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Chris Heinrich

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  1. Brought back a lot of good memories. As kids we could not wait for spring to hone our fishing skills battling 20 lb+ carp at Cootes Paradise in Hamilton Ontario. Preparing corn meal balls and getting all our old tackle together, as we knew we would lose line, sinkers, and sometimes rods. Those were fun days and yes Carp was a fun fish to catch.
  2. Sinker...If you paint the boat yourself that's one thing. If you paint it for a paying customer and not done properly that's a whole different ball game. I have seen some very unfortunate people asking me to re-do paint jobs that they initially paid big bucks for. Like I said, I try to stay away from painting if I can and source them out to my contacts. I'm not saying not to paint. I'm trying to say be careful do your homework, ensure the shop is reputable and will warranty their work. We have done paint on boats where we have had to repair damage, which meant painting after the repair was done and then replace the decals such as Legend Boats. Yamaha PWC's which have that new light weight NanoexCell body is painted. When we repair the damage to the hull or sides, and we have done a lot lately( because no one else wants to touch them) we have to repaint them. Again, a very expensive job as we use a three part Yamaha OEM paint made by colorite out of the U.S. very durable and specific to ensure adherence to the plastic body and the abuse these wave runners get. We use the same vinyl flooring that Lund Boats use. Can be purchased from any Lund dealer. I'm sure there are others, however we have found it to be durable and nice to work with. A high premium outdoor floor adhesive should suffice however you mentioned aluminum plate flooring. I have never worked with aluminum floors, only wood and fiberglass. So that may be something you want to look into as far as vinyl to aluminum adhesion goes. I do not know anything about that. Wood would be much easier to work with, easier on the feet. Coated properly with fiberglass resin would give you those 20 years again and much cheaper? Also, if the transom is wood, coated and sealed properly, will give you years of no problems. few of pics of different floor and transom repairs may give DIY's some ideas.
  3. I tend to stay away from painting boats. Guys do use "all grip paint" which is marine boat paint and tends to work pretty good but it is very expensive and the application has to be just right or you will get eventual peeling. We did a 1960 18 foot aluminum boat the man wanted converted into a semi-bass boat with a casting deck, new floor, repainted boat and engine. We used All wheels body shop in Stoney Creek to paint the boat, and we did the motor. Jeff really knows what he is doing and did a great job on this wreck of a boat, and he is very reasonable. Here are some pics that gives you an idea of some of the build, and some inspiration that yes you can make an old boat into something new again.We took all the floatation foam out and replaced it. Totally soaked and probably added an additional 300 lbs to the boat. The customer could not believe how fast his boat was after the build. So bottom line is that a build like that is very time consuming and expensive. Knowing how expensive a complete make over would be we did try to talk the individual into just finding a newer boat. The customer insisted he wanted it done. He claimed the boat was his fathers, then his, and once finished would give it to his son as a surprise present and keep it in the family. That's exactly what happened, He took the boat home and put it in the garage. he called his son to the garage. The son broke into tears when he saw it, and they were thrilled using it for 6 months when unfortunately the father suddenly passed away. The son has the boat, loves fishing with it, and it represents a near and dear "forever" reminder of his Dad.
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