tomO Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Ok I know this has been covered before, I've got a small crack on a rib( If thats what you call it)that runs the length of the boat on the out side of the hull on the bottom several years ago I jb welded it and it lasted several years but it's leaking again. I was going to grind off the jb weld and want to patch it but not sure how too. The rib is rounded and would need some thing flexible to mold around it i've seen some things about patching with fiber glass. I know the proper thing to do would probably be to pull the floor and foam and weld it but the crack is only about half too 3 quarters of an inch long and hasn't gotten any bigger. The jon boat is 40 years old so I'm not worried about the looks. Any ideas thx. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 (edited) You patch your aluminum boat with fiberglass and I'll go screw a piece of aluminum to someones fiberglass hull!! Tracker? Stop drill the crack ends.. beyond what you can see presently. Then make a patch to drill, seal and rivet to the hull... similar to this one on a.. god no.. Grumman . Edited March 20, 2012 by irishfield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIFTER_016 Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 What ^^^^ said. Drill 1/8" hole at each end of the crack to stop it from spreading, fashion a patch to fit over the area (with a decent amount of overlap (1/2" or so)), use a goodly amount of 3M 4200 or 5200 (slow cure, fast cure) and apply the patch. Fasten with rivets and allow sealer to cure. It will not leak again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 I refuse to pay $20 for a tube of sealer... Sikaflex 1A in Limestone or Gray.. under $7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomO Posted March 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Ok thx but the area that needs patching is rounded and raised up off the main hull so a rigid patch won't work. It';s not a tracker its a beater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Field Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 There is always the option of using the epoxy made for this purpose. It used to be sold at CT. Clean the area then heat the area with a propane torch, then melt the epoxy with the torch and allow it to settle in the crack. Drifter 16's solution is likely better than my cheap solution, because he has more knowledge of boats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grt1 Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 a couple years ago i got a pair of 14 boats that were in rough shape. I got some of the green stick epoxy from cabelas and did every rivet with it. those boats have been cached for over 5 years now and only a couple minor leaks appeared. If you got the green stick and filled the holes with it you might get away with a cheap fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIFTER_016 Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Ok thx but the area that needs patching is rounded and raised up off the main hull so a rigid patch won't work. It';s not a tracker its a beater. Just form a piece of aluminum to fit the area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomO Posted March 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Ok got some thinner aluminum might have to double it up and some sika gray and quarter inch rivets . Gonna try and scrape off the jb weld and start forming the metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey buoy Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 The advice given is probably your best bet,my gruman canoe took a hit from a tree and I bought this aluminum compound I'll call it,can't remember the name,but rolled in your hand ,almost a putty, stuffed it into the cracks and leaking areas,not one leak. That was three years ago and you can sand it down. It was a tube and bought it at a local hardware Robinsons,and they swear by it. Never leaked a drop.Great stuff.If your interested pm me and I'll drop by tomorrow and give you the name.Great stuff,easy to apply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomO Posted March 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 I've got the jb weld cleaned up and the metal formed the only rivets I can find are regular ones, I assume I can seal them off when I'm through? No one in the area has the solid rivets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomO Posted March 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Can I seal the rivets with the sika? thxs again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIFTER_016 Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 I've got the jb weld cleaned up and the metal formed the only rivets I can find are regular ones, I assume I can seal them off when I'm through? No one in the area has the solid rivets. Give me your address and I can send you some closed end blind rivets if you like. The pin does not go all the way through them. I have these in stainless steel. Sealed Blind Rivets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomO Posted March 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Thx drifter but I live in Ohio and that would probably be costly let me do some more checking thx so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIFTER_016 Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Thx drifter but I live in Ohio and that would probably be costly let me do some more checking thx so much. Nothing more than an envelope and a stamp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomO Posted March 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 I'm still checking, the stainless steel doesn't react with the aluminum? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bass Tard Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Using just an epoxy on a crack in your hull is asking for the crack to come back, get worse. The glue itself has nothing to hold it together, or keep it from popping off. I had a similar problem on my Bass Tracker (wich apparently people don't like) when I bought it, there was a tear in the aluminum so to speak, that was right on the the corner of the hull so a straight patch like the ones posted above wouldn't do. I built carbon fiber/fiberglass boats for over 5 years, so to me the solution was obvious. I cut a peice of glass bigger than the slit in the hull, marked it, sanded inside of it with some 80 grit paper, and layed the glass on with this epoxy: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4882 The patch has been on there for over three years now, I do 35mph on the water and I'm not gentel on it, and there's not leaks at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aplumma Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Here is the secret I have as far as any hardware you can dream up and need...http://www.mcmaster.com Art Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomO Posted March 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 ok thx all I.ve found some rivets. Do I need to rough up or sand the paint off the metal before applying the sika? I can't see where is says to on the tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIFTER_016 Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 ok thx all I.ve found some rivets. Do I need to rough up or sand the paint off the metal before applying the sika? I can't see where is says to on the tube. I would scuff it up with some fine sandpaper to get the best bond. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F7Firecat Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 Always sand the substrate when your doing something like this, aluminum will develop a chalk on the surface that will inhibit a good bond if you dont sand it well. Just so you know Sika does make a primer for their polyurethane 1a sealant, never hurts to use a primer. Sika Flex products are very good products IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomO Posted March 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 Ok got the patch on this morning, I'll let it bake in the sun for a couple days, I'll take it out on the river next week and see if I end up on the bottom. Thx to all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIFTER_016 Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 Ok got the patch on this morning, I'll let it bake in the sun for a couple days, I'll take it out on the river next week and see if I end up on the bottom. Thx to all. Don't forget your water wings just in case!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aplumma Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 If it does start to leak you can open a box of jello and pour it on the crack. While it will not stop the leak it will give you time to get to shore because "there is always time for Jello." Art Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomO Posted March 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 Well I took the old boat out today and it didn't leak a drop. Thx to all that helped out. The boat is 41 years old and not one rivet leaks amazes me but then again I'm easily amazed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now