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All of the information provided has been very helpful in me thinking through this entire process on top of helping with the selection of the right shop to complete this work (I am not equipment nor have the time to do this). I want to thank everyone very much for sharing your experience and knowledge and look forward to more reading.

Hi Bill I am going to go with Marine Plywood, not sure about that Coosa board. Great Idea about the lund FB page, they actually have a restoration page I going to read through and see what I can dig up. thanks

Thanks Ohio Fisherman, I had read a few of those posts and it's interesting that there are a lot of comments indicating that the foam right up against the transom is a big part of the issue. So if the foam gets removed to access the bolts it may make sense not to replace it as this may help eliminate the issue with any water sitting in there against the new transom and not making its way to the bottom and the bilge . I have not been able to see any discussions on the gunnel issue and access so when the new transom is built it slips in there as one big piece. Do you think that the small area on each side below the gunnel would form any type of structural issue if the transom wasn't all one piece?

Hi Everyone, I am hoping I can draw on all the experience on this board regarding the transom replacement on my boat. I have received several quotes and have a couple of varying approach's and I want to make sure this is done 100% correct with no fear of issues down the road as I have never in my life had to get this completed before. This boat has a slight downward piece on the gunnel where the transom meets the top. - should this angle piece be cut back and then welded back up so the replacement transom is in one solid piece or is it ok to have a piece slipped up in this space and then the bottom section all one piece? - is it normal practice to cut additional holes in the back section for access to the bolts & nuts, if this is completed should this area be re-foamed with permanent access lids similar to those black circle ones on all of our boats. I would be happy to send any pictures along to anyone or even better exchange numbers and talk through this if possible, not knowing can be scary and I just want to be as educated as i can and the web only helps so much. Really appreciate any and all feedback from the experts out there.

Would you happen to have the link on this promotion? I have been searching the web for it and no luck finding it. Thank you

Hi Gang with 3 new trolling batteries in the boat this year I wanted to get your opinion. Have a minnkota charger hooked up and the garage is not heated. Is it better to take them out and keep them warm on a charger or leave them in the boat with the charger connected and on. Thanks in advance for the replies.

Hey Blue LK who makes those guides and any idea of a store that sells them. Old Ironmaker, I know John, great idea, no worries I have his number. A lot of great idea's and suggestions everyone the input is great, I will try, try, try again and then go see Big Cliff LOL.

Thanks everyone so far, Big Cliff your offer is very generous and thankyou. It's a little bit of a hike for me for a day trip as well but I will certainly connect up with you as I get up your way every now and then so I hope that is ok. As for electric units I agree these seem to be the quick cure and produce a good sharp chain, however i am still going to chase down that old file technique and it may need to wait for a visit with Big Cliff.

Hi folks, So I have watched a bunch of youtube videos, researched a varirty of electric and hand/file techniques, bought a few guides and files and tried my technique on a variety of chains and for whatever reason I can't seem to produce a sharpened chain that cuts like butter. I know there is a technique to this but I obviously need help, anyone out there with some old school techniques, ideas, approaches to this that is bullet proof? I am even willing to sharpen anyones chains and put in some time on this for the experince. Not that I can't find someone and pay them 10-15 bucks to do it, I just want to learn it and do it myself. Thanks for any thoughts and guideance.

All great info and responses, this has been the worst thing in the world to research and certainly everyone has great opinions and information to help a guy make the right choice. I know I have certainly benefited from this thread and hope others have as well. So when I get that 17 on the boat and I am water testing on Temagami next week I will be sure to update everyone on the performance/pro's and cons...I have decided on the Solas Rubex, has the rubber hub to reduce shift clunk and the reports looks decent. Wish me luck.

Great comments and feedback everyone, I agree that with you that with a 17" my hole shot won't be as good but my top end and RPM will be where in the right zone, the 19" will certainly give me the same punch I am used to out of the hole but may continue to operate at the same RPM I am seeing now. I think I am going to give the 17 a try and see how it goes, most trips I am not carrying a full load and full fuel tank, reduced weight should give me what I want, I also can put the SS back on for those days I need to tackle some other water sports, it has and does perform well.

Thanks Bill, is the difference between hole shot very noticable when running with the 17". Would either prop perform differently when trolling in LO for salmon? I guess my question is does one troll down better speed wise than the other? I understand getting closer to 6000 RPM at the top end is the ultimate goal. Thanks for the info.

