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Posted

My boat is fiberglass construction, false floor, completely encapsulated seats. What I am trying to do is fasten a seat base to the first bench seat that is strong enough to carry a automotive seat, (van Captains chair with base removed), and me. I'm a large guy, so there is a lot of stress on the base. I was thinking of using toggel bolts and *PL premium* to fasten plywood to the top of the boat's seat and building from there. My concern with that is the load will be distributed over the small surface area of the toggels. Aproximatley 4 square inches. Once I have wood, I can do anything I need to. (Not meant as a brag, just my material of choice)

There is no way of getting to the interior of the seat to put plywood underneath.

I thank you in advance for your advice.

Posted

If your name holds up to it's reputation. I have an idea that you may be able to pull off. To gain access under the base to be able to secure it below. Is there room to cut out part of the false floor to make an access way. Then when you have the chair in place turn that hole into a storage compartment. Just a thought.

Posted
uhhh, there's prolly a reason they don't put automotive seating on boats. Weight, moisture retention, ferrous metals...

 

I personally would go with a marine grade seat with a bench seat base/adapter.

 

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/template...t21336&rid=

I ended up going with a seat base, cutting a hole in the seat, and attaching a presure treated peice of wood under to distribute the load. I will stick with the van seat for now. Three reasons:

1) $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ it was free and I am frugal

2) It is comfortable! :thumbsup_anim:

3) I store my boat indoors, so the moisture that will get into the seat beyond the silicone sealer should evaporate in time.

Posted (edited)
I ended up going with a seat base, cutting a hole in the seat, and attaching a presure treated peice of wood under to distribute the load. I will stick with the van seat for now. Three reasons:

1) $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ it was free and I am frugal

2) It is comfortable! :thumbsup_anim:

3) I store my boat indoors, so the moisture that will get into the seat beyond the silicone sealer should evaporate in time.

 

Frugality may not be an option when safety is a concern eh?

 

There's a reason for marine grade seating , and I think you found that out this weekend.

Edited by Greencoachdog
Posted

I had the exact same situation on a Bayliner - Trophy, and did what you already mentioned by using toggle bolts. You will have to drill a fairly large hole to accomodate the toggle. I had the boat for another two years before I sold it for my Lund, and for that time I had no problems. I figured that if a toggle would ever need replacing I would cut off the screw, and push it in and replace it with another Toggle bolt. I never had to do this but that was the plan. I had those quick release swivel seat bases, four toggle bolts per seat.

Posted

If, ................if I decide to reinstall the seat it will be anchored to the floor of the boat and not exceed the gunnels as the center of gravity is far too high with the seat mounted up on top of the bench seat.

Posted (edited)
1) $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ it was free and I am frugal

 

How much is loss of life or injury worth?

 

Remember how you felt when Beans hit the water? How much would have worth to ya to feel the exact opposite?

 

Listen to Glen.......and I do not say that often :D

Edited by Whopper
Posted
If, ................if I decide to reinstall the seat it will be anchored to the floor of the boat and not exceed the gunnels as the center of gravity is far too high with the seat mounted up on top of the bench seat.

 

Pictures, I need to see pictures of this project :rolleyes:

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