Genetics, for the most part. The original strain of Salmon used in Lake Ontario was based on the Tule Fall Chinook, which is west coast race that runs the rivers in the fall, spawns and dies quickly. They have grey/white meat.
There are also strains in Lake Ontario Chinooks that have pinker meat. Cross breeding over the last 30 years probably has produced characteristics from either race, so some Chinooks have white meat and some have pink meat. Diet also plays an important part for coloring the meat in the non-Tule strains, so more invertebrates or sticklebacks with lots of keratin in them will improve the color of the meat.
Also, the longer they are in the river the lighter the meat seems to get.