Hello Everyone, looking to draw on your experience regarding the right propeller for a Yamaha F150 motor, motor is mounted on a Lund 1800 Fisherman. Motor currently has a 141/4 x 18 SS 3 blade propeller, I want to put on an aluminum propeller for those shallow and rocky northern lakes (a just in case moment), read all kinds of advice between a 17 or 19 pitch for optimum performance and WOT to 6000 RPM, certainly someone on this board has been through this with this package and can provide first hand knowledge. I figure total weight with 2 guys, gear and full tank of fuel I am around 2500 Lbs, I beleive I hit about 5400 RPM with the current propeller. So is a 17 or 19, your experience, knowledge is very much appreciated. Thanks Folks

I was looking at one of these also, price is right and mine just died also. let me know what you think of it. is the unit waterproof? good deal this week at crappy tire!

Hey folks, I have a black 1800 Lund Fisherman and it has several spots on the sides with some dock rash. It really isn't to bad and not through the paint and was hoping to clean it up. Just looking for some suggestions from you on approach, type of compound and any does and donts when doing this. Much appreciated as always.

hey folks, I have a new to me 1800 fisherman with a EZ Load Bunk trailer, I want to put some load guides on the trailer and looking for some advice on the length of these. Any current owners out there that have experience with these, should I be looking at the 2, 3 or 4 footers? Thanks everyone

thanks for the feedback folks, Roy quick question the motor has a bracket, so when you raise it all the way up you can drop the bracket and then lower the motor down on it, factory thing. I guess 2 things, is this good enough and do you think its safe having the motor sticking out so much. I guess the purpose of this to distribute the motor weight directly over the transom and then the bracket takes the pressure off the hydraulics? If this is not a proper way to do it do you suggest a saver that bolts the frame of the trailer and connects to the bottom of the motor so you are traveling with the motor down?

Hey folks, So I finally found and purchased my Lund 1800 Fisherman with the 150 yamaha, I have a couple of quick questions. Load Guides for the trailer, currently doesnt have any and I was wondering if anyone out there has them on a Lund Fisherman set up and if so should I get the 2, 3 or 4 footers? Sorry trailer is a EZ Load, bunk style. Transom saver, should I be using one while trailering the boat? any recommendations if so on make or style. Thanks

So the new/used boat search begins, I have looked hard at all available brands and power and have read many, many posts on the board so thankyou everyone. So my choice is as follows in no particular order Lund 1700 Fisherman with min 115 Hp yamaha Lund 1800 Fisherman with min 150 Hp yamaha Lund 1700 Pro Sport with min 115 Hp yamaha. As most sellers want a strong commitment ie. deposit to water test, I was hoping there may be someone on the board that owns one of the above and would consider taking a guy out so I could see one in operation and get a better feal for the boats to narrow down the decision. Similar boats but I am sure all respond different on the water. I would be more than happy to through anyone a few bucks for gas, the effort would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

Tom we just got back from the area and fished it all, drop me a PM and we can go over a few details that may help you out.

Hey bucktail you need a new pic, that pike is getting old, maybe this week will produce a new quality photo

My winter project will be getting a unit mounted up front with the bow mount trolling motor so I can see what the heck is going on when working from the front of the boat. I have a lowrance LMS332C as my main unit - can the LMS unit be networked to a unit at the front - if so what do I need to do besides running a network and power cable? - is there anything special about the network cable or any special hookups - any suggestions for a front unit, better yet anyone have one that will work for this application? Thanks All

Whats your preferred method and with that said whats your preferred set up. Do you use a stiff heavy long rod and set the clicker on your line counter back so any hit trickers from the reel? Do you use a softer tip rod for dipseys, set the drag tighter and rely on watching the rod for a strike indication? Is it a combination of both above and if so what is the preferred rod for 0 or #1 dispseys. Using the Accudepths 17 and 27's at this time. thanks

hey guys, finishing up a basement reno and almost done, have the hallway/stairs laminte to install then carpet (which is ordered and in) I am wondering if any board member in the area of Hamilton has some experince working with laminate and wants to make a few bucks. Finish the basement, wife is happy and I get to go fishing, grounded until complete!!! Drop me a note.