jace

I only get offshore tech support when i call during off hours. ...so i try to call during normal daytime hours and it generally works. I'll get somebody who's obviously strong in english or french if i call before the early evening. For a while, most call centers were outsourced to companies in Que, i don't know if it's still true. There were times back a few years ago when I had to call after getting home at 12am or 4am, and i always got an east indian person. I don't waste my time doing that anymore. As a few of you said, I don't think they know anything beyond the scripted checklist they're given on the screen. Another thing i've noticed now is they don't bother running through the script with me at all anymore. I blew up at them a few times going through their ridiculous routines so i think there must be some extra CSR comments on my account. hehe give it a try. .

they all have it except the uncolored white gel spun lines (the natural color of PE fiber). I would say "Original" spiderwire is pretty light on the waxy teflon coating also. it all wipes off pretty easy anyways so you should pick a line that works for you rather than going by which one leaves the least marks.

The ceramic replacement pawls are smoother than the stock metal ones...look for them. Mike's reel repair on the west coast sells them through mail and on ebay. sticking on the sides is a sure sign of a worn pawl. If this is a fairly new reel, it might be from not cleaning the reel enough or not enough lube. Dirt gradually gets pushed to the ends of the worm gear where it grinds away at the pawl and that will wear it out on any reel pretty fast.

I'll let you know after i fire up the microscope. haha. easy on the resizing, next time.

Looks like a Pflueger. they use felt drag material. If you like using the reel in the cold, you might want to upgrade it with wet carbon based drag. Looks like you had a great day. You're pretty tough to fish that day because it was obviously so cold you froze your face off.

If you have a gps, load up the maps and poi's of the park before you get down there.

I know a few people west of you who are doing just that. 2 of them have setups that can lived in all year. One built a cabin with loft out of beatle kill, he's off the grid and water table is too deep so that's hauled in. For power, he's got a battery bank in a shed with solar panels and generators. Lighting inside is all propane, heats and cooks on a huge wood cookstove with a water tank brought in from Pennsylvania somewhere. Most electrical things are low voltage but there's also an inverter for power tools and small kitchen appliances. It's a beautiful cabin with a huge garden, green house, and a sauna. ..and in the summers, he walks around with no shirt, shorts and a big magnum revolver at his side. interesting sight to say the least. Another person with a similar setup that used to be off the grid, and had a similar setup but has paid to run a line down to the cabin. too much work. ahah. They use on-demand water heaters. ...and one couple has satellite tv for those long winter days They live in their cabin/homestead all year. It's definitely not an easy project. I've known these for over 10-15 years and it took a good part of that for them to get the cabins to where they are now. obviously working at it only on weekends, but I'm sure it's a rewarding endeavor if that's the life you choose.

It is very possible. If you have the money, you can buy 50+ amp (6000w+) power inverters which provide more than enough to run the average house including everything in it except maybe kitchen stoves and elecric dryers. The only thing you need to watch for when buying one is getting a high quality one that has proper sine wave power output. Cheap inverters are okay for general power needs but they're hard on electronic devices because the power is not conditioned.

same here. I tried this one a while ago. The yellow box hybrid is supposed to be more flexible but I found it just as hard and crunchy feeling as any other FC line on the market at the time. I think i paid $12-15 for this roll....still have 1/2 left.

If you live in a city with a canada computers location, they have Sanyo eneloops on sale now. they are the same type of rechargable battery that come precharged in the package and holds a charge when not on the charger. $29 for 4D, 4C, 4AA, 2AAA, plus charger 14 batteries total, fairly high mAh output.

the ball size you need depends on the length of the arm or arm combinations you choose and the size and/or weight of the device you're mounting. All i can suggest is that you spend a little more to get the aluminum components. Most RAM products (bases, arms, mounting plates) are available in plastic and aluminum. As far as I know, cradles for the small device are only available in plastic. And whatever you choose, make it universal for everything you plan to mount this way. If you think you'll end up with heavier devices, go for a bigger balls, even on your small devices, this way you don't go through the hassle of changing mounts and using ball size adaptors later.

I have a few friends with the newer touchscreen garmins and the 2 main disappoints are battery life which can be less than 1/2 that of your average gps (about 20'ish hours is average), and the other is the satellite lock doens't seem to be solid ... There's a bit more drift than they expected and the reason for this might be those garmins use the H reciever found in the newer etrex and and all the other newer handhelds. I heard SiRF (the company) was having problems so garmin stopped using the SiRFstar receiver used in their flagship 60 and 76 cx/csx models. Since then, garmin started makng all of their own receiver chips and if you get a new 60/76 cx/csx now, you might get one with the H receiver instead of the SiRFstar III.

What a way to bring down the holiday season for the store owner. Fishing gear is big money these days, I hope there were cameras recording the robbery, otherwise, it'll all go down to insurance. There's very little chance any of it will be recovered unless they got a truckload. Most rods and reels don't have permanent serial numbers other than higher end rods and very high end reels so how do you make a claim on 1 or 2 of those if they pop up. I hope everything works out for him.

Haha. 40 replies and 40 different recommendations. that's fishing for you. I would say just keep using what you have if you liked it. That really bad tangle is from your thumb not being good enough. There are many triggers that tell the thumb it should come down to tame the spool and you'll eventually get to know more of the signs. That's not to say overruns will never happen, but they will never be that bad once you get the hang of it. In particular, the line sounds will get your thumb down long before the knot gets that bad. If you want to make i easier though, a heavier line will help, but only because you can rip out more tangles without snapping it, not that it will necessarily reduce the number of bad casts.

there are some package deals out there that will include some mapping but the majority only come with the major road systems, no POI's , and low or no street level detail. yes, each map type is sold as a separate add-on. Most street and topo are sold as continental regions or entire countries with the exception of a few very highly detailed packages, meanwhile, most maps of water cover very small regions so you would need to buy several to fish across the country. I would say you're looking at $500 for gps + road map + water maps if you don't wander too far from home. topo is the cheap way to go for basic mapping but it's not the same function/features as street level or marine cartography . garmin handhelds will talk if you hook it up to a laptop and navigate/route that way unless you're on water.

looks good to me. As far as I know, it started in surf rods where they casts a few hundred yards and it's supposed to get better distance for softer lines and braids. I also know the fuji lowrider setups have the stripper mounted backwards for the same reason. There are plenty of custom rods built this way as well as factory rods from european makers. I don't know if this is the basis of that particular MegaBass rod's design, but i'd put money on it. It won't be long before you see this in factory rods over here. Just like the rods in the StCroix Mojo post...I first saw rods almost exactly like them quite a few years ago on the custom scene, and the first Cumara style split seat I saw was when a friend hacked up a PacBay casting seat to trim weight and expose more blank. It's nearly identical to what you see on the Cumaras.

clerical and typographical errors will not be upheld in a court. so i'm thinking this is not looking good iff the itemization of options appears exactly as you posted on the copy you both have, listing 1000 and 300. then totalling 300. you might lose becasue it looks like a clerical error. If it was included, it would list it as an option costing $0 or waived and included on the billing to show it was part of the transaction. It looks to me like you have nothing showing the 1000 item was to be included free of charge.

I can't imagine any legitimate online business these days using only cash transfers as their only way of payment. This almost certainly is a scam.

I would still recommend these at that price range. The C series reels are the de facto standard reel for trolling the big 50-75# west coast kings and also the big 100# cats in the southern states. When you go from BC and all up through alaska, you will see the C3 and C4 more than any other casting reel. There's a reason these models have been around longer than most other reels, furthermore, they're virtually unchanged from the earliest versions meaning there hasn't been much to improve on (the "new" carbon drag disc material, a thumb bar and what else?). I doubt there's another reel out there in this class that has a longer history with big fish.

When i was in school i always thought of my knowledge as a having finite quantity, so anything new would naturally push out things i learned in the past. For that reason, i was always paranoid of doing too much between studying and the tests. ahaha. And after each final i reached for the purge handle to free up memory slots.

I would bunch up the millionaire S and Classic's in with the ABU C series reels, the shimano corsairs belong in this group too. There's nothing refined about any of them but they work well and you'll be equally happy with any of them. If you do go with the C3 or C4, the only differences between them are the gear ratios and the C4 has an extra bearing in the levelwind which will help it smooth out. When a reel goes past 5 ball bearings or so, they're put in places to make it feel smoother when you're reeling in but they won't make the reel cast better. More isn't always better but I think it makes a difference when you're comparing reels of equal build quality. It's most noticable when you're winding under a bit of a load. The C3 has slower gears, the C4 has a higher ratio for faster retrieves. For winding in hard pulling lures, you might want a slower reel and for fast topwater lures, you'll need a faster reel. relating to another comment above.. The Daiwa Luna replaced the Millionaire CV-Z and the StCroix Avid casting reel is a reworked and rebranded version of the older Daiwa Millionaire CV-X (the CV-X preceeded the CV-Z). All 3 are all machined aluminum frame and sides. no forging or stamping.

How about having a phone in an emergency during a power outage or internet service interruption? that's the main reason i will not go with any kind of VOIP as it is today. ...besides that, i have a cell, but that's not the point. Good old land lines have never been down anywhere i've lived in my lifetime that i know of

I also fought a tough battle with this disease and went through all kinds of gear in a very short time. One friend had the worst GAS i know of with photo albums of the guitars and amps he's owned, mostly high end and limited/hard to find items. Lessons? My amp has a dial setting for skill level that goes from 1 - 10.

I have to agree with other comments on this list being a little weird. I'd like to know when this poll was taken and the kind of fishermen that make up the membership in their legacy program. The question sounds like it's asking for products with the most impact which to me means revolutionary impact. That list is mostly simple evolutionary changes in my opinion. For example, spring loading the bobber attachment doesn't really change anything about a bobber or how it's fished. If that list was made this year, I would scratch 1/2 the items given and add downrigger/divers, graphite rods, gps, gel spun line, polarized lenses, circle hooks, and maybe vhf radio and cell phones if you're into big water or coastal fishing. I don't know who came up with some of these so i didn't name the specific products that first brought the things to market.

if you don't want to put any money into it, the engine obviously got good compression and ran the whole time you had it so you might just put the plug back in if you can find the thread/path it turned out on. taping for a helicoil is the proper fix, but you might also luck out and find a used replacement head somewhere.