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drop shotting newbie


mattybculp

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hello everyone i have decided this year to really try out out dropshotting for some bass and eyes . i have read many articles and watched coutless videos but i have a couple real basic questions to ask and they maybe stupid questions but i figure if i have that question maybe somebody else does aswell thus not making it to stupid of a question . I understand the general pricipals behind drop shotting but my questions are as follows.

 

 

#1 do you have a swivel or something that connects your mainline to your drop shot line and your bait line ?

 

#2 if so how much line do you have on your bait line . A couple inches or feet( i guess that one could be up for debate .)

 

#3 do these two lines not get tangled easily with each other? techniques not to get tangled ( besides casting)

 

#4 Any iformation would be great .

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Not sure I fully understand your question but what I do is tie my hook using a palomer knot (which keeps my hook at a 90 degree angle from my line) and leave the tag end of the line the desired length I want for my presentation off the bottom. Then I simply tie my weight (which can be a heavy jig) to that tag end. I don't use any swivels. What you've described kind of sounds like a 3-way rig where your main line is tied to a 3 way, you have a 2-3' dropper off that which has a weight or jig, and then a separate line, typically longer, that is fished with a floating jig or crawler. That set-up is used on many rivers where you have current keeping your longer floater at the right depth.

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It sounds like you might be getting a dropshot confused with a carolina rig? Your mainline should be attached to your leader (only if using braid as your mainline) using your choice of a line/leader knot (such as a surgeons or uni-uni) or a swivel (smallest swivel you feel comfortable using). On your leader, you tie a hook on with a palomar knot, passing the tag end back through the eye of the hook so as to make it stand straight out. Tie the hook on so it will be at the desired depth when your weight is tied on. Your weight should be the last thing to go on, at the end of your leader. if you don't like the distance from hook to weight (distance the hook will be from bottom), you can move the weight up or down the line. The new dropshot weights make this super easy with the line tie. Just tie an overhand knot on the line and wedge the line tie above it.

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i run straight 8lb flouro on a spinning rod. using braid with a leader, either tied together or with a swivel just adds more knots and places of weakness in the line.

 

tie ur hook on with a palomar knot, leave about 24 inches of tag end, that way u have lots of room for adjusting the distance of ur lead depending on how close or far off the bottom u wanna be.

 

i use a 6'10 inch medium power rod with an extra fast tip. baits vary depending on what u like to use, but i highly recommend strike zone slammers made by mark kulik, they are just an amazing bait, that account for many of my bass in the year and what i put on when i need a kicker fishin in a tourney.

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I'm interested in what others may think about this and have been doing it for the past 2 years.

 

Using old stinger hooks; the one with the line, treble hook and small clip; that I'm sure we all have rusted in our ice-fishing boxes, I cut everything off. I then use the clip to attach to my drop shot hook and tie whatever length of line I need to it and add my weight.

 

That way, I can easily change up on the water without the need of constantly re-tieing. The hook also sits up well with the added weight.

 

...maybe I shouldn't have posted and designed and packaged these myself. :)

 

Cheers,

 

Paul

Edited by legacey
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1. Main line flouro (as light as you can get away with, provides for better action, or lack there of, to your bait) (Sunline SniperFC is the best i have used by a long shot)

2. a small steelhead swivel for general use, 2 or 3 feet above your bait, is not required, but will save your expensive flouro from MASSIVE twist issues.

3. a palomar knot to connect your hook with the tag end fed back through the eye towards your weight provides a nice 90 degree angle for the hook.

4. attach your weight to the bottom.

 

NOTES:

- you can play with different baits, hooks, and hooking sytle (nose hook, texas rig, threaded, etc...) depending on targeted species and conditions (open water, weeds, rocks, current, etc...)

- quick release weights are nice and easy to attach and move, but they do nick the line. if you can find ones that tie on they are better.

- round and pencil style weights are better in different situations. i prefer pencil style 90% of the time. don't waste your money on tungston for this application.

- play with the length of lead between your weight and your bait. keep in mind that if you are casting / dragging the rig that you will require a greater length of lead to achieve the right height your bait runs from the bottom.

- when ever possible try to fish the rig on a "semi-slack" line, and not a tight line. this allows your bait to sit seductively still with only slight current and movement required to provide life like action. if you know you are in the strike zone try to leave it dead still.

- watch your line, and have your finger on the line. some of the biggest fish will hit with the slightest tick.

- don't go for bone crushing hook sets. rather try sweeping hooksets across your body. this can move the bait 12 feet or more in one motion and with the light wire hooks i generally use they provide for very positive hook ups.

- if you are not getting bit, but are marking the fish and know they are there, keep changing up the baits, often this is key.

 

hope that helps. happy to answer any questions beyond this info.

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