills]

I've seen those on Craigslist. Looks like a good size portage motor. good luck getting it running

[Steve1991]

I've seen those on Craigslist. Looks like a good size portage motor. good luck getting it running

Thanks. Depending on my success there may be another one on there '"as is" haha.

[tb4me]

sounds like you may have the wrong jets in the carb or your air fuel mixture is way off.. When you rebuilt the carb did you order a new carb kit? Id look at the carb again.Take it apart and clean it good. If you didnt get new jets id get them. its either getting to much fuel or not enough air..

[Steve1991]

I didn't order a new kit - thought i'd give it a try prior to spending the money but that's a good point. I may order one tomorrow and try again. The jet seemed to be good but its worth spending the money on the kit given the cost of a new, small outboard.

 

Much appreciated, thanks.

[aplumma]

Recheck your float level a high float will also throw off your A/F ratio. You can also check the float by filling the carb. then clamp off the fuel line start the motor. If it runs longer than before your issue is the float however try not to run it out of gas it is tough on 2 strokes. Most carb. issues are due to being not cleaned enough or assembles wrong. I tell people to clean there carbs twice then a 3rd time before they put it back on the motor. A set of welding tip picks a can of brake cleaner and compressed air are needed to do it correctly. Make sure that as you use the picks you are using the correct size to large will damage a jet easily. Use brake cleaner it is a good solvent for fuel deposits as well as it has a straw so you can blow out every hole in the carb. no matter where it is. Make sure you are wearing safety glasses some of the ports will start off in one direction and end up pointed at your face. Air is your friend after the solvent it removes what was loosened as well as drying out the solvent. Some carbs have diaphragms and the use of solvents and air will destroy them so make sure you are working with metal only as you clean them. Best of luck

 

 

Art

[Steve1991]

Thanks Art. I will clean it again (x3) and keep fiddling with the float level to see where that takes me.

 

I appreciate the tips.

 

Steve.

[barrystrs]

Use a q-tip with toothpaste to polish the needle seat. If it still leaks you will need to order a new needle and seat.

[DanD]

I've just finished rebuilding a set of 3 carbs (6 Pack) for a 67 GTO. These carbs haven't been used for at least 20 years and with the tarnish I found inside they were likely put away wet.

The tarnish was like cement, even after soaking in a can of metal prep/cleaner the tarnish still didn't soften; some passageways were plugged solid. As a last ditch effort too save the carbs, I sent the parts into a machine shop to have them put into a hot tank and that got them clean.

My point being, sometimes the arousal cans of cleaner are just not corrosive enough to get everything clean. You may spray into a passageway and think its a blind hole when actually it's plugged with some form of harry lump.

With these small carbs I usually strip a wire twist tie and use the thin wire to chase out the passageways.

 

Dan.

 

[aplumma]

Good points Dan I use the brake cleaner as a solvent that works really well. You can take the solvent and leave it in place for 24 hours if you suspect it is not clean enough. I have in the past had to cook a carb as well that is done by putting the solvents in the passages and heating them up using a paint stripper or double broiler both need to be carefully monitored and the brake solvent needs to be the non flammable type. Most of the carb issues that come to me are it is not clean enough. The replacement of seat, jets and plungers are only needed if they are mechanically damaged or corroded which is usually due to water and not evaporated fuel. The use of a wire tie is good but you can buy a torch tip cleaner which not only is sized for the ports and passages but they are textured to clear the passages. I have also in the past had where people who have broken off a piece of the wire inside of the ports and not realized it and ruined a salvageable carb. The big thing is clean it x3 usually alleviates the issue of if the carb is at fault or not. I personally like to work on the old carbs they are comfortable to me since I have wayyyyy to many engines on the farm. lol

 

 

Art

[Steve1991]

Thanks Guys, The carb is clean as a whistle. Spotless. Unfortunately, same story with the plug coming out wet and smelling like fuel. I've ordered the carb repair kit to see where it takes me, and I'll keep you all posted. For now - it's a waiting game until the UPS man comes a knockin.

 

Much appreciated.

[BillM]

I'd do a compression test.

[moxie]

I recently inherited a 1997 Johnson 3.3hp (model hj3roeud) outboard that hasn't been running for a while. I have it turning over now but within 3-5 seconds it dies. It sounds like it is getting too much fuel..I've played with the seat valve/float to no avail. I have spark, fresh fuel and the correct ratio in it.

 

Any tips, spec sheets, etc. would be appreciated. Hoping to use it to putz around some small back lakes this spring.

 

Thanks,

 

Steve.

Iboats forums.

[LesCulpJr]

Sounds like carb is out of adjustment.( low speed jet ) If you are sure everything is clean

 

Seat Low screw and then turn out 1.5 turns. Start motor. When it fires try to rev it. If it bogs and dies turn the low speed screw clockwise 1/8 -1/4 turn.

Try to start it again and repeat until engine runs for you. Adjust screw in until it no longer bogs when you give it throttle. Now put motor in gear and fine tune.(muffs are no good for this run motor in a tank)

 

Some omc carbs have small metered jets in the face of the carb which draw in air these are very small and may become plugged and have on occasion come loose and fallen out. This could be the case if you have tried everything and can't seem to get the carb set up. Though I don't see one in the pic.

You may also want to check your roller /cam follower. The roller sometimes gets sticky and will not turn eventually a flat spot will develop on the back of it. This does not cause your flooding issue per se but effects the idle speed causing the motor to stall (motor won't troll for the fisherman) then most people start to monkey with the mixture screw to combat the issue.

 

 

 

Les

Edited March 28, 2014 by LesCulpJr

[Fisherman]

Low speed jet controls amount of fuel. Highspeed controls air.

 

 

 

 

Oh.. must be a frugal motor to use such small amounts of air.

Edited March 28, 2014 by Fisherman

[LesCulpJr]

Sorry for the confusing first post. Your pic and parts list is attached.

This is a bit of an odd carb for an OMC